Bump stops for lowered cars?
#1
Three Wheelin'
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My car is lowered to about 25.5" to fender lip - so not really that low, but about right for combined street/track. I don't think there would be much to be gained by going lower anyway. I have GC camber plates (bottom mount) installed and 350 lb/in springs. I have had to cut my OE bump rubbers to half their height to get around 40mm between the top of the strut (koni yellows) and bump rubber. This must be a common problem. What do others run? Competition bump stops or no stops? What height are the comp ones? I can see why the RE plates would be an advantage in maximising suspension travel - but I'm stuck with these now, just may need to cut the rubbers down a bit more.
Interested in advice about what others do in this situation.
Eric
Interested in advice about what others do in this situation.
Eric
#2
Three Wheelin'
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My car is lowered to about 25.5" to fender lip - so not really that low, but about right for combined street/track. I don't think there would be much to be gained by going lower anyway. I have GC camber plates (bottom mount) installed and 350 lb/in springs. I have had to cut my OE bump rubbers to half their height to get around 40mm between the top of the strut (koni yellows) and bump rubber. This must be a common problem. What do others run? Competition bump stops or no stops? What height are the comp ones? I can see why the RE plates would be an advantage in maximising suspension travel - but I'm stuck with these now, just may need to cut the rubbers down a bit more.
Interested in advice about what others do in this situation.
Eric
Interested in advice about what others do in this situation.
Eric
https://rennlist.com/forums/7079140-post33.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/7517564-post172.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/7188946-post14.html
but I'm biased...
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#3
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Interesting to hear that you're still getting into the bumps with 850 rears Mikey?? What are the symptoms of that?
I know that a bit problem I had was getting into the fronts with 630lb up there. We had to raise the ride height in the end. Made a big difference on slower corners. You reduce the amount of push understeer because you allow the wedge to work properly.
Unfortunately we had to bite the bullet and buy some RE camberplates. Now have TONS of travel.
I know that a bit problem I had was getting into the fronts with 630lb up there. We had to raise the ride height in the end. Made a big difference on slower corners. You reduce the amount of push understeer because you allow the wedge to work properly.
Unfortunately we had to bite the bullet and buy some RE camberplates. Now have TONS of travel.
#5
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Similar ride height. KW bumps not sure how big, but with RE camber plates it doesn't matter. Sorry not much help Eric.
#6
Three Wheelin'
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Interesting to hear that you're still getting into the bumps with 850 rears Mikey?? What are the symptoms of that?
I know that a bit problem I had was getting into the fronts with 630lb up there. We had to raise the ride height in the end. Made a big difference on slower corners. You reduce the amount of push understeer because you allow the wedge to work properly.
Unfortunately we had to bite the bullet and buy some RE camberplates. Now have TONS of travel.
I know that a bit problem I had was getting into the fronts with 630lb up there. We had to raise the ride height in the end. Made a big difference on slower corners. You reduce the amount of push understeer because you allow the wedge to work properly.
Unfortunately we had to bite the bullet and buy some RE camberplates. Now have TONS of travel.
I run slight positive rake on the car (front high), which is slowly increasing as the rear Bilstein eye rubbers sag. Gonna square it up this weekend.
+1 on the RE camber plates.
cheers,
Mike
#7
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What about the GC top mount plates? Any reason to think the RE plates would be preferable in any way? Even the GC top mount plates are still a bit less expensive than the RE ($440 vs $500), and also has the caster adjustment.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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RE plates are red = faster...
Swings and roundabouts I think - both look good. I went with RE because IMHO they use a better spherical bearing and I also didn't want the hassle of lubing a needle roller bearing. Also depends on your thoughts about top-mount plates - although if bolted up correctly they will never be a problem.
Swings and roundabouts I think - both look good. I went with RE because IMHO they use a better spherical bearing and I also didn't want the hassle of lubing a needle roller bearing. Also depends on your thoughts about top-mount plates - although if bolted up correctly they will never be a problem.