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Kevlar Timing Belt - Worth it?

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Old 10-27-2010, 07:17 PM
  #61  
ehall
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Originally Posted by elargentino
I use a size 36 USN style "web" belt.
Great for tourniquets!
The leather is more durable.
Old 10-27-2010, 07:19 PM
  #62  
mikey_audiogeek
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Originally Posted by Mike Lindsey
We have been selling the Kevlar timing belt ( we get them from Rennbay ) for about a year now. We use them on every solid lifter engine we build and engines using stiffer then stock valve springs and any other engine the customers asks our opinion on which to use.

It's like rod bearings and other parts where you have a choice for the standard, and for a better part.

Yes, there are some parts where strength or whatever doesn't matter much, such as a hood shock or distributor rotor where there are different brands to choose from. Then there are the important and critical hard working parts of the engine like belts and bearings and those better rods for those runing high boost and rpm.

We are comfortable using a Genuine Porsche rod bearing in a engine, because as far as we know, there isn't anything better. So if it fails, we won't be saying to ourself or the customer, "o well, maybe we should of spent the extra bucks and upgraded from the Glyco's". We used the best at the time. Same applies to this belt. "Should" the belt fail, for whatever reason, we won't be saying the would of, could of, should of's.

You have to go with the best information you have available to make your decisision at any time. If Gates (world leader in belts ) say's it's a better part, we will take them at their word until proven otherwise.

We carry 3 timing belts. Aftermarket, Genuine Porsche in their box (could be a Conti, Gates or other) and the Kevlar. Different prices and assumably quality levels for different customers and their needs and budgets. Just like tires to tennis shoes.
Well said.
Old 10-27-2010, 07:22 PM
  #63  
slap929
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Leather is for peons. Gator is where its at. Still waiting for the gator/kevlar hybrid.
Old 10-27-2010, 09:39 PM
  #64  
CPR
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Originally Posted by CPR
YES, the Kevlar belts are WELL worth it.

Anyone who honestly thinks the OEM belts are ~OK, fine, acceptable,etc...~ are uninformed to say the least. Further, if the bitch point is "I don't want to spend and additional $75/$100 is too expensive", then I would say sell your Porsche, get a CiViC and hit the HotRod Honda forums......
Originally Posted by carlege
why? (im pretty sure thats the whole point of this thread)

Why is a GT3076 better than a KKK/BW 27/8?
Why is a SS exhaust better than mild steel?
Why is Mandrel bent better than crush bends?
Why is TiAL better than a 26 year old WG?
Why is Widefire or Cometic better than Victor Rienze?
Why is Vitesse better than APE?
Why are Koni Sport Inserts better than OEM KS?
Why is SWEPCO better than OEM?
Why is 20w50 racing better than OEM reco 5w/40?
Why is......


The answer is simple. Technological advancements in materials and manufacturing allow for a superior quality product.

BTW, how many of these have you had to change?
Old 10-27-2010, 09:51 PM
  #65  
carlege
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Originally Posted by CPR
Why is a GT3076 better than a KKK/BW 27/8?
Why is a SS exhaust better than mild steel?
Why is Mandrel bent better than crush bends?
Why is TiAL better than a 26 year old WG?
Why is Widefire or Cometic better than Victor Rienze?
Why is Vitesse better than APE?
Why are Koni Sport Inserts better than OEM KS?
Why is SWEPCO better than OEM?
Why is 20w50 racing better than OEM reco 5w/40?
Why is......


The answer is simple. Technological advancements in materials and manufacturing allow for a superior quality product.

BTW, how many of these have you had to change?

Ive had to change 0 of these since the engine is being built but stating that it JUST IS is stupid and provides very little insite as to WHY. Now stating what material the teeth are made of the fact they are double enforced, are all very good starting points.

BTW how many times had you gotten pissed off while working on your car and put up a for sale thread?
Old 10-27-2010, 09:54 PM
  #66  
JDS968
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Originally Posted by slap929
Leather is for peons. Gator is where its at. Still waiting for the gator/kevlar hybrid.
You're assuming cow leather. I wear only 100% American-grown babyhide.

Ahem. Umm anyway, still curious whether anybody knows anything about the Kevlar belts being more resistant to degradation due to fluid exposure.
Old 10-27-2010, 09:57 PM
  #67  
carlege
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Originally Posted by JDS968
You're assuming cow leather. I wear only 100% American-grown babyhide.

Ahem. Umm anyway, still curious whether anybody knows anything about the Kevlar belts being more resistant to degradation due to fluid exposure.
Google
High saturation HNBR elastomeric composite (kevlar belt)

and Neoprene (standard Belt)

Im pretty sure that HNBR is more resilient to fluid exposure but i couldnt find an absorption charts so im just going by what the chemical make up list as Pros to the material
Old 10-27-2010, 09:59 PM
  #68  
CPR
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Originally Posted by carlege
Ive had to change 0 of these since the engine is being built but stating that it JUST IS is stupid and provides very little insite as to WHY. Now stating what material the teeth are made of the fact they are double enforced, are all very good starting points.

BTW how many times had you gotten pissed off while working on your car and put up a for sale thread?
Since you cannot follow the logic in my post:

The comparisons equate older technnology, that while adequate in its time, is now outdated and has the option of being replaced with a better built, higher quality product using advanced materials and more automated (read: uniformed) manufacturing processes.

Better?

And to answer the second question, only once. However, actually owning one has granted me some insight to have some first hand knowledge of what I am talking about instead of simply regurgitating what I have read posted by others.

Didn't really want to go there but.....
Old 10-27-2010, 10:05 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by CPR
Since you cannot follow the logic in my post:

The comparisons equate older technnology, that while adequate in its time, is now outdated and has the option of being replaced with a better built, higher quality product using advanced materials and more automated (read: uniformed) manufacturing processes.

Better?

And to answer the second question, only once. However, actually owning one has granted me some insight to have some first hand knowledge of what I am talking about instead of simply regurgitating what I have read posted by others.

Didn't really want to go there but.....
I agree its proably better but i needed Material listed so i could search and make a more educated decision.

After comparing it to other vehicles belts i dont think i would feel too unsafe having it on there for 5 years or 60k (with new rollers and pump on install) considering its a better material then the nissan belt thats 5 year 100k
Old 10-27-2010, 10:15 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Travis - sflraver
Hey Guys,

Don't listen to mark. He has absolutely no clue what he is talking about.

The factory didn't use this technology because it was not available in the 1980s. The belts offer more than just the strength of the kevlar cords, they have a much tougher tooth path than the factory spec belt.
All of you who have taken an old belt off and picked a few teeth from it know that this is the major weak point of the factory spec design. The NHBR tooth material used with the kevlar belts is the same material being used on all of the belts on new cars today. You know, the ones with 100k mile belt change intervals...
And, as far as the belts putting undue stresses on the rollers or water pumps? That statement is completely false and just plain ignorant.
Nice to finally see some heat on this site!

The only thing left to argue about is the expansion, somebody should just to some tests already. If the Kevlar doesn't stretch as much as the OEM belt, why no just set it looser to begin with?
Old 10-27-2010, 10:27 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by CPR
Why is a GT3076 better than a KKK/BW 27/8?
Why is a SS exhaust better than mild steel?
Why is Mandrel bent better than crush bends?
Why is TiAL better than a 26 year old WG?
Why is Widefire or Cometic better than Victor Rienze?
Why is Vitesse better than APE?
Why are Koni Sport Inserts better than OEM KS?
Why is SWEPCO better than OEM?
Why is 20w50 racing better than OEM reco 5w/40?
Why is......


The answer is simple. Technological advancements in materials and manufacturing allow for a superior quality product.

BTW, how many of these have you had to change?
Valid questions, my son.
We shall muse and discuss when the clouds clear.
Old 10-28-2010, 03:51 AM
  #72  
ehall
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Originally Posted by slap929
Leather is for peons. Gator is where its at. Still waiting for the gator/kevlar hybrid.
Gators are only good for crappers.
Old 10-28-2010, 03:54 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by ihaza944t
Nice to finally see some heat on this site!

The only thing left to argue about is the expansion, somebody should just to some tests already. If the Kevlar doesn't stretch as much as the OEM belt, why no just set it looser to begin with?
lol! Clearly the post of a newb.
Old 10-28-2010, 06:14 AM
  #74  
Black51
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The correct term would be 'n00b'!
Old 10-28-2010, 08:30 AM
  #75  
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