Tayloray

well one i get it out, is there any way to get it off? because i've found another one i can buy for $30 instead of $400 for an entire tt assembly

theedge

Ohhhh the rear.... Yes, pressed on I think.

Tayloray

well the crack was so large, i cute i slit where the dust cover is, and a little over 1/3 of the bell housing came off, but the rest is on there good, i have everything undone to lower the rear suspension, but it won't lower. if i pry on it, it will a little bit, then go back into place. i feel like throwing in the towel, i've been working non stop on thies, my daily driver, and walking to work for the past two weeks, and i'm still nowhere near finishing.

first the coupler got stuck and after 3 days i just bent in the spare tire well to pull the tranny out, then one of the tranny mount bolts got stuck. which took another full day of wrestling with. then a suspension bolt stirpped off, i cut the wrong end off, then after 3 days of trying stuff, i finally got it out, now the suspension wont go down. dammit.

V2Rocket

Tayloray

would a TTout of an NA 944 work> of the same yeah

odurandina

though this shining example might not be a turbo... it's for sale -- and the prognosis isn't pretty:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...-the-944s.html



a remarkable project so far:

https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...6-20-10-a.html





i'll spend close to 75 grand before my 968 is finished - but, i believe i will enjoy the car. i'm sure of it.

Tayloray

I'm just looking to have a quick, mechanically sound 951. i don't care if the dash has a crack, the rocker has a dent, etc. I'm going to beat the hell out of it, and enjoy. i'm not trying to have a showroom perfect car. I had an NA that was in amazing shape, and i hated it because i worried about it constantly.

Josh B

I can guarantee that there is a lot of maintence on your car that should be done before making more power....

When was the timing belt/balance belt/rollers/front engine seals/water pump last done?
How about rod bearings?
How is the integrity of your engine harness around the injector connectors and Ref/Speed sensors?
What sort of voltage readings are you getting and have your grounds been cleaned?
Any cracks in your battery harness?
Cracks in your exhaust manifold? (I can promise you have these and just don't know it)
Headgasket and oil block off plate seal been changed?
Suspension been rebuilt?
How is your brake fluid and tranny fluid - ever been changed?
What year were your tires manufactured in?
Compression numbers/leak down numbers?
Front and rear alignment?
How about sensors - when were they last replaced? Speed/ref/oxygen/tps/oil pressure/dme water temp??

You'll end up chasing big hp numbers and then all the little nagging stuff like this will start failing. 350 to 400 without race gas and high boost is NOT attainable with bolt ons. You'll need to change displacement, switch to E85, or make big fab changes to go with a new breed of turbo. Pretty much right around 300 is the what can be attained on pump fuel and safe boost that won't eventually blow your car up.

Go get your car dynoed now and see what it is putting down. Better yet take it to a DE and see if you can do even half of what the car is capable of....

TurboTommy

That statement, right there, will cost you a pile of money.
Do everything in the above post.
Especially, if you don't refreshen all the electrical, you will be forever chasing gremlins; enough for you to pull your hair out and eventually take a sledge hammer to the car. This is especially true when you start modifying, as that is when all weaknesses (electrical, or otherwise) will be exposed.

350 to 400 whp is asking alot and is not practical when staying with 2.5L displacement.

Adonay

+1

It can be done but not easy on pump gas. Racefuel or E85 and lots of boost will get you there though.

That will cost you big time. Look at my car as an example it was running fine stock every service was done and maintenance was tip top. I bolted on a bigger turbo and supporting mods. Now thing after thing seems to brake as they cant tolerant the engine/power change. All sensors done,HEAD GASKET,BELTS,CLUTCH,GEARBOX. Was changed right before then things started to brake like ,engine mounts,busted fuelrail,Hoses broke,Electrics started to go weird,mounts on PS and Alternator broke clean off during acceleration,Fuel lines leaking,Dead relays,Broken fuel pump,Oil leaks etc. Note before my power upgrade my car was dead on reliable. After changing some stuff everything started to brake i have changed so many things and used several hundred hours on the car and new stuff still pops up to surprise me. Some times i wish i kept it stock but thats before i play with it at around 300@wheels i am quite happy but it has done a huge impact on my economy the last year. Be prepared people told me this before i started on this car that problems always show after you bump the power. I did not belive them But now i realized this is not like my old 2004 subaru were you can mod and everything is fine. No most parts are over 20 years old and they cant handle the extra strain.

TonyG

I did it on a 2.5L on 91 octane. 401RWHP at 17psi/415RWHP at 18psi.

On a 2.5L, 350RWHP is easy. 400+RWHP is not At least not on pump gas.


TonyG

Tayloray

I guess i'll leave it alone for now. it has a new clutch, recent tires. fresh fluid all the way around, etc, etc. but i'll keep it tame for now. its pretty fun as it sits

toddk911

Stock head and cam?

TonyG

No.

JME ported 8V N/A head (with stock valves and lifters)

JME cam

SFR 4 into 1 header & cross over

SFR 3" exhaust system w/ three Borla XR1 mufflers

Turbonetics 60-1 HiFi compressor / .70 a/r O trim turbo

Stock intake manifold cut open, ported, and welded back together

Enlarged throttle body

72lbs Bosch injectors

Stock fuel pressure regulator

Hi volume MBZ fuel pump from Lindsey

Stock DME/KLR w/ chiip

Stock intercooler

PowerPerfect piggy back controller

Lindsey MAF (ford)

Stock block

Stock 2.5L pistons

Knife edged crank

Carillo Rods

Aluminum Flywheel

Balance shafts deleted

Stock ignition coil


There it is....


TonyG

TurboTommy

TonyG;

what is the O trim turbo?
I'm assuming that you changed the cross-over because you weren't bolting up to a KKK?
Did you ever measure back pressure in the cross-over?
How is the SFR header supposed to improve performance and did you notice anything?