velns

Hello everyone.
In my daily driving I stopped the car and could not start it back. Tried a few times and after one minute it run again. Then it took a week and again… the same think, but this time it took me about 15min to get it back running, I drove it back home, let it sit for an hour and gave a try, ok, it started up well. Latter the same day I tried to start it one more time and nope, it won’t start at all! It seems like symptoms are coming and going.
I have a new DME relay, witch I replaced but no luck, not starting and not giving any sign of life. The fuel pressure gauge on rail is showing that pressure is ok, therefore it makes me think it’s something electrical, more like there is no spark.

What should I look for?

One more thing, I have fuel consumption computer connected directly to injection wire, usually computer is turned on by signals going to injectors, but now fuel co. computer does not turns on, therefore I suspect there is no signal to injectors as well.

Van

I'd start with your speed/reference sensors. They they don't give a signal to the DME, the DME won't fire the injectors or spark.

velns

Ok, where can I find speed/reference sensors and how can I make sure that they are working? Is there any specific voltage I should read or resistance? What about values?

JohnKoaWood

http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/ign-02.htm

If they check out good it could be your injector harness has a break in the positive wire (a single positive feeds all the injectors and the DME turns on and off the ground, 2 injectors at a time... a single injector not firing, or 2 not firing would make the ground path suspect, but all of them not firing makes the positive lead suspect!) use a noid light (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...0070921x00003a) to check for power pulses at the injectors, this can also be used to verify spark at the plug wires while they are connected, but isn't the best test for spark!

Also you can pull a plug wire, and using a spark plug tester verify you have spark, no spark would make the DME, wiring, coil, cap or rotor suspect.
http://cgi.ebay.com/8-INLINE-AUTO-IG...tem#vi-content

velns

Thank you, that helps a lot!
Funny, but the car started again, therefore no luck to trace ir down Seems like I will have to bring tools everywhere I go

951Doc

Check power supply to the DME at the positive battery terminal - these wires sometimes come loose or make a poor connection. It will drive you crazy; for months I scratched my head on this problem with my car. Also, if you have access to an oscilloscope, you can check the signal from the speed/reference sensor off the flywheel. Check the tachometer also as you turn the engine over, this may give you a clue if the sensors or wire harness connecting them has failed. The tach needle should jump a little as the engine is turned over by the starter motor.

buxton

I had the exact same issues with mine. It turned out to be a failing injector harness. The rubber boots at the injector connection had wires that had corrosion and were shorting out. I had to cut open the rubber boots to check it. I put on a new harness and it cured the problem. I think I got it from Lindsey.

ehall

This used to have a standard answer. It used to be a bad DME relay. Do you have another handy to try out. You should always keep a spare anyway, but I'd wiggle the sensor wires and run your fingers down the length of them. You may well have a crack in one of them.

CPR

$100 bucks on the Sensors.....they always pull that **** when it gets warm.