pete95zhn

Nice work, Chris! Definetely a part worth buying, at least if you're into removing your intake manifold several times each year...

How about pictures of FPR & damper?

Raceboy

This kind of injector fixating method has been used for some years on Nuke Performance billet fuel rails.

See this link and click on the photos to see them bigger: http://www.nukeperformance.com/prod01fuelrail.htm

Chris White

Hmmm….those ‘Nuke’ buys must be pretty clever!

BTW – I am going to figure out some costs this week to put a price tag on the rails and also a spate price on a ‘retro fit’ kit. The retro fit kit won’t be very expensive!

JohnKoaWood

Those crazy *** sweedes...

JohnKoaWood

Should I find myself using one of these in the future, I will likely find myself running sequential injection, external FPR (Synapse of Aeromotive) and NO damper (not really needed if fully upgrading the fuel system, as I may or may not be doing at some point.. nor can I confirm intent to use or not use a 044 pump, all AN fittings, braided lines, in line check valve, and more than one filter.. but then this is all theoretical.. or is it?)

YMMV

adrial

Chris,

It looks like it's a little tight to get an allen wrench on the cap screws with the injector in place?? Maybe it is just the angle of the photo...

DDP

I only see one problem with the fuel rail mount (I like the injector clips, though). When mounting the fuel rail legs, how do you get the orientation (360 degree possibility) of the fuel injector legs to torque them down? I could see it being an annoyance when you'd try to get them straight, torque them down and then not be able to insert the fuel rail because the legs aren't straight. It's not like you can insert the fuel rail to line it up, then tighten the bolts. Or is there something I'm missing? I guess you could use a straight edge to get it close.

I just don't understand what the issues are with the aftermarket fuel rails (besides the Lindsey 2 leg). I haven't had any issues with the good 4 leg aftermarket rail other than when the sun hits it just right with the hood up and it blinds me because it's polished....

JohnKoaWood

I dont see it so much as about having problems with one or another.. I see it as having options available..

I'm all about options, and having something not like everyone else!

Chris White

Its not to difficult to get the alignment right. My wise *** answer is that if you can’t bolt it on straight then step away from the motor…but thats just my wise *** answer! A more proper answer would be to use some lock tight on the pedestal to manifold mount, tighten it down and you can use the rail to ‘tweak’ the alignment. Since you will not have to remove the pedestals again (unless you are parting out the engine!) the locktite will set and the bolts will not loosen at all. (they can’t came out because they are trapped by the fuel rail). Once installed you won’t be wearing the aluminum threads on the intake manifold every time you remove the rail – the worn threads on the manifold are the #1 cause of fuel rail problems!

The only problems I have ever had with the various other billet designs is every time you pull the fuel rail off the injectors drop out and dump fuel over everything. Some of us play around with different injectors or just take the manifold off to modify things a lot – It gets tiring to have fuel dumped over the engine – especially if you are at the track making a quick mod in between session on a hot engine! The other issue is much less common (but much more serious) for ‘regular’ folks – the 16v manifolds do not have enough of a taper in the injector ports to stop an injector from moving down into the manifold. In fact if you push some injectors down and the O ring will go past the manifold inside lip (resulting in the upper O ring coming out of the rail and dumping the fuel)

BTW – don’t fret too much, my clips can be retrofitted to your rail and it too cease to dump its load on your engine!

Scott H

If you're really **** you could make a jig to mount the pedestals. Just take a piece of straight scrap metal (or hell, wood would probably work too) long enough to lay between the two pedestals, drill some holes in it then torque the pedestals down

DDP

My point isn't that someone couldn't get it aligned, it would just be a hassle. And when engineering a new product, any hassle seems silly when they could just be relieved from the side and be accessed easily. Maybe I'm just picky, but when I come across stuff like that it motivates me to come up with a better design. I don't mean to make a huge argument out of something this minuscule but I figured it was worth mentioning.

And without the clips holding the injectors in the rail, all I do is wiggle the injectors a bit and slowly work their way out. Only rarely does one pop out and this way is easier on the o-rings as to not tear them. Although, the clips would be a nice addition.

DDP

That sounds like something Porsche would do . Design something that needs a tool designed to work on it.

Chris White

There are actually several reasons it was designed the way it was.
First – the pedestal is being held in place by compression. This makes the aluminum pedestal and the bolt very strong structurally.
Second – its much easier to tighten the bolt since you get a direct shot at the Allen head – not an odd angled reach to try and tighten a critical fastener.
Third – it makes for a pedestal that can be easily trimmed for any length injector. One cut and a different bolt and you can mount any injector length.
Fourth – the design is based around making the pedestal permanent and the rail removable. Less wear and tear on the intake mounts and the bolts holding the rail to the pedestal and in a double shear arrangement – that is about as strong as you can get (the rail is not being held to the pedestal by threads, the locking nut is there just to hold the shaft of the bolt in place).
Fifth - the bolt that holds the pedestal to the manifold is completely captive once the rail is installed. If it ever came loose the bottom of the rail would keep it in place.

Alignment – its pretty easy – you can use the rail as a guide. Get the pedestals hand tight and lay the rail into the ‘cradle’ – that will align the mounts. Slip the rail back until the Allen head is exposed in the front mount (with the rail still partially engaged) and tighten that Allen head. Slip the rail forward and repeat for the rear pedestal. There, that wasn’t so bad was it? Now install the injectors in the rail and insert the through bolts.

In my opinion this is a whole lot easier than the long reach with either a flex head 10mm socket or a ball head Allen key that the stock or other aftermarket rails require…but that’s just my opinion!

So – for those of you that would like to upgrade their older billet rails with the injector retainers – I have made up some kits of retaining clips and fasteners - $30 for the set. All you need is to drill and tap your rail. If you want me to do that for you let me know and we can figure something out.

Chris@944enhancement.com

Chris White

Yeah – its the angle of the picture, you can get an Allen head key in there with out a problem. The retainers cannot be any longer as they would interfere with the pedestal mount on the other end (not in the photos!).

kevincnc

Very solid design, I like it- nice work