Rogue_Ant

You can use pulse-width-modulation (PWM) with a solenoid to make it act like a 'variable-valve' instead of just an on-off switch...

fast951

You can set your boost based on load/rpm/pressure.. You can tailor it to your liking.. It's programmable via the PB.. On my car I added a external **** where I can raise lower the boost as if I have a manual boost controller, except it's all electronic

(now let's see how many will be emailing me for this LOL).

porshhhh951

This particular part of John's kits has been hashed and debated by people who are trying to justify the cost. I'll give you some back story. The gauge cluster in that video isn't the original one that came with my car. Every single one of my needles were off after my dash install and in-fact I almost ran out of gas one time because, it said I still had 1/4 left. I adjusted them as best I could manually but, they were never perfect again. Unfortunately what you need are data logs and I have none to offer. Just that all my needles in every gauge in that cluster are off some what. You also need to realize your not watching a straight on camera shot. Its shot from the right and that means the needle will actually be further along(my needle would actually sweep past 2bar due to the new cluster). For some reason people get really up in arms about John's turbo's. What rpm they hit at, how they hit, and what power they make.

I re watched the video again just because, of your comments. I know my car and I know the needle. Its hitting 3600-3800 in 2nd gear. I'm not trying to start a debate. I just thought people might like to see a stage 2 V-flex system at full tilt. Trying to judge boost by looking at a 20 year old dislodged analog needle isn't going to cut it. I only know what it hits at because, I had someone else drive the car while I was holding the laptop logging cells. Boost would show up and I could replay the run through the rev range in the CD software. I also watched the tach and boost gauge for multiple pulls to see for myself.

Regardless the car was slow. All 944s are slow. I didn't buy john's kit to make 500hp. I bought it because, its reliable, works as advertised and I'm big on customer service and support of which in my experience John's is second to none.

choinga

...hmmm....I got the solenoid when I bought my kit from John...haven't installed it yet...still doing the black **** thing. Guess, I should get to work on that. I don't ever change my boost though (stuck it on 15PSI and not going any higher...) so, I'm good on the adjustable...

333pg333

So there's a boost program within the SMT6 John? I didn't realise this.
Having said this, I have been happy with the MBC as it just hits the exact mark every time. Never had any boost creep at all, but I guess there is a chance that it could be better tuned? I just thought you get pretty much max selected boost until you reach that and then the wastegate does it's job.

DanaT

OK.

I did the 4th gear thing (sorta). I was logging the run and recording the MAP sensor. At the time of the run, the boost was set to 12psi above sea level. Also, keep in mind I am at 5000ft so spool up is slower.

The car began to have the wastegate cycling (you can see this as MAP pressure going up and down slightly) but staying about the same.

The car was making 12psi @3280rpm.

I turned the boost up a little (to 14psi above sea level which is takes 16psi here to make) after that run and did a 3rd gear run and it made that at 3563rpm.

What is really telling is the difference in how the car feels. It just breaks the tires from a roll. With the old K27/6 it didnt do that. I measured the acceleration with Dynolicious on my iphone. The K27/6 only managed to make 0.60g of acceleration. The S2R peaked at 0.71g right before the tires broke loose.

The car is not in finished form yet so it hasn't seen a dyno or a dragstrip. But really, the car feels much much quicker.

-Dana

DanaT

You mean my car isn't as fast as a Hayabusa?

-Dana

DanaT

Looking through the logs, I found another run making 14.25psi @3458rpm.

-Dana

333pg333

"Slow" is a relative term. 98% of them are "Sporty". Some are rapid-ish, and a handful are fast. Compared to 1000hp Jap and US Muscle which are stupidly quick, they are indeed only fast at best....

Thom

I ignore how the base SMT6 comes configured, but as said you can still set your boost based on load/rpm/pressure through the PB.
There was no way I would reach 17psi at 2700rpm with the black **** as I do with the boost solenoid.

fast951

There is no boost program. With my instructions, I show you how you can program it to become a boost controller. There is nothing wrong with the BC, however the PB gives you more control and you can get better results.
The advantage of the boost solenoid/PB vs. EBC is the ability to program the ramp up, even run different boost at various RPMs..

There are many good things coming down the pipe. Stay tuned!

fast951

At 5000 feet elevation? Wait till you connect the WG in dual port and use the boost solenoid.. Some minor AFR adjustments and you will bring it down..

barks944

Is is a closed loop system or do you just set the duty cycle at a given load/rpm?

fast951

Since the boost value can be used to alter the output signal to the solenoid, it can be programmed as closed loop.

DanaT

Well i am running wiring for the selenoid....how many extra wires do i need to pull through the firewall (that is a fun job).

-Dana