Ski

I have a crank, Mahle 2.8 pistons(in the box from Andial - 100.5mm) and a set of Wossner rods in the box.

crank 900, pistons 1500, rods 800 - $3200. Will the VR II make it, discussed with John? Just curious if it will or if the calibration would need to be changed. Quite a bit of difference in VE from 2.5 to 2.8.

Jfrahm

Josh already knows about this and it looks like he wants to start fresh but if anyone else in the Front Range is interested I have a motor from my old Turbo S that is built and pretty fresh. Factory replacement block with that block code and paperwork for the replacement. It was an insurance job from freezing damage (yeah I know, weird, but whatever.)

This is a factory built short block that cost $8300 in 2001, replaced at 112K miles. I bought the car at 132K miles in 2003 (after it got rearended when I was test driving it) with the intention of swapping lots of it's bits into my S2 cabrio. M44/5X block code I believe. I pulled the motor and tucked it under a workbench. It is complete from oil pan to turbo at this point.

Issues:
The turbo was replaced after the motor install so there might have been FOD. A borescope would be helpful to see how things look inside.
I do not know what rods are used for these blocks, some say they stopped using forged rods for turbos at some point, some say otherwise. No big deal for most. They should be typical late 951/951S rods.

I've just kept it figuring a local person would need it someday, or that I might use it if I found a 951 with a blown engine for sale. I'm not interested in shipping it as I do not want to deal with crating and I would like the buyer to satisfy themselves that the motor is what they want at time of purchase. Compression and leakdown should be possible to do albeit cold. Price? $2000 or so, depending on how much of it you want.

I, personally, like factory built motors as the cost of assembling one as well as the factory is large. I'd take a 50K-70K mile factory built bottom end over a zero mile rebuild any day unless the rebuild was built by one of the very best. Of course if you need aftermarket rods or a different bore you have no other choice, but then you have to hope whoever indifferently screws the engine together does a halfway decent job.

-Joel.

gt37vgt

I'd love to get the quote for 8300 and send the check to Chris White

Jfrahm

Yes, and that was just for the shortblock. The shop bill was $14,600.

gt37vgt

yeh that could buy me a whole lot chris white danger

V2Rocket

PELICAN apparently has a piston set for a 2.8 stroker, .50 over, for under 600..

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/...ENGpis_pg4.htm

tconn

Since options are being thrown out there... find a 2.7Lna motor.
It has a 104mm bore. Andial still has 104.5mm turbo pistons.
Forged 951 rods will work unless you plan for alot of power.
Stock crank will give you a 2.7L , add a 3.0L crank and you have a 3.0L.
The 2.7L head will work with the only mod being the installation of 951 exhaust valves.

A word of caution, do your homework before deciding on an engine builder. Can't stress this enough.

V2Rocket

do the andial pistons have the pin moved?

tconn

Don't know what you mean?

The 104.5mm Mahle pistons are the same as the factory 968 Turbo pistons.
If your refering to the 100.5mm Mahle 2.8L stroker pistons then yes.

Tom M'Guinn

This is basically my motor -- 2.7 '89 motor, with Mahle/Andial pistons and Carrillo rods. I had the exhaust ports Swain coated for good measure too.

Those Mahle pistons need the longer stroke of the 3L crank -- if you tried them with the 2.5L crank, they'd come up short in the bore and your compression would be off.

Also, you may need to grind the girdle to use 951 rods with a 3L crank in a 2.7 block (since I believe but am not 100% sure, the 2.7 girdle is like the 2.5, without the extra room the 3L girdle has). That's why Andial included Carrillo rods in their stroker kit. Carrillo rods clear on their own though.

RE machine shops, I started with a local shop with a great reputation. They literally ruined my original 968 block, after waiting endlessly. I had great luck with my next machinist, but I won't go there...

tconn

Tom , thanks for clarifying the info on building a 2.7turbo out of the 2.7L block. The info I posted was what an "expert" told me awhile ago. I didn't research it because it was of no interest to me. The reason for my post was to include that it is pretty easy to build a 3.0L out of the 2.7L.
This is the route I intitially took. My 3.0L is now being built using a S2 block.

I'm glad your second machinest worked out, you must have dealt with him at the right time, god knows I didn't, but
I won't go there.

fast951

When using the 2.7L head, the intake manifold must be machined. The intake ports on the 2.7L head are oval vs. round on the 944/951.

It's good to note that the 2.7L head, out of the box flows much better than a 951 head. The only issue about most 2.7L heads I have seen is the condition of the mating surfaces. Before purchasing a 2.7L head, examine the mating surface, it might require additional work ($$$).

docwyte

I talked with Chris White yesterday as well as the shop in Texas that has done several LS swaps and manufacturers many of the needed parts for the LS swap.

I'm waiting for spread sheet quotes from both to see the costs involved before I make a decision although at this point I'm leaning towards the LS1.

If both quotes are too high, I'll pick up the motor that Joel has locally, put it in the car, ensure all is working well and most likely sell the car.