Adam Poland

i can't seem to get the bell housing off of the back of my enginefor the release lever is giving me trouble. I know you take out the retaining bolt then put a longer bolt into the shaft right below where the retaining bolt was. I've tried prying it with a srewdriver and hitting the bolt with a drift. Is there a certain technique to this? The engine is out of the car.

cruise98

Use a slidehammer or clamp some vice grips on the bolt and hammer away. It is very common for the pin to be stuck.

spyder348

follow clarks garage steps to the T and it should not give you trouble. punch out dowel pin through housing towards engine. back 10 mm lock bolt all the way out, punch out big rod from lower end. has come right out every time for me.

Adam Poland

Ok thanks for clearing that up. I guess the pin is just stuck. Maybe some freeze-off and a bigger hammer would do the trick...

reno808

make ur own extractor

jerome951

If the shaft is been in there a while, you'll have to bang on the end of the bolt (clamped w/ vice grips) threaded into it to get it to release. You won't hurt anything so hit it hard.

944Phil

I had the exact same problem last week. remove the bolts from the pressure plate. You'll need to keep rotating the crank every time and remove the bolts from the starter hole. The bell housing, pressure plate and clutch fork will pop off together. Then punch out the fork from the top of the bell housing. I can provide pics if you want I haven't put the bellhousing back on yet.
Phil

Adam Poland

Ok I got it off this weekend, and now have the engine stripped down to the block. Turns out, when I sand blasted the intake, not all of the media came out and got into the cylinders. Walls, pistons, and rings are done for. So, we're going to get it bored out to a 3.0, J&E pistons, Lindsey Racing rings (unless there's any other suggestions?), and we're getting some head work done.

Mighty Shilling

that sucks.... but at least ya get more power.

Tom M'Guinn

Sorry to hear all that, and good luck with the rebuild.

A 3 liter needs the bores opened to 104mm (from 100) and an 88mm crank throw (from 78.9). That means you need a new crank to get to 3 liters. I would be concerned about boring a 2.5 liter motor from 100 to 104. The cylinder walls get pretty thin at that point. Also, J&E makes great pistons, and I know some people get away with it, but they are not really compatible with the Alusil bore. Search here for combo's that are proven to work, and be sure to use a shop that has plenty of exerience building these specific motors.

David Floyd

Like Tom said, boring alone will not get you a 3ltr, sleeves are normally used when boring to 104/106 mm.

A good used block should also be an option.