problem with air flow sensor?
04-01-2011, 03:39 PM
#31
Three Wheelin'
Pull the intake manifold, the AFM, intercooler pipes, and all rubber boots. That will get you a clear look at the turbo and all vacuum lines. Once you dig in there you're bound to find the issue. When you put everything back together, replace all vacuum lines, rubber boots, and gaskets.
04-01-2011, 06:46 PM
#32
Instructor
Thread Starter
Bring a noob here, I'm going to go out on a wild hunch here and guess that this should be connected to something:
Seriously, though....is that my vacuum line going to the KLR somewhere down there? And if so, would that be causing my issues? Knock regulator sensor tossing the car into what I assume is safe mode?
And the connector for it seems to be taken up by a line running over to the upside-down U-shaped connect you can see in the middle of this picture at the bottom, to the immediate left of the unit where the LED code sensor unit is:
Seriously, though....is that my vacuum line going to the KLR somewhere down there? And if so, would that be causing my issues? Knock regulator sensor tossing the car into what I assume is safe mode?
And the connector for it seems to be taken up by a line running over to the upside-down U-shaped connect you can see in the middle of this picture at the bottom, to the immediate left of the unit where the LED code sensor unit is:
04-01-2011, 07:04 PM
#33
Race Car
To be completely honest with you...
Considering you are finding hoses not connected all over the place it would be best IMO to have someone who is very familiar with these cars take a look at it or do a lot of studying of the hose diagrams.
You could be chasing your tail for a long time. And you may hook something up incorrectly (like the wastegate
. )
If anyone is close, most people aee willing to lend a hand
Considering you are finding hoses not connected all over the place it would be best IMO to have someone who is very familiar with these cars take a look at it or do a lot of studying of the hose diagrams.
You could be chasing your tail for a long time. And you may hook something up incorrectly (like the wastegate
. )If anyone is close, most people aee willing to lend a hand
04-01-2011, 07:09 PM
#34
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks blown 944. I have been looking at some diagrams, and the best one so far seems to be this one from Oz951:
http://www.oz951.com/public/images/vac4.jpg
I looked on the Lindsey Racing page but the only one I found that was close had a venturi delete, and I am trying to make sure everything is stock.
I don't mind hunting things down myself, but I could really use a complete stock diagram if someone has a link to one that for sure if 100% stock.
http://www.oz951.com/public/images/vac4.jpg
I looked on the Lindsey Racing page but the only one I found that was close had a venturi delete, and I am trying to make sure everything is stock.
I don't mind hunting things down myself, but I could really use a complete stock diagram if someone has a link to one that for sure if 100% stock.
04-01-2011, 08:45 PM
#37
Wax On, Wax Off
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Yeah. if your heater valve is causing your car to run sluggishly, you've got bigger problems.
Seriously, check your turbo. That'd be step one. Remove the airbox, remove the charge pipes, remove the J-boot, and check the compressor wheel. spin by hand, check for radial and axial play, and if those are good, the turbo is good. you're looking for free spinning, and minimal to no play.
Seriously, check your turbo. That'd be step one. Remove the airbox, remove the charge pipes, remove the J-boot, and check the compressor wheel. spin by hand, check for radial and axial play, and if those are good, the turbo is good. you're looking for free spinning, and minimal to no play.
04-01-2011, 09:59 PM
#38
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm going to dive into the turbo, as you and others have suggested. I was just hoping that I might find something completely backwards or leaking first.
04-01-2011, 10:53 PM
#39
Instructor
Thread Starter
spin by hand
check for radial
and axial play
and if those are good, the turbo is good. you're looking for free spinning, and minimal to no play.
04-02-2011, 01:19 AM
#43
Rennlist Member
Your wastegate would have to be stuck open for the car not to make any power the way you describe. The only way to check that is to take it off and bench test it.
If you think the turbo is working, you should still be able to make 2 or 3 psi boost and the car should accelerate decently, espescially in lower gears.
No, there is some major item here that's giving you grief. The odd disconnected vacuum hose or leak, although not good, is not going to render your car with such low power you're describing.
Either the engine is not getting air in or it's not getting air out; or terribly fuel starved, or no spark:
+2 on something screwy with your exhaust
your air flow sensor door has a springy resistance, but easily pushed open
maybe there's an obstruction in your intake (maybe a previous wrencher left a rag in the intake tract or something)
do you know if you're running very rich or very lean?
maybe some of your ignition components are totally shot
If you think the turbo is working, you should still be able to make 2 or 3 psi boost and the car should accelerate decently, espescially in lower gears.
No, there is some major item here that's giving you grief. The odd disconnected vacuum hose or leak, although not good, is not going to render your car with such low power you're describing.
Either the engine is not getting air in or it's not getting air out; or terribly fuel starved, or no spark:
+2 on something screwy with your exhaust
your air flow sensor door has a springy resistance, but easily pushed open
maybe there's an obstruction in your intake (maybe a previous wrencher left a rag in the intake tract or something)
do you know if you're running very rich or very lean?
maybe some of your ignition components are totally shot
04-02-2011, 02:00 AM
#44
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It sounds like the turbo is good. Try lightly tapping the wastegate it even blowing thru the wastegate lines with compressed air. If its stuck that'll free it in theory
04-03-2011, 05:58 PM
#45
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the help guys. And I agree that there's something larger here. If it makes any sense, the car is running too well for it NOT to be running well....i.e. vacuum lines look good, new plugs (needs wires though), good compression numbers, etc.
No time to work on it this weekend, and we just had spring break and I need to get the classroom ready for the last three months of school (so I can THEN have time to work on the car instead of doing that).
One more thing...it seems to rev fine when sitting, but stumbles under load.
No time to work on it this weekend, and we just had spring break and I need to get the classroom ready for the last three months of school (so I can THEN have time to work on the car instead of doing that).
One more thing...it seems to rev fine when sitting, but stumbles under load.