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'89 turbo--Europroducts chips vs. Autothority

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Old 06-24-2002, 10:41 PM
  #16  
tazman
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The LBE is better because it dosen't let any air to the waste gate until it reaches your set limit. The jet for the banjo bolt that Authority supplies just restricts the air a little. If you plan to do more mods down the road you might want to go straight to a MBC or an electronic boost controller.
Old 06-25-2002, 11:33 AM
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lou951
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Brian, if you do not have an LBE, use the banjo bolt. They basically do the same thing except for the fact that the LBE is adjustable.
Toddk911, in reality, I'm probably making more but I like to be conservative. The dyno numbers were actually from when I ran an LBE and 15 psi. I probably make more power now. I still run a stock K26 turbo so it probably has reached it's limits. I will, in the future, upgrade to a larger ball bearing turbo and electronic boost controll.
Old 06-25-2002, 07:35 PM
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toddk911
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Sounds good Lou. I am running chips 15psi and LBE now and thought I was making about 260 at the wheels so it was a little shocking.

How did you air/fuel look during the dnyo runs?

Also, I have read that shimming adds about 2-3 psi and cat bypass regains about 1-2 psi. Does this mean after this is done, I would have about 3-5 more psi? That means I would be up to 18---20psi???? I take it the LBE would have to be turned down?
Old 07-02-2002, 11:11 AM
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lou951
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Toddk911, my A/F ratio is good to actually rich where it should be. I don't have experience w/ shimming as I replaced my wastegate to a dual port so that I can adjust it anyway. From what I understand you could be right but you'd be safer if you ran an additional boost gauge that reads beyond 20psi. That way you know whats going on and you can adjust accordingly. I currently run a 35 psi Autometer gauge along w/ an Air/Fuel ratio gauge for safe monitoring. What I did notice was that the LBE is not that acurate when you turn up or down. According to the manual one turn equals 1 psi, but after I installed the boost gauge, it actually equals 1.5psi per turn. Just be careful how you adjust. I used the LBE with great results but I switched to a dual port wastegate w/ a manual boost controller for better tuning and control.
Old 07-02-2002, 07:24 PM
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Thanks Lou. Yea, I just got my aftermarket boost gauge and air/fuel gauge. I'll be sure to hook those up before any more mods or tweaking.

Anyone have any indside tips or info that can save me time hooking up the bost and air/fuel gauges?
Old 07-03-2002, 03:55 AM
  #21  
Danno
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'What I did notice was that the LBE is not that acurate when you turn up or down. According to the manual one turn equals 1 psi, but after I installed the boost gauge, it actually equals 1.5psi per turn."

This depends upon the strength of your wastegate spring and diaphram diameter as well. I think the LBE adjustment was calibrated for a stock wastegate. Even then, the adjustment increment will still be different between two stock wastegates depending upon the condition of the spring.

"Anyone have any indside tips or info that can save me time hooking up the bost and air/fuel gauges?"

This can all be done inside the car at the passenger footwell. The boost gauge can be run off a Tee from the clear hard plastic boost-sensing line that goes to the KLR computer. Make sure you use a hard plastic line to your boost gauge as well.

Also check out the ARM-1 air-fuel gauge installation instruction I have on my <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/951_racerx" target="_blank">951 RacerX website</a>.
Old 07-03-2002, 03:59 AM
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Danno
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EDIT: WHoops, duplicate post removed...



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