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Started on my clutch replacement...

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Old 06-27-2010, 01:19 AM
  #31  
onspeed
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hmm, i'm debating if i should touch the RMS or not then. I've read a lot of threads where people changed them out and then started having leak issues....
Old 06-27-2010, 11:16 AM
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JohnKoaWood
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Originally Posted by onspeed
hmm, i'm debating if i should touch the RMS or not then. I've read a lot of threads where people changed them out and then started having leak issues....
Exactly why I left the one in my N/A alone when we did the clutch... and it has payed off for me since!

BUT you will kick yourself for NOT doing it if you get everything back together and then in 100 miles it starts leaking..

For me it was a decision I thought long and hard about, and just said F'k it...
Old 06-28-2010, 12:14 AM
  #33  
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I've decided to replace the RMS, probably tomorrow. Going to put hylomar gasket dressing on the outside, like techno duck did, and just motor oil on the inside, PVC pipe cap to press it in with a hammer. Do i need a seal puller to remove? The pick axe type or the corkscrew type?

unrelated, got the tranny mount filled with polyurethane. should be 100% cured by the time i'm actually reattaching the transmission... applied it at ~2PM on saturday, probably won't be able to remount transmission till wed. at the earliest. here are some pics.





used small scraps of cardboard to prevent the urethane from flowing... that's what you're seeing on the edges, layer of cardboard that bonded with the urethane.


here's what i used. like 4$ from lowes. we'll see if it works...


mount has very little play now

edit -
there are a couple screws i wanted to replace... one of the transmission > torque tube bolts, the Allen head one on top, and one of the allen head driveshaft clamp screws... on both of those the head started to slip very very slightly, but enough that i don't want to reuse them incase they strip fully next time. Think i need to get special porsche bolts or could i just take a trip to home depot?
Old 06-28-2010, 12:21 AM
  #34  
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Get the pick axe type (good description lol).

Hylomar is just what i used, i think the factory manual recommends Curil-T. It worked for me but dont blame me if it leaks .

BTW, i used to live in Pasadena. Right off the Sam Houston tollway. I debated for a long time bringing my 951 down there, but only ended up living down there about a year due to work.
Old 06-28-2010, 12:30 AM
  #35  
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In the few years i've been lurking on here, i've only seen a handful of houston 951'ers. probably like 5. and i can only name them by their sig picture lol. there's one guy with a picture of his silver rose (possibly gold) one - picture of the front, there's another red one with aftermarket wheels...
Old 06-29-2010, 02:35 AM
  #36  
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which way is the clutch supposed to face? the side with the middle spline sticking out should face the rear of the car?

also, on the pressure plate and release bearing, the washer order goes bearing > thin washer > spring washer with the things facing down > pressure plate > thick washer with the flat surface facing the PP > circlip, right? and once the circlip is on, it's good to go, yes? I just layed it down, pressed down on the PP on the left and right to fit in the circlip... nothing needs to snap in place or anything, right?
Old 06-30-2010, 01:50 AM
  #37  
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Ok, got the clutch housing bolted in, i've confirmed the fork is hitting the tob. however, i've forgotten where the wire guides mount. i see a metal bracket attached to the line for the slave cylinder, and a stud coming out of the clutch housing.... and i've two guides that use to hold the starter wires in place. anyone can point me in the right direction? do i really need both of them or could i get away just using one?



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