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Old 04-13-2010 | 09:14 PM
  #16  
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Yea, most unique set up for an the FMIC that I have ever seen. At least for our cars. Very cool.
Old 04-13-2010 | 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Dougs951
If you don't mind, what are your target performance goals?
Similar as before, but with full boost by 3 - 3.5K. We also expect to see higher numbers much lower in the RPM range. Last dyno we were seeing around 450whp on pump gas and around 530whp at 23psi with race gas.

We've done so much engineering on the cooling front, I wouldn't be surprised to see slightly better numbers. This intercooler is much more efficient and has more rows, and my intake will be out of the engine bay. These little changes may show some additional power. Also, with the hood vented, at speed we'll see much more air flow through the intercooler and radiator.

Keeping things cool in these cars, I've found, is a very important aspect of the design any high output 951. Trust me, I've learned these expensive lessons by experience.

The goal this time around was keeping things much cooler, and creating much more power in the lower RPM ranges.

Something else we found when on boost was the voltage from the stock wiring to the Porsche 044 fuel pump was dropping when on boost. We wired a new harness from the battery back ensure full voltage to the pump. We think this contributed to the lean conditions we saw after we pulled the head when the cometic started seeping exhaust into the coolant.
Old 04-13-2010 | 09:17 PM
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Looks great George. Keep tinkering and some day you will have something. LOL.... Keep up the good work.
Old 04-13-2010 | 09:26 PM
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So will the IC be permanently attached to your front bumper?

I like it because it's different. Similar to Corelone, but different. The vertical IC route is the better way with the constraints of the body. But then you run into poor end tank design and hard pipe routing, it's a toss up really.
Old 04-13-2010 | 09:33 PM
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interesting voltage tip, thanks - DSM's have the same issue.
Old 04-13-2010 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by George D
I'm assuming that you realize that there will be a constant flow of air going through the intercooler? There won't be enough time for the heat to rise, it's going to be forced into the bottom intercooler tank, then evenly flow through the core then into the upper tank. Flow through my TB, intake, then shoved down my head's throat to mix with fuel for combustion.

Sorry if I'm sounding like a smart-***. Whether the boosted air enters from the top or bottom is irrevelant, as far as considering potential heat rise and the ability of this intercooler application to work as designed.

Thanks for the post.
Nope not sounding like a smart-***. Thanks for the explination. Im no expert on intercooling or their designs but i was just a little intersted as to the thought process of the cooling.
Old 04-13-2010 | 10:00 PM
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Here are some more pics of the intercooler I dug up.

I think this is yours anyway.

Old 04-14-2010 | 12:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Dougs951
Here are some more pics of the intercooler I dug up.

I think this is yours anyway.

Funny, that's mine. I must have posted this earlier in another post. This particular core will flow about 1100CFM. Most, if not all cores with silimar rows will show similar flow capacity. You want your intercooler to flow, but you also want the pressure drop (pressure measured in and air pressure out) to be as similar as possible under boost. The core is the first part of the design, then you design end tanks, flow it, change a few things, flow, change a chamber design, flow, and finally get what you want...hopefully.

Real world operation is usually different than the calculations, or flow bench readings. You just can't replicate real world applications unless it's in the car while running under boost. We do the best we can, and end up with as good as it gets without unlimited budgets.

Blowing boost pipe connectors lets you know there is pressure drop, as it backs up quickly, and will create issues. Haven't most of us blown our intercooler connectors when running high boost? I sure have, and have also created leaks that I couldn't see. Why do you think this happens? It's not the CFM, it's the pressure drop. Turbo's will flow to our set PSI no matter the capacity and design of your intercooler. If things get backed up, we blow hoses, or just think all is well.

This intercooler has almost the same pressure under boost as it's exit. There is almost no pressure drop, and this is a good thing.

Good posts, and I'm happy to share my results once we get everything buttoned up, tuned, and show the results from our dyno readings.

That's what we do here, and I'm an open book when it comes to helping others with their cars. Scars, money spent, and hopeful results.
Old 04-14-2010 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by George D
Funny, that's mine. I must have posted this earlier in another post.
I thought that picture would help people understand the lower tank.

And yes you did post it in a thread about Ebay FMIC's.

I wish I needed one of these. Maybe some day....
Old 04-14-2010 | 01:05 AM
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New rad looks awesome, quite the upgrade!

The stock wiring isnt remotely up to running an 044. My wiring was warm to the touch after running the pump in free flow (pumping fuel from the tank to a jerry can). That means voltage drop. Pumping in free flow like that is the lowest current draw, so if the wire is warming from just that....

I ran additional wiring for mine after I noticed the above. Unplugging the extra wiring results in the pump sounding more strained/loaded due to the lower voltage.

In my opinion, an 044 should NEVER be installed without extra wiring...
Old 04-14-2010 | 01:51 AM
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Originally Posted by theedge
New rad looks awesome, quite the upgrade!

The stock wiring isnt remotely up to running an 044. My wiring was warm to the touch after running the pump in free flow (pumping fuel from the tank to a jerry can). That means voltage drop. Pumping in free flow like that is the lowest current draw, so if the wire is warming from just that....

I ran additional wiring for mine after I noticed the above. Unplugging the extra wiring results in the pump sounding more strained/loaded due to the lower voltage.

In my opinion, an 044 should NEVER be installed without extra wiring...
Good post, but would have liked to know this prior to spending time wondering why my FP and AFR readings seemed to be fine. This is why this list and shared information makes me continue to post. I want all you fellow 951 folks to enjoy your cars. The 951 is a pain in the *** to service, mod, and love. Driving a well set up 951 is an absolute hoot.

Some of what I share may help one of you, and that's enouth for me to post my issues, and success.

I love these forgotten cars. I've been reading a book called, "The Art of Racing in the Rain." Great read, nothing technical, just a great book for us car nuts who have other obligations. My racing experience in cars is PCA, NASA, and just us guys renting a track. I'm no professional, but I love the sport.

I'm just a better/happier and confident driver in a 951. I'm no snob, but I'm doing this work on my build because I can, and want to have something that I love to drive. Some of us want our own car, built with our ideas, with help from those that are experts in creating what we want.

Showroom new, or other cars that I've modded just don't give me the thrill of being behind the wheel of my 951 when it comes to driving a purpose built bad *** sports car.

Thanks for those that post to help others wanting to drive their cars.
Old 04-14-2010 | 01:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Landjet
Looks great George. Keep tinkering and some day you will have something. LOL.... Keep up the good work.
Thanks. Know our tinkering was done with consistent development, and final, hopeful results.
Old 04-14-2010 | 02:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DDP
So will the IC be permanently attached to your front bumper?

I like it because it's different. Similar to Corelone, but different. The vertical IC route is the better way with the constraints of the body. But then you run into poor end tank design and hard pipe routing, it's a toss up really.
Yes, but with proper give at the attachment points. Nothing will be welded to the bumper. Flex has been accounted into the attachment points.
Old 04-14-2010 | 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by George D
Yes, but with proper give at the attachment points. Nothing will be welded to the bumper. Flex has been accounted into the attachment points.
So that's a temp bracket holding it in place?
Old 04-14-2010 | 02:17 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by ehall
So that's a temp bracket holding it in place?
Yes, notice no radiator? All will have flex bushings in place once we get everything in place and spaced as appropriate.

I'll post more once done. Just wanted to share some neat stuff we are doing.


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