buddd

i think the alarm bypass is incorrect.

when i bypass it per clarks instructions the gauges are on like when the key is in the ON position.
this can't be right..

i found an extra piece of wire with two spade connectors on the floor under the ecu area, i think it fell out of the alarm bypass setup, which looked like this before i touched it.



if i added another wire into that mix could it fix my problem?

gruhsy

I completely agree with ski. you need to pull your starter and hook a set of jumper cables to it from a battery and see if it engages. If you kept trying to start your car before, you may have cooked your starter. A starter is not meant to be run for extended period of time. Also try and smack your starter hard with a solid rubber mallet and see if is just stuck.

I was having trouble the other day starting my diesel truck. After cranking about 25 times giving about 2 minutes between tries; I crawled underneath and touched the starter and it was very hot to the touch.
The temperatures was also below freezing.... Had to replace my positive cable. this was also a brand new starter.

Hope thats all it is

good luck
Jason

buddd

ok, i'll pull the starter tomorrow. but i thought that because that smaller + wire off the starter i checked wasnt showing 12v while trying to start means that the starter isnt even getting the power? or am i wrong?

theedge

That won't get you a reading. You need to touch the black probe to the starter bolts mounting it to the bellhousing, and the red probe to each of the wires. You'll need a helper to keep the key held in the start position, or preferably get creative so you are not under the car in case it cranks.

If you get 12+ volts on the big wire, and 12+ volts on the smaller wire when the key is in start, then grounds and power and ignition switch should all be good and it is likely the starter.

buddd

really? i got 12v to the big wire with the ground like that. anywho before i pull the starter tomorrow i'll recheck it with a different ground. the wires are long enough on my multimeter probes that i can sit in the car with them hooked up and watch the multimeter so thats not a problem.

Landjet

After thinking off and on today I was going to say what Ski said. Go back to the basic stuff, make sure the batt is still in good enough shape to start the car. I know you said you ran it down, make sure it is still capabible of starting the car and no bad cells. Make sure all connections are clean and tight, and then as Ski said take the starter off and make sure it is good. I know it all sounds very basic but at one time or another all of this stuff has plagued one of my vehicles. Thats why it makes it hard for me to believe it is much more involved than that as your car started before the batt ran down.

minho78

Did you tap the starter with a hammer, meanwhile someone is trying to crank it? Could the ignition switch go bad? Where you located in CT?
There's plenty of 951 owners arround you maybe someone will be able to help you. Good luck.

Ski

Any update?

spyder348

yeah really im waiting to hear, my geuss is shot starter or bad ground because of the .18v thingy.

buddd

sorry guys i had to drive my gf to work this morn and last night, going to pull it right now and get back to you guys!

spyder348

we dont pay your salary take your time lol. i have to drive my gf everywhere lately too all this damn snow.

buddd

haha yeap, took her to work yesterday on the 400ex lol got a few looks while sitting in traffic.

spyder348

you install injector resistors for your 72's?

spyder348

hey green m3 before i bought a bunch of 944's i had a 99 green m3 loved it and 94 348ferrari

buddd

that green one was my 4th m3, i love em.

and no resistors yet. i'm going to get the car started and drivable then i'll go ahead and wire em in.