Just did big turbo, LR stg. 2 maf, new injectors, new chip... won't start??? ***VIDEO
#46
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Old starters die after lots of cranking. They can over heat. I have had an old stock one die.
This is assuming that it is getting power to the solenoid which is the smaller wire, and that ground wires are connected at the bellhousing and the white 2 pin plug behind the booster is connected.
If all that is good, then measure the voltage on both wires at the starter. The big thick one should have 12 volts at all times, the smaller one should have 12 volts when the key is in start position and no other time.
If all that checks out, your starter has packed it in. Get it rebuilt, rebuild jobs aren't too expensive.
This is assuming that it is getting power to the solenoid which is the smaller wire, and that ground wires are connected at the bellhousing and the white 2 pin plug behind the booster is connected.
If all that is good, then measure the voltage on both wires at the starter. The big thick one should have 12 volts at all times, the smaller one should have 12 volts when the key is in start position and no other time.
If all that checks out, your starter has packed it in. Get it rebuilt, rebuild jobs aren't too expensive.
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You need to try to crank it by hand before you do anything else. You said you smlled fuel. The motor could have hydra locked with fuel if too much got in. If you cant turn it by hand, take one spark plug out at a time and try again until it turns, or until you did all 4 plugs.
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![](http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6047/starterz.jpg)
i just pulled the multimeter out and checked the starter.
i get a constant 12.00v to the larger wire shown in the top part of this picture, but when hooked up like shown in the pic, i only get 00.018v when cranking.
the starter isnt getting the signal. what would cause this?
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Wait, I think you just checked the starter solenoid. It could be the ignition switch or as someone else said it could be the factory alarm system.
#1 First, locate the alarm module. It's a black box approximately the size of a pack of cigarettes. On early 944s (pre-1985.5), it's located behind the radio in the back of the center console. On late model 944s, it's located behind the kick panel in the passenger's footwell near above the DME computer.
#2 Disconnect the electrical plug from the alarm module.
#3 Connect one jumper from Pin 1 to Pin 4 on the large module connector. Connect the second jumper from Pin 7 to Pin 8 on the large module connector.
#4 Attempt to start the vehicle to verify that the alarm bypass was successful. If the jumpers were installed to troubleshoot a "no start" condition and the car still does not start, the alarm module is not the problem.
This might help:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-23.pdf
#1 First, locate the alarm module. It's a black box approximately the size of a pack of cigarettes. On early 944s (pre-1985.5), it's located behind the radio in the back of the center console. On late model 944s, it's located behind the kick panel in the passenger's footwell near above the DME computer.
#2 Disconnect the electrical plug from the alarm module.
#3 Connect one jumper from Pin 1 to Pin 4 on the large module connector. Connect the second jumper from Pin 7 to Pin 8 on the large module connector.
#4 Attempt to start the vehicle to verify that the alarm bypass was successful. If the jumpers were installed to troubleshoot a "no start" condition and the car still does not start, the alarm module is not the problem.
This might help:
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-23.pdf
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i still have the pass floor taken apart in case of needing to be down there and this is what i see...
![](http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6725/alarmh.jpg)
...this looks different from clarks garages instructions? doesnt the two pin connector need to be jumped somewhere also?
i hope this is the problem!!!
how should i re wire the setup?
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i rewired per clarks garages instructions and with pin 7 and 8, and 1 and 4.
when i connect pins 1 and 4 the gauges light up like would when the key is in the ON position, is this normal? it will do this even with the key out.
i tried to crank it again and still the same as before, no crank.
when i connect pins 1 and 4 the gauges light up like would when the key is in the ON position, is this normal? it will do this even with the key out.
i tried to crank it again and still the same as before, no crank.
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i rewired per clarks garages instructions and with pin 7 and 8, and 1 and 4.
when i connect pins 1 and 4 the gauges light up like would when the key is in the ON position, is this normal? it will do this even with the key out.
i tried to crank it again and still the same as before, no crank.
when i connect pins 1 and 4 the gauges light up like would when the key is in the ON position, is this normal? it will do this even with the key out.
i tried to crank it again and still the same as before, no crank.
As a last resort you could always go back and put all the old stuff back on.
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Well, i wouldn't have advised redoing the wiring that wasnt the problem before. You might be creating more loop holes to jump through if you do end up replacing your starter which seems to be the apparent cause of your no Crank/start problem.
As a last resort you could always go back and put all the old stuff back on.
As a last resort you could always go back and put all the old stuff back on.
and putting old parts on wont fix a no crank..
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These are the only 3 things i can figure out at the moment
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Im just trying to introduce some logic to the problem. If the car started fine before you put all this stuff on it. then that means you either put something on incorrectly or something happened when you were installing all your stuff....... or the unusual but maybe not so unusual on a 25 year old car "old part going bad at the wrong time" Problem
These are the only 3 things i can figure out at the moment
These are the only 3 things i can figure out at the moment
the car not cranking is what i need to figure out.