Well, Mr. ECLOU.. lol. If you've done as much reading as I have.. (E-peen growing) you would know the LS1 designation has not actually been the Engine's real name for a long time. It's just what everyone called it and was familiar with, so it stuck. What this has to do with anything, I don't know, I just wanted to whip out my epeen. :)

But.. seriously.. what you're saying is, if you order an LS1 motor now, the engine that will show up at your door will be the same old style that was built in 1998-2000? If so, I stand corrected. GM may be idiots at times, but man, I can't imagine they'd keep selling that old flawed design. I've been wrong before and honestly don't have the time to research it throught the see of internet "truths" Can anyone give me credible evidence this is the case?

ok.. here's where i got confused.

Quoted from Hot Rod Magazine;

"In general, normally aspirated street engines below 650 hp can be supported by mid-'99-and-later stock LS1 aluminum blocks with just oil pressure/volume increases and basic blueprinting (honing cylinder bores with a deck plate, ensuring the bottom end is machined correctly, and so on). Notice that the '97 through early '99 blocks are excluded. If you're going to start adding power, these blocks become a liability. They aren't as strong as later blocks, and the oiling passage at the back of the block is restrictive to high-horsepower applications."

they didn't mention any other change just this. So.. ok.. got it. Still. buy later LS blocks if you must, but you get way more from the LS6. (With very little increase in price if any from what I'm seeing) like Tony has stated over and over again.

I think we have to remember that these concerns were about the LS1 surviving spirited street driving and drag racing, which is less demanding on the oiling system than a sustained G left handed banked turn on the track. Road racing is a whole 'nuther level of stress.

Additional Info to ^^^^

The pistons are made out of a different material so that a) they are stronger, but b) they have tighter cylinder to bore tolerances, plus a .5pt bump in compression.

The LS6 cylinder heads also flow more in stock format, and feature a different shaped exhaust port and are capable of make far more power in ported format over that of either of the LS1 heads (853 & 241).

The valves are different, but so are the valve springs.

And the windows in the block make a big difference in sustained high rpm applications (such as road racing...)

And the LS6 PCV setup is a must for racing.

And so yeah... a "newer" new LS1 will have some of the LS6 stuff, but a rebuilt older one probably won't.

.... are they even worth rebuilding with new long blocks at $4500?


TonyG

To make this more interesting. I have a 98 LS1 block thats been to the machine shop, has the upgraded oil pump and was built by yours truly. I will drive this motor until it explodes, which could be today or it could be 10 years from now. I know some of you just put a new ls6 block into your cars, so lets see if theres any noticable difference.

I ended up just getting the LS6 long block, too many parts I don't need on the full crate motor.

Funny how this thread has become the "all purpose" LS thread!

Congrats!!! This swap has become more and more popular, especially w/ the track crowd.

if you can't beat'em...

Hey Doc, are you going to be out at HPR for the PCA club race DE? I would love to snag a ride for a few laps with you if you are.

I ordered my Turn 1 p/s pump today i had a stock pump that tried to make work but, gave up on.

Glad you got everything ordered disasterman who did you get the mefi from?

I sourced it through RH which is going to save me time. Tomorrow I will be calling Tim at Racepak to review and talk about software and compatablity plus place my order.

Recommendations for flywheel, wires and stuff. Summit, Jegs or something like that?

I am trying to have everything in shop a week froom Friday. My front end will be fixed by then and we get down to business.

You will soon get lost on the hybrid parts like I did. the Flywheel may or may not be different than a stock LS style flywheel. it might be a smaller one. I haven't done enough research on the options or if there truly is any. I do suggest you talk to Tony about what disc has lasted and what has not. Actually.. how bout this..

HEY TONY! lol.. WHat clutch has worked best for you over the years?

Race car only and I ordered the race disc. FYI, Eric was not an option, he would not have had the parts in time. Nice guy but a one man band. RH put me at the front of the line thanks to Rene making a call on a Sunday and we should be able to get this thing together in time the national championships with a lot of project management and help from friends (including rennlist folks).

All of this is a lot to assimilate in the time I have had to work on it, currently on day 3 of the project.

I guess I should start my own thread!

This is what happened to my drive shaft after a couple years of daily abuse and a 452whp LS2:

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/8533/shaftq.jpg

Make sure your drive shaft is engaged deep enough in the pilot bearing to get full clutch hub engagement.

Do NOT rely on the stock location of the shaft in the TT. Also, talk to David at Spec. He is the owner and drives a 951LSx and has gone to great lengths to design a clutch specifically for our application. He has worked in tandem with Tom Egan, who knows more about the swap than ANYBODY.

I used the "upgraded" clutch Renegade offers with their kit along with the aluminum flywheel they offer.

Oh.... and make SURE you have the flywheel balanced before you install it. I do not care what anybody tells you. You take it yourself and have it balanced!

Also.... you will want to fabricate up a bleeder extension for the hydraulic slave cylinder so that you can bleed it from the engine compartment rather than the ground. And make sure you fill the clutch slave with hydraulic fluid (as much as you can) before you install it.

TonyG

I used this

http://www.tick-performance.com/tick...ulics/#bleeder