Need Advice: Engine Rebuild What Internal Mods needed for 400HP ??
#61
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Ok, ok, all you who say Stock Internals for 400rwhp is just fine (95ONE, sh944,Chris White,toddk911) let me ask you these questions....
What is the max HP for stock internals?
Where would you dare to go with your boost?
Maybe my goals are too low for the 2.5 Turbo. Should I be shooting higher with the modifications I am currently planning?
Thanks again for your input.
What is the max HP for stock internals?
Where would you dare to go with your boost?
Maybe my goals are too low for the 2.5 Turbo. Should I be shooting higher with the modifications I am currently planning?
Thanks again for your input.
#62
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Agree, but I'm trying to help a guy building a 2.5 and sharing my opinion. LR makes great products. No bashing here. You know how it feels to have lag coming out of a corner and it sucks not having power when you want it.
#63
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Thank you guys for your advice! I am reconsidering not installing the oil pan baffle kit or the rods at this point. I think I will put my money towards the items that will increase hp after the engine is put back together. I am now going to aim for 350hp and follow the advice you guys gave me. I really don't want that much lag. Thats not any fun. I will probably buy an alluminum flywheel and new clutch kit instead.
Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
#65
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Have you tried hammering the bit in? When they strip, it's usually because the bit slips out partially, and so the actual ridges don't strip all the way down...with a hammer you can some times get the bit in far enough to engage those last bits of metal and have one last chance at it.
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#67
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When tuning how do you know how much advance is "enough?" I've seen people say "advance it until you get knock then retard it a little," which seems kind of stupid to me. Is it one of those things that's ideally done on a dyno to see if more advance actually produces an increase in power?
I was feeling pretty good about the tune I had just finished and I asked him (he did a lot of turbo engine work) if he thought there was any more power to be made. His answer was “what’s your R&D budget?”. I replied that we could spend several more hours on the dyno if needed. He then replied that wasn’t the issue, if I really want to know what the full limit of the engine was I would have to be able to afford to break it – only then would I really know exactly what the limit was!
The ‘usual’ way to pick correct timing is to look for torque drop off – but if you do this at full power and high boost you will run in to detonation and unless you are very used to tuning and dynos you stand a pretty good chance of damaging your engine.
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Thank you guys for your advice! I am reconsidering not installing the oil pan baffle kit or the rods at this point. I think I will put my money towards the items that will increase hp after the engine is put back together. I am now going to aim for 350hp and follow the advice you guys gave me. I really don't want that much lag. Thats not any fun. I will probably buy an alluminum flywheel and new clutch kit instead.
Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
If you go with the aluminum flywheel make sure you get it balanced – and make sure that the reference sender triggers are installed!
Good choice on the 350rwhp target – you will like it! You don’t need a huge turbo to get there.
#69
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Chris/JD968- Yes I meant the pressure plate and yes I was using the tripple square bit not the four square ( I think I made that tool up). Thanks for the tip about hammering I just did not think I had to since the other 6 bolts came out pretty easy....I had my body weight leaning into it pretty hard but I guess that was not enough. They are in there pretty tight. I sprayed pb blaster, I cut a flathead notch in the top with a dremmel and tried twisting with a large flathead driver then hammering screwdriver into one side of the notch to loosen but ended up just pealing the top of the bolt in a counter-clockwise cirrcular motion LOL.
#71
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This is what you don't want on a 951 in terms of a power curve. This turbo is just TOO big. It's the Lindsey Super 75. I'm NOT saying it's a bad turbo, and this power curve might be the **** for the right guy, just not what I wanted in a street/DE/track setup. This car was very laggy out of the corners. The EVO's would catch me in the corners only to see my *** from 100+ yards on the back straight at Arroyo Seco. The lag sucked, but once on boost you did have a grin.
What boost/mods for that chart?
But look how linear that hp line is???
Oh, if it was laggy that means you were just in too high a gear George! lol
#72
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Dear Santa,
Please bring me an E85 station!!!!!
Thanks Santa!
#73
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They will be needed to get the most out of E85 (actually the EMS mods are needed just to get the engine running in E85)!
#75
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Unless I am missing something?