onspeed

most of those look like metal rings, any reason they can't be reused?

also, 86 951 should have 24mm front sway bar, right?

onspeed

day 2 - only worked ~4 hours... took the exhaust, starter, shift boot, heat shields off. disconnected the thing connecting the driveshaft to the transmission... it was starting to strip as i used a wrench, had to use an impact, think i'll replace those two allen bolts. have to go buy 12 point bits for the CV joints. full day tomorrow, hopefully i'll get everything out tomorrow...

onspeed

quick question - all the guides say to use a MoS2 (Molybdenum disulfide). The greases i can find at the auto stores are lithium based with MoS2 additive, is that ok? Or do i need a special pure MoS2?

and for CV joints, just any grease made for CV joints?

Tedro951

I use 60% moly paste. Honda motorcycle shops usually carry a small tube of it for the driveshaft splines in my goldwing. It's specifically called for because of the low moly content (10% or less) of most off the shelf stuff at the auto parts stores. I think it was about $12US.

onspeed

day 3! waiting on a 10mm hex socket i set my dad out to get, for that bolt connecting torque tube to transmission. looks like i should have the old clutch + misc parts out by today, hoping to get everything new lined up, cv joints repacked, and tranny mount polyurethane'ed by the end of the day. reassembly should be much faster, hopefully.

lost the oil dipstick sleeve o-ring, and also one of the washers for the speed/ref sensors plug into the bracket.

if you've suggestions, advice, etc, feel free to post.

JohnKoaWood

If the parts fell into the holes in the bracket, it is OK, they will be inside the bellhousing when you take it off to get to the clutch!

And good choice on poly for the trans mount!

onspeed

My stock mount seems fine.... but am I supposed to just put poly in between the gaps?

Luis de Prat

Coincidentally, 'CV joint grease' is usually the highest in MoS2 content, so I'd use this kind for both applications.

I just used CV joint grease to set up the engine head cams and lifters on another car instead of generic assembly lube and the head did not clatter at all on start up after reassembly.

onspeed

got the bell housing off (didn't have to remove ref sensor bracket!) managed to only strip 1 PP bolt, and that was only because i tried to do it without locking the flywheel. flywheel lock isn't necessary, as long as you're applying the torque with the bolt at the 3 o'clock position, so your applied force isn't going to cause the thing to turn. anyhow, got my dad out buying me a metal drill bit to drill out the one bolt. the cause of the clutch noise is the release bearing. there's a lot of play in the old one, new one has no play at all. it's getting late, but i want to have the clutch/pp/release bearing, flywheel, and hopefully pilot bearing before i stop working tonight.

edit - couple questions.

1. I know i'm supposed to grease up the bearings and etc. when i remove the 2 bearings on the clutch pivot thing, do i put grease on the outside or inside of the new bearing
2. The rear main seal, do i need a seal presser/puller to install/remove?
3. When the flywheel comes out, i know there's markings on it to show when TDC is reached... will it only install one way or do i need to make a note of position when i remove it?
4. both the speed and ref sensors have washers that go between the bracket and the screw, right?
5. I didn't have to touch the speed/ref sensor bracket when i removed the bell housing. given i can install the bellhousing without touching them, i shouldn't need to make any adjustments?
6. when i reinstall CV joints to transmission, do i have to align it back to how i removed it? as in the screws will go into the same holes they came out of?
7. the polyurethane i bought was from lowes. i know i read a couple guys did the same thing... it's 100% polyurethane/ construction adhesive. is this k?
8. do i need to resurface flywheel? will get a pic.

JohnKoaWood

Good Job, I have stripped 1 bolt each time I have done a clutch...

1) Inside, as they press into the fork (I used a socket and hammer to drive mine out, and a c clamp to press in the new ones)
2) Puller to remove, and there is debate about the special tool to press in the new one.... do it right the first time and you won't have to go back in and do it again!
3) There is a guide pin in the end of the crank, the FW will only mount 1 way.
4) Yes
5) With everything installed (FW) you can easily check them to make sure they are good...
6) Nope, they are essentially a balanced assy..
7) Sure, just make sure you give it enough time to properly cure, or you will end up with a mess
8) Scotchbrite pad on an air drill (or power drill) should be enough to remove any discoloring or minor marks...pics needed to be 100%...

onspeed

flywheel


clutch - PP side (I think...)


pressure plate


edit- more pictures
for those who will be doing this sometime soon, this is the space i was working with... it really wasn't too bad if you're a small person. there were some bolts that just were in crappy spots so it was tiring on the arm... but in terms of clearance for the tranny and exhaust and etc, this was a good height. when i did the stuff on the back, i had a head rest so i wasn't constantly in a sit up position. and that's a trash bag covering the driver seat.


another look at the height - the batteries are just barely not touching the tires. weight is on the jack stands and ramps, not the batteries... they're more of a precaution, in case something should fail, the batteries can hold the car up long enough for me to get the hell out. I also had a jack on the k-member for the front, just barely touching in case the ramps slip or break.


transmission. i dropped it using a motorcycle jack, with two blocks of wood between the frame. didn't have to deal with balancing the transmission on the small jack pad or anything. was pretty neat. and i disconnected it at the mount, not at the support bar... i didn't interpret the instructions very well, lol. i'll be dropping the bar though to urethane my mount.

944Phil

I used a 4" piece of pipe to install the RMS and it worked great. I'm not sure if this is the correct way but i also lubed/drenched the RMS with engine oil before installing it to make sure it slid over nicely.

I don't know if you need to surface your flywheel.
Are you re-using your PP? What clutch are you putting in?

JohnKoaWood

Just clean up the FW with a scotchbrite pad like I said, and you will be fine....

If you have air, using a small air grinder with a scothbrite pad attachment is great and will have it looking new with a few minutes work! If no air you CAN do it using a power drill and the same scotchbrite attachment but it will take a little longer!

onspeed

Phil - sachs pp/release bearing, 930 disc

John - i'll use a scotch brite as you say. i've been reading on the rear main seal, seems like a lot of people have problems where the new one leaks. 4'' PVC pipe cap has worked for you though with no leaks? and where can i get the puller to remove it? will any of autozone's loaner tools work?

JohnKoaWood

Generic seal puller should be fine, and FWIW the one on my N/A wasn't leaking when I did the clutch, so I left it alone... 20K or so later and all is still good!

The 951 IS leaking, and will be getting a new RMS as part of the full rebuild!