Replacing LR Super 65 Turbo with what?. Advice wanted
Where did you get it?
12-12-2010, 06:22 PM
#17
Racer
Thread Starter
As for spec on the current turbo, I dont have them. What I want is a replacement which feels realy strong(like the 65) but with quick spool. I know I'll have to go for ball bearings, but my question is more: which is the better turbo and why?
For example looking at SFR's web page, it says tha ALL of the brands are the quickest spool on the market.....
The things I realy want to know:
Is a 57mm compressor big enough for 375hp? What sizes should i look at?
What is best dual ball bearings og ceramic ball bearings?
What choices do I have for straight bolt on?
I have also seen some turbo compressor maps, but I dont understand them. Can someone point me to a guide for reading them?
Enging are:
Stock head, interanls, intake and header.
72# injectors
044 bosch pump
Fidanza flywheel
Lindsey stage2 MAF
Mafterburner
3" exhaust
38mm Tial
MSL(?)
1,12bar boost. Will increase to 1,2bar
Zeitronix wideband
There is also a 75% chance that I will go for EMS within 3 months. Currently looking at the VEMS system..
The "turbo" decal was purchased on ebay. Cant remember the vendor but he was UK based.
12-13-2010, 10:19 AM
#19
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Your oil issue may have nothing to do with the turbo. Are you running a remote breather tank or AOS to MAF inlet hose?
None of our turbo's should require a restrictor in our opinion other then a BB. We have never had to
restrict one down ourself. So that makes us think unless it is a defect in the turbo itself, it's something
else yet to be figured out.
Looking at your data log, you're fully boosted at 3500 RPM. Thats very good for a Sup 65 and it's likely
a P trim. The more you turn up the boost, the earlier it comes on. Your not running much boost.
Finding a turbo that will pull like that one and boost much faster is a fairy tail. It's one or the other.
Thats to big for your goals if that's all the boost you plan to run. But if you wanted to make 400 RWHP
some day without loosing gaskets all the time, then it was a good choice.
What are you running for a turbo down pipe? If stock, then you have a restrictor plate bolted to your
turbo and you're not letting it breath.
If you do a 3rd gear 2500 to redline WOT data log with your Mafterburner and send it to us, your tune might be off and need some adjusting. With 72# injectors, and that boost level, it most likely is. What you're looking for might be able to be adjusted in with what you have. Your would be very surprised to see what can be done even with your air fuel ratios. On the other hand, maybe we have explained it to you and you tuned yourself. But if you're still running a 3.0 bar reg, or more then 36 psi with a adjustable, then your not tuned correctly and you have a lot of acceleration left on the table.
None of our turbo's should require a restrictor in our opinion other then a BB. We have never had to
restrict one down ourself. So that makes us think unless it is a defect in the turbo itself, it's something
else yet to be figured out.
Looking at your data log, you're fully boosted at 3500 RPM. Thats very good for a Sup 65 and it's likely
a P trim. The more you turn up the boost, the earlier it comes on. Your not running much boost.
Finding a turbo that will pull like that one and boost much faster is a fairy tail. It's one or the other.
Thats to big for your goals if that's all the boost you plan to run. But if you wanted to make 400 RWHP
some day without loosing gaskets all the time, then it was a good choice.
What are you running for a turbo down pipe? If stock, then you have a restrictor plate bolted to your
turbo and you're not letting it breath.
If you do a 3rd gear 2500 to redline WOT data log with your Mafterburner and send it to us, your tune might be off and need some adjusting. With 72# injectors, and that boost level, it most likely is. What you're looking for might be able to be adjusted in with what you have. Your would be very surprised to see what can be done even with your air fuel ratios. On the other hand, maybe we have explained it to you and you tuned yourself. But if you're still running a 3.0 bar reg, or more then 36 psi with a adjustable, then your not tuned correctly and you have a lot of acceleration left on the table.
__________________
Mike or Dave Lindsey
www.lindseyracing.com
U.S. 1-877-943-3565
Other 1-405-947-0137
Mike or Dave Lindsey
www.lindseyracing.com
U.S. 1-877-943-3565
Other 1-405-947-0137
Last edited by Mike Lindsey; 12-13-2010 at 01:11 PM.
12-13-2010, 11:48 AM
#20
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The oil leak is of course just a "fake" argument. The real reason for this is that I cant keep up with the 996 GT3 on my local track. The spool is just too slow and i loose the 30-50 meters before I am on power. When on power I can keep the same pace but not fully catch up. Verry annoying...
12-13-2010, 02:37 PM
#21
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12-15-2010, 03:08 PM
#22
Racer
Thread Starter
Your oil issue may have nothing to do with the turbo. Are you running a remote breather tank or AOS to MAF inlet hose?
None of our turbo's should require a restrictor in our opinion other then a BB. We have never had to
restrict one down ourself. So that makes us think unless it is a defect in the turbo itself, it's something
else yet to be figured out.
Looking at your data log, you're fully boosted at 3500 RPM. Thats very good for a Sup 65 and it's likely
a P trim. The more you turn up the boost, the earlier it comes on. Your not running much boost.
Finding a turbo that will pull like that one and boost much faster is a fairy tail. It's one or the other.
Thats to big for your goals if that's all the boost you plan to run. But if you wanted to make 400 RWHP
some day without loosing gaskets all the time, then it was a good choice.
What are you running for a turbo down pipe? If stock, then you have a restrictor plate bolted to your
turbo and you're not letting it breath.
If you do a 3rd gear 2500 to redline WOT data log with your Mafterburner and send it to us, your tune might be off and need some adjusting. With 72# injectors, and that boost level, it most likely is. What you're looking for might be able to be adjusted in with what you have. Your would be very surprised to see what can be done even with your air fuel ratios. On the other hand, maybe we have explained it to you and you tuned yourself. But if you're still running a 3.0 bar reg, or more then 36 psi with a adjustable, then your not tuned correctly and you have a lot of acceleration left on the table.
None of our turbo's should require a restrictor in our opinion other then a BB. We have never had to
restrict one down ourself. So that makes us think unless it is a defect in the turbo itself, it's something
else yet to be figured out.
Looking at your data log, you're fully boosted at 3500 RPM. Thats very good for a Sup 65 and it's likely
a P trim. The more you turn up the boost, the earlier it comes on. Your not running much boost.
Finding a turbo that will pull like that one and boost much faster is a fairy tail. It's one or the other.
Thats to big for your goals if that's all the boost you plan to run. But if you wanted to make 400 RWHP
some day without loosing gaskets all the time, then it was a good choice.
What are you running for a turbo down pipe? If stock, then you have a restrictor plate bolted to your
turbo and you're not letting it breath.
If you do a 3rd gear 2500 to redline WOT data log with your Mafterburner and send it to us, your tune might be off and need some adjusting. With 72# injectors, and that boost level, it most likely is. What you're looking for might be able to be adjusted in with what you have. Your would be very surprised to see what can be done even with your air fuel ratios. On the other hand, maybe we have explained it to you and you tuned yourself. But if you're still running a 3.0 bar reg, or more then 36 psi with a adjustable, then your not tuned correctly and you have a lot of acceleration left on the table.
Downpipe is 3" from LR, and I am running 2.5bar FPR. Have done a lot of tuning with the mafterburner based on Lindsey tips and they have even gone throug my AFR logs. Super customer service!
Oh, and doing WOT 3rd gear runs with a super 65, Icy roads and 195s rear tires is not an viable option. I scared my self doing this with R888 on dry roads, so... That turbo realy comes hard.
If I decide to stick with the Super 65, any tuning has to be done in the spring or on a rolling road.
12-15-2010, 03:26 PM
#23
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Thanks again for all contributing to this thread. Just for the record: I am very happy with all the Lindsey products and all the support they have been giving me. I now just thought it was time to try something else. Mabye I should give the Super 65 another go... If I just can find that anoying leak!
Downpipe is 3" from LR, and I am running 2.5bar FPR. Have done a lot of tuning with the mafterburner based on Lindsey tips and they have even gone throug my AFR logs. Super customer service!
Oh, and doing WOT 3rd gear runs with a super 65, Icy roads and 195s rear tires is not an viable option. I scared my self doing this with R888 on dry roads, so... That turbo realy comes hard.
If I decide to stick with the Super 65, any tuning has to be done in the spring or on a rolling road.
Downpipe is 3" from LR, and I am running 2.5bar FPR. Have done a lot of tuning with the mafterburner based on Lindsey tips and they have even gone throug my AFR logs. Super customer service!
Oh, and doing WOT 3rd gear runs with a super 65, Icy roads and 195s rear tires is not an viable option. I scared my self doing this with R888 on dry roads, so... That turbo realy comes hard.
If I decide to stick with the Super 65, any tuning has to be done in the spring or on a rolling road.
12-15-2010, 03:35 PM
#24
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Thanks again for all contributing to this thread. Just for the record: I am very happy with all the Lindsey products and all the support they have been giving me. I now just thought it was time to try something else. Mabye I should give the Super 65 another go... If I just can find that anoying leak!
Downpipe is 3" from LR, and I am running 2.5bar FPR. Have done a lot of tuning with the mafterburner based on Lindsey tips and they have even gone throug my AFR logs. Super customer service!
Oh, and doing WOT 3rd gear runs with a super 65, Icy roads and 195s rear tires is not an viable option. I scared my self doing this with R888 on dry roads, so... That turbo realy comes hard.
If I decide to stick with the Super 65, any tuning has to be done in the spring or on a rolling road.
Downpipe is 3" from LR, and I am running 2.5bar FPR. Have done a lot of tuning with the mafterburner based on Lindsey tips and they have even gone throug my AFR logs. Super customer service!
Oh, and doing WOT 3rd gear runs with a super 65, Icy roads and 195s rear tires is not an viable option. I scared my self doing this with R888 on dry roads, so... That turbo realy comes hard.
If I decide to stick with the Super 65, any tuning has to be done in the spring or on a rolling road.
reading at what ever is your redline, we would know if there is more in it.
Doesn's sound like you have a knock sensor or KLR issue, but you might.
We also like to have the bypass valved closed and not circulating off boost
(as well as in boost). Keeping it closed can help some in spooling.
12-15-2010, 03:46 PM
#25
Three Wheelin'
12-16-2010, 12:23 AM
#26
Burning Brakes
looking at your afr, its not rich enough to be sooty like I am describing, UNLESS, your running no catalytic converter , then its totally unburned HC's left over from not being burned off by the CAT . Come to a standstill after a full throttle run, or whenever you notice the smell, and take a big wiff out the tail pipe, don't kill yourself though! smell like oil? It will be VERY OBVIOUS if oil vapor is there, if not, its coming from the engine bay area or directly underneath the tunnell area and getting sucked through. I use a garrett gt30r with a progressive 4" exhaust, vittesse stage3 maf with v-flex and piggy back, and 95lb injectors......phenominal setup for road racing. I definitely say go with a garrett gt turbo if going to ball bearing centers. I run my bov atmospheric , so i run a little richer by not recirculating the metered air .
12-18-2010, 06:47 PM
#27
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks all for replying.
Taking some realy good input from Pauertuning and Lindsey has made me give the Super 65 another go.I realy like the kick in the turbo, so I am taking it out this weekend to inspect an recheck. I am convinced that if I want to replace it with something superior it has to be the GT route and that includes a lot of modifications which I am not ready to do at the moment.
Hopefully I find what I am looking for and can continue with the Super 65.
I will up the bost to the 1.2-1.3 range and with some better tunning or EMS will give me what I need. I will post any results and findings.
Mike:
I will send you some readings at red line when the car is all back together.
What do you mean by bypasse close? Is it not closed at all times except when letting of the throttle at boost? Have I missed something?
Taking some realy good input from Pauertuning and Lindsey has made me give the Super 65 another go.I realy like the kick in the turbo, so I am taking it out this weekend to inspect an recheck. I am convinced that if I want to replace it with something superior it has to be the GT route and that includes a lot of modifications which I am not ready to do at the moment.
Hopefully I find what I am looking for and can continue with the Super 65.
I will up the bost to the 1.2-1.3 range and with some better tunning or EMS will give me what I need. I will post any results and findings.
If you hooked up you computer to your MB and got a max voltage to DME
reading at what ever is your redline, we would know if there is more in it.
Doesn's sound like you have a knock sensor or KLR issue, but you might.
We also like to have the bypass valved closed and not circulating off boost
(as well as in boost). Keeping it closed can help some in spooling.
reading at what ever is your redline, we would know if there is more in it.
Doesn's sound like you have a knock sensor or KLR issue, but you might.
We also like to have the bypass valved closed and not circulating off boost
(as well as in boost). Keeping it closed can help some in spooling.
I will send you some readings at red line when the car is all back together.
What do you mean by bypasse close? Is it not closed at all times except when letting of the throttle at boost? Have I missed something?
08-05-2013, 01:36 PM
#28
Rennlist Member
kghaas are you running with stock fuel lines ??
i would change them if i were you
this guy got lucky https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...line-fire.html
i would change them if i were you
this guy got lucky https://rennlist.com/forums/944-turb...line-fire.html
