WideFire failure....
05-03-2010, 03:04 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WideFire failure....
Well while tuning my new Haltech install the boost controller went a litte haywire and we hit 25psi..ops...
Widefire gasket failed at #4 near water jacket (Sorry fgor the crappy pic), going to install LR newly designed Cometic and see what that does..
I must be getting good, it only took me 2 hours to get the head off.. dont know if thats a good thing..HAHA
Off to the shop to grab my stud puller, installing some new ARP head studs while i got it apart..
Widefire gasket failed at #4 near water jacket (Sorry fgor the crappy pic), going to install LR newly designed Cometic and see what that does..
I must be getting good, it only took me 2 hours to get the head off.. dont know if thats a good thing..HAHA
Off to the shop to grab my stud puller, installing some new ARP head studs while i got it apart..
05-03-2010, 03:15 PM
#3
Nordschleife Master
Head stud just snapped...errrr When does this turn into fun agian??
05-03-2010, 05:55 PM
#7
Nordschleife Master
Trending Topics
05-03-2010, 08:58 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
05-03-2010, 09:55 PM
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How many cycles have you had on the bolt? If you have only pulled the head a few times, one wonders if the bolts were over torqued in the past.
05-04-2010, 10:40 AM
#14
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Small
Business Sponsor
The cooling passages look very similar to the ones I just CAD designed with Cometic. I have some extra passages under the exhaust ports in my set up.
As for the special prep – it has to be SMOOTH…not necessarily machined (although that would be better) but it does have to be flat. I usually don’t recommend putting a MLS gasket on an unprepped block/head.
Sucks about the stud! The only ‘foolproof’ method to remove the studs is to TIG weld a nut to the stud, whack it hard with a hammer and then remove with an impact gun. Doing it with a hand wrench puts a ton of nonperpendicular stress on the stud – you can easily flex them until they hit the sides on the holes. How far down did it snap? You may want to be prepared to timesert the block…not fun!
As for the special prep – it has to be SMOOTH…not necessarily machined (although that would be better) but it does have to be flat. I usually don’t recommend putting a MLS gasket on an unprepped block/head.
Sucks about the stud! The only ‘foolproof’ method to remove the studs is to TIG weld a nut to the stud, whack it hard with a hammer and then remove with an impact gun. Doing it with a hand wrench puts a ton of nonperpendicular stress on the stud – you can easily flex them until they hit the sides on the holes. How far down did it snap? You may want to be prepared to timesert the block…not fun!
05-04-2010, 01:29 PM
#15
Instructor
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 114
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The cooling passages look very similar to the ones I just CAD designed with Cometic. I have some extra passages under the exhaust ports in my set up.
As for the special prep – it has to be SMOOTH…not necessarily machined (although that would be better) but it does have to be flat. I usually don’t recommend putting a MLS gasket on an unprepped block/head.
Sucks about the stud! The only ‘foolproof’ method to remove the studs is to TIG weld a nut to the stud, whack it hard with a hammer and then remove with an impact gun. Doing it with a hand wrench puts a ton of nonperpendicular stress on the stud – you can easily flex them until they hit the sides on the holes. How far down did it snap? You may want to be prepared to timesert the block…not fun!
As for the special prep – it has to be SMOOTH…not necessarily machined (although that would be better) but it does have to be flat. I usually don’t recommend putting a MLS gasket on an unprepped block/head.
Sucks about the stud! The only ‘foolproof’ method to remove the studs is to TIG weld a nut to the stud, whack it hard with a hammer and then remove with an impact gun. Doing it with a hand wrench puts a ton of nonperpendicular stress on the stud – you can easily flex them until they hit the sides on the holes. How far down did it snap? You may want to be prepared to timesert the block…not fun!
Going to try to find a shortblock for a standbay option.. Anyone got one laying around?? If so shoot me a PM... Thanks!