A stand Alone that is affordable for most.
#31
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#33
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your right not many options and the only option to me is 2mm female spade terminals criped on then heat shink over top.
i doubt there would be more than 5 wires in a Porsche that are soldered by hand ..
from what i saw Motec are very clever and have pretty good knowledge and skills but i really feel they have very little idea of what the competitors are doing or don't care and they are pretty idealistic
i doubt there would be more than 5 wires in a Porsche that are soldered by hand ..
from what i saw Motec are very clever and have pretty good knowledge and skills but i really feel they have very little idea of what the competitors are doing or don't care and they are pretty idealistic
#34
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[QUOTE=Thom;7535353]You mean a fully ready-to-fit 951 harness?
Yes. I understand it is complete with no wiroing required. Just remove the old one and replace with the new one and connect to all existing sensors, including the two Triggers.
Yes. I understand it is complete with no wiroing required. Just remove the old one and replace with the new one and connect to all existing sensors, including the two Triggers.
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So: What would be the all up price of the ecu, the harness, and the "knock block"? (And, out of interest, what is the technical reason the existing knock sensors can't be used?)
#36
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your right not many options and the only option to me is 2mm female spade terminals criped on then heat shink over top.
i doubt there would be more than 5 wires in a Porsche that are soldered by hand ..
from what i saw Motec are very clever and have pretty good knowledge and skills but i really feel they have very little idea of what the competitors are doing or don't care and they are pretty idealistic
i doubt there would be more than 5 wires in a Porsche that are soldered by hand ..
from what i saw Motec are very clever and have pretty good knowledge and skills but i really feel they have very little idea of what the competitors are doing or don't care and they are pretty idealistic
Motec is made for the the professional market, that's what you pay for.
#38
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If you want to continue the standalone discussion check this out.
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20552
-BB
http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20552
-BB
#39
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Crimping is the way to go - as long as you have the proper tool (and there are many types of crimps - each with its own tool). Crimping with pliers is just not right....
#40
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If folks can afford a $6K standalone, great, go get those features. But if an affordable one means you have to live with batch fire and wasted spark, it beats having a VAM or a shade tree MAF job.
This whole thread, as well as the one linked to the other board, has me seriously thinking about just making a crank trigger and running the thing with one of the Ford EEC-IV's I have laying around.
#41
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I don't you you have to go past $1500 to get sequential coils and injectors you get more and less resolution depending on what you spend . i don't think people are that hung up on having full sequential . clever injector drivers are handy to control big injectors idling .i would generaly opt for staged double injectors over clever driven big injectors ..
When you say ford ECU i assume you have some kind of cable or hand controller to plug in and mess with it ?
When you say ford ECU i assume you have some kind of cable or hand controller to plug in and mess with it ?
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I don't you you have to go past $1500 to get sequential coils and injectors you get more and less resolution depending on what you spend . i don't think people are that hung up on having full sequential . clever injector drivers are handy to control big injectors idling .i would generaly opt for staged double injectors over clever driven big injectors ..
When you say ford ECU i assume you have some kind of cable or hand controller to plug in and mess with it ?
When you say ford ECU i assume you have some kind of cable or hand controller to plug in and mess with it ?
I completely agree with you on the staged injectors. That is one of the many reasons I believe Toyota went with a dual injection setup when they introduced direct injection on their 3.5L engine in 2006. Small injectors for idle, big injectors for power.
Before I got this car, I did a lot of work on Ford 2.3 turbos, including calibtration. Very similar to the stuff that Rogue Ant is working on. I burned EPROMs and Flash Proms that plugged into the back of the J3 port on the PCM. The biggest advantage of the Ford is that it is possible to do a proper MAF conversion on them. I am pretty sure that John at Vitesse does it the right way as well, but the majority of MAF conversions are band-aids. PCM reads signal from air meter (Ford calls that swing door thing made by Bosch a VAM), looks up the volume flow from a table, puts that number into the code. It also pulls barometric pressure and ambient temperature reading numbers, and lookup tables from those, and puts them into the code. From there, it calculates a mass air flow number. Most aftermarket MAF conversions just plug a MAF number into the VAM part of the code, and then try to tweak the baro and ambient temperature numbers to get close to the right number for a MAF. I believe John's systems, as well as the one I was using, skipped all of that portion of code, and plugged a MAF value right into the code.
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Yep - still working on some things... hard to find time at the moment. But I have been driving on true MAF code for a while now
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#44
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True sequential was needed for idle quality to run the larger injectors, 1000cc,. I decided not to run the COP set up. The wasted spark set up I made (Copied from updated setups) was quit impressive! Spark was ridiculous over stock. I have already ran an extra set of injector wires from my MoTeC M48. I was suppose to have the Carbon / Aluminum, ITB Intake manifold with secondary overhead injectors done this Christmas. Frustrating. But yes. 2 stage injectors is by far the way to go in my opinion as evidenced by my ever lagging plans. Please still expect this fancy *** intake to come to fruition! I digress. I was ALSO going to just use a Honda Wiring system and tune it with a Honda ECU. VERY cheap.. And Easier than the MoTeC. Lots of options like using a Ford setup, or a Chevy setup. All easily programmable.
Last edited by 95ONE; 05-04-2010 at 12:45 AM.
#45
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