To clutch or not to clutch? What say you?
03-09-2011, 04:08 PM
#32
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ok ok I will call him tomorrow when I get my parts off to UPS to give him the tracking number, and I will get the nitty-gritty details. He said over the phone he will recondition everything and it will be no different than the new unit. I took that to mean that anything that can be inspected and replaced if needed, would be. I'll get deeper details tomorrow.
03-09-2011, 04:16 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Not sure on the engine output but I am not the only one that has found Kevlar to be troublesome in the past. They get hot and slip but then go back to normal once cooled down. At least that happened to me a couple of times and then read about the same for others. This was with a 3L motor though so perhaps more torque? It was a Blaszak clutch kit.
ps I've got a couple of the SB fer/org clutches down here with one of their PPs. Not sure whether to use their PP or a KEP 2 though. Any guesses people?
ps I've got a couple of the SB fer/org clutches down here with one of their PPs. Not sure whether to use their PP or a KEP 2 though. Any guesses people?
03-09-2011, 04:19 PM
#34
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Well... I'm hardly an authority on the subject - all I have is what John @ SB told me. His claim is that with their kevlar disc I should be able to basically beat the daylights out of it and never have an issue. I told him the same thing I said in the start of this post - lots of autocrosses which means lots of slipping it with aggressive starts, a wife that can't rev-match, etc. He said it should be no problem. Though, my car is also mostly stock... that could contribute to the abuse-ability of their Kevlar disc.
*shrug* YMMV.
*shrug* YMMV.
03-09-2011, 04:42 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
Didn't want to deter you, just give you my findings. Interestingly when mine slipped a couple of times it wasn't off the line, but just driving along (quickly) and probably after changing into 3rd from memory.
03-10-2011, 04:48 PM
#36
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Ok so according to John @ SB - their rebuild includes a complete teardown and disassembly of all components. All new hardware... rivets, springs, etc. and lining.
03-10-2011, 09:23 PM
#38
Three Wheelin'
03-10-2011, 09:30 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
03-10-2011, 09:35 PM
#40
Three Wheelin'
Man, I'm starting to wish the PO hadn't done the clutch... especially as I correct more and more of his mechanics "quick fixes." I shudder to think what kind of short cuts he took while doing the clutch.
03-14-2011, 02:32 PM
#43
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
Update:
Price is actually $175. He mis-quoted me earlier.
Does *not* include a new throwout bearing though. So add another $175 for that, which he cannot get so I need to order from Pelican/Lindsey.
Price is actually $175. He mis-quoted me earlier.
Does *not* include a new throwout bearing though. So add another $175 for that, which he cannot get so I need to order from Pelican/Lindsey.
03-14-2011, 06:41 PM
#44
Burning Brakes
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My info comes from actual experience, not heard or read or someone with 18000 posts recommends living in moms basement.
99% of 951 are completly overclutched.Fact.A Cup clutch WILL hold 400 whp all day, a Kep is not necessary by any means. The fault is created by vendors who recommend or sell the products. For example, there is absolutly not need to go to any full face Kevlar. Feramic or god forbid those stupid pucks for a street car, mix of organic/Kevlar etc will hold 500+ whp all day long with minimal pedal effort. How many 951 are putting that down? Lol, one or two.
I have used Spec Clutchmasters and SB and they all work equally well for their intended purposes as long you don't get talked into some clutch combo from he'll with zero driveability. BTW, I have blown all of the above set ups up because no clutch is bulletproof and launching especially Awd is brutal on the equipment and if the clutch holds something else is going to give.
Southbend uses the Sachs race cover, Spec / Clutchmaster use their own.
Last but least, the clutch is / was never a problem with Porsche cars...besides a couple of small issues on the whole Porsche already overclutches stock.
On a sidenote, I am in the middle of installing a twin disc clutchmaster in a 600+ whp Audi, I anxious to see how it holds up until it needs a rebuild.
99% of 951 are completly overclutched.Fact.A Cup clutch WILL hold 400 whp all day, a Kep is not necessary by any means. The fault is created by vendors who recommend or sell the products. For example, there is absolutly not need to go to any full face Kevlar. Feramic or god forbid those stupid pucks for a street car, mix of organic/Kevlar etc will hold 500+ whp all day long with minimal pedal effort. How many 951 are putting that down? Lol, one or two.
I have used Spec Clutchmasters and SB and they all work equally well for their intended purposes as long you don't get talked into some clutch combo from he'll with zero driveability. BTW, I have blown all of the above set ups up because no clutch is bulletproof and launching especially Awd is brutal on the equipment and if the clutch holds something else is going to give.
Southbend uses the Sachs race cover, Spec / Clutchmaster use their own.
Last but least, the clutch is / was never a problem with Porsche cars...besides a couple of small issues on the whole Porsche already overclutches stock.
On a sidenote, I am in the middle of installing a twin disc clutchmaster in a 600+ whp Audi, I anxious to see how it holds up until it needs a rebuild.