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Need Advice: Engine Rebuild What Internal Mods needed for 400HP ??

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Old 12-16-2010, 06:06 PM
  #61  
Adam Poland
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Originally Posted by Clown
Ok, ok, all you who say Stock Internals for 400rwhp is just fine (95ONE, sh944,Chris White,toddk911) let me ask you these questions....

What is the max HP for stock internals?

Where would you dare to go with your boost?

Maybe my goals are too low for the 2.5 Turbo. Should I be shooting higher with the modifications I am currently planning?

Thanks again for your input.
I've ran 25psi on Sunoco leaded 110 octane fuel with bone stock internals with no issues. Unless oil pan baffle counts? That was for only a tank though.....but it ran like a bat out of hell. Most of the time I run 17-18 psi on 93 octane and make around 400 rwhp. Only problems I'm having are oil leaks. And, I'm pretty darn stupid when it comes to tuning, so my car is going to the dyno soon to get tuned.
Old 12-16-2010, 07:56 PM
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George D
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Originally Posted by Chris White
The other way to look at it is that the turbo was not too big – its that the engine was too small! Swap the 2.5 engine for a 3.0 and that turbo would have been pretty good!

Agree, but I'm trying to help a guy building a 2.5 and sharing my opinion. LR makes great products. No bashing here. You know how it feels to have lag coming out of a corner and it sucks not having power when you want it.
Old 12-16-2010, 10:13 PM
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Thank you guys for your advice! I am reconsidering not installing the oil pan baffle kit or the rods at this point. I think I will put my money towards the items that will increase hp after the engine is put back together. I am now going to aim for 350hp and follow the advice you guys gave me. I really don't want that much lag. Thats not any fun. I will probably buy an alluminum flywheel and new clutch kit instead.

Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
Old 12-16-2010, 11:36 PM
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Cam bolt
Old 12-17-2010, 12:37 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by Clown
Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
Triple square, I think you mean?

Have you tried hammering the bit in? When they strip, it's usually because the bit slips out partially, and so the actual ridges don't strip all the way down...with a hammer you can some times get the bit in far enough to engage those last bits of metal and have one last chance at it.
Old 12-17-2010, 07:19 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by George D
Agree, but I'm trying to help a guy building a 2.5 and sharing my opinion. LR makes great products. No bashing here. You know how it feels to have lag coming out of a corner and it sucks not having power when you want it.
I was just ‘funnin’ you George! -> <-
Old 12-17-2010, 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Scott H
When tuning how do you know how much advance is "enough?" I've seen people say "advance it until you get knock then retard it a little," which seems kind of stupid to me. Is it one of those things that's ideally done on a dyno to see if more advance actually produces an increase in power?
One of the most insightful comments I ever got was from a dyno operator over a decade ago.
I was feeling pretty good about the tune I had just finished and I asked him (he did a lot of turbo engine work) if he thought there was any more power to be made. His answer was “what’s your R&D budget?”. I replied that we could spend several more hours on the dyno if needed. He then replied that wasn’t the issue, if I really want to know what the full limit of the engine was I would have to be able to afford to break it – only then would I really know exactly what the limit was!

The ‘usual’ way to pick correct timing is to look for torque drop off – but if you do this at full power and high boost you will run in to detonation and unless you are very used to tuning and dynos you stand a pretty good chance of damaging your engine.
Old 12-17-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Clown
Thank you guys for your advice! I am reconsidering not installing the oil pan baffle kit or the rods at this point. I think I will put my money towards the items that will increase hp after the engine is put back together. I am now going to aim for 350hp and follow the advice you guys gave me. I really don't want that much lag. Thats not any fun. I will probably buy an alluminum flywheel and new clutch kit instead.

Speaking of the flywheel... those bolts are a pain I stripped the last three of nine last night and I was using the proper four square bit. Now I have to drill them out what a pain. Any other bolts I should be worried about as I take the engine apart?
I hope you mean the pressure plate bolts and not the flywheel bolts (both are triple square). Drilling the pressure plate bolts is pretty standard, I usually have to drill at least one. Once the pressure is release the ‘stub’ will come out with just your fingers!

If you go with the aluminum flywheel make sure you get it balanced – and make sure that the reference sender triggers are installed!

Good choice on the 350rwhp target – you will like it! You don’t need a huge turbo to get there.
Old 12-17-2010, 08:49 AM
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Chris/JD968- Yes I meant the pressure plate and yes I was using the tripple square bit not the four square ( I think I made that tool up). Thanks for the tip about hammering I just did not think I had to since the other 6 bolts came out pretty easy....I had my body weight leaning into it pretty hard but I guess that was not enough. They are in there pretty tight. I sprayed pb blaster, I cut a flathead notch in the top with a dremmel and tried twisting with a large flathead driver then hammering screwdriver into one side of the notch to loosen but ended up just pealing the top of the bolt in a counter-clockwise cirrcular motion LOL.
Old 12-17-2010, 09:08 AM
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I always find it easiest to use an impact wrench, seems to get the most stubborn screws loose with less risk of stripping the head.

/Dea
Old 12-17-2010, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by George D
This is what you don't want on a 951 in terms of a power curve. This turbo is just TOO big. It's the Lindsey Super 75. I'm NOT saying it's a bad turbo, and this power curve might be the **** for the right guy, just not what I wanted in a street/DE/track setup. This car was very laggy out of the corners. The EVO's would catch me in the corners only to see my *** from 100+ yards on the back straight at Arroyo Seco. The lag sucked, but once on boost you did have a grin.
Yep, looks a lot like my dyno graph

What boost/mods for that chart?

But look how linear that hp line is???

Oh, if it was laggy that means you were just in too high a gear George! lol
Old 12-17-2010, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam Poland
I've ran 25psi on Sunoco leaded 110 octane fuel with bone stock internals with no issues. Unless oil pan baffle counts? That was for only a tank though.....but it ran like a bat out of hell.
Excellent real world data! Thanks for sharing that and showing my post about "octane is key" with these motors was not smoke I was blowing. LOL

Dear Santa,

Please bring me an E85 station!!!!!

Thanks Santa!

Old 12-20-2010, 07:46 PM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by toddk911
Excellent real world data! Thanks for sharing that and showing my post about "octane is key" with these motors was not smoke I was blowing. LOL

Dear Santa,

Please bring me an E85 station!!!!!

Thanks Santa!

Agree 100%
Old 12-22-2010, 09:11 AM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by toddk911
Excellent real world data! Thanks for sharing that and showing my post about "octane is key" with these motors was not smoke I was blowing. LOL

Dear Santa,

Please bring me an E85 station!!!!!

Thanks Santa!

Better tell Santa to add a standalone EMS and some larger injectors to the list….!
They will be needed to get the most out of E85 (actually the EMS mods are needed just to get the engine running in E85)!
Old 12-22-2010, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris White
Better tell Santa to add a standalone EMS and some larger injectors to the list….!
They will be needed to get the most out of E85 (actually the EMS mods are needed just to get the engine running in E85)!
Well, I know guys like Rogue and some others running E85 have had no issues or needing anything other then to richen up the a/f. It is just 20-25% leaner so you add the fuel and your good. Of course you can also adjust boost and timing to get a spot on tune but in terms of gas vs. e85 all that is needed is a richer tune and yes probably 72# or bigger injectors; but that is it.

Unless I am missing something?


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