ramius665

I've been considering a repaint on my 951 for a few years now. I've had it over to half a dozen shops in 3 states for estimates to get a feel for price and quality. Still haven't pulled the trigger though.

I totally agree about researching your painter. Of all the shops I went to, only 2 had portfolios of previous work done by each individual painter. That really stood out to me as a way to find the "right guy" to do the work. It's like researching a business partner before you enter into a partnership. You want to be comfortable with their experience, and make sure that their vision matches yours.

I am curious to know what others have paid for a high quality repaint though. I had estimates anywhere from $3500-15k with estimates completion times from 3 weeks to 6 months. That's part of the reason I haven't gotten it repainted, I can't imagine not driving my Porsche for 6 months!

xsboost90

i agree- Dupont Chromabase is awsome- their clears are great but the Nason dupont clear is pretty decent. The Standox stuff is not readily available as far as i know.

Tedro951

This is just a general statement, and there are exceptions, but the difference between a 3500 and a 6000 job are potentially significant. The difference between 6000 and 15,000 are probably much less detectable and appreciated only by extremely discriminating types. Not knocking my car, or yours, but I doubt we'll have collector value that would warrant a big dollar refinish. If you're doing all the grunt work (trim removal, etc) its possible to get a 3500 job that would satisfy you for a LONG time. Anyone considering this type of outlay is probably going to take good care of the finish. Don't get me wrong, I believe there is a big difference between Nason and Sikkens, but taking care of the finish will help mitigate them. Lets not confuse our requirements with fleet requirements.

Chris White

The best paint to use is the paint that your painter uses....
That sounds sort of self serving - but you should pick your painter and let him use the product that he/she is familiar with. Most mordern paints will do a fine job...but not all most modern painters can claim the same thing.

C ANDERSON

Well said Chris

You should never be the trial for a paint that a painter is not familiar with.

DanaT

On a completely un-related note...

My car suffers from Colorado road syndrome. They dont use salt for snow and put gravel down. Car doesnt get driven in the winter, but the gravel stays around until August. This puts small little rock pits in the front and in front of the rear wheel.

It seems that it should be possible to pull of the bumper cover and have it repainted (Porsche black is PURE black with no blue or metallic). I dont think a 951 was factory basecoat/clearcoat (i always get a little black on the rag when i polish it).

How well does it work on the 951 to just have some areas painted and blended?

-Dana

Tedro951

Having the bumper done is no biggie, either on or off the car. The skill of the painter and the process used will make the difference on the blend on your rear quarter. A sharp eye can usually detect blends, but most people walk right by and never notice. On some colors, we would hold our breath when the customer picked up the car, watching them pore over it looking for evidence!

Burma Shave

I was making a recommendation based on ease of use and availablity. Most jobbers don't sell mixed Standox to walk in customers, only to shops. In addition, Standox clears are far more suited to heated downdraft booths. Nason 497-00 clear is very similar to the old DuPont 7500s...you know how easy that stuff was to spray. Btw, I saw some nice lacquer jobs at the Brumos museum and I had forgotten how deep the shine could be. Depth of image on urethanes is good but not that good. Durability on the other hand...

Burma Shave

Correct on the Standox. As for Nason clear vs. DuPont, the average diy guy will never know the difference between a $200/gal and a $100/gal clearcoat as long as they put enough on for uv protection and they will probably buff anyway. Truth be told it doesn't cost a paint company much more to produce the $200 clear than it does the $100 gallon. For those who aren't in the business, Nason, Standox and Spies Hecker are owned, manufactured and distributed by DuPont.

C ANDERSON

That old 7500 was was the most forgiving clear I mostly used v7500 .
The depth of lacquer will never be duplicated. by the way there is still one of my last lacquer jobs still around and still looks great but does not see much sun shine .

What clear is on your 951 ?

The new owner is really enjoying it. We are replacing belts Sunday just to be fresh.

Clifton

lejams

This is good information that helps quite a bit, although like ramius I still am no closer to making a decision. I need to go back and talk with the shops again and delve deeper into their procedures.

I'm a little disappointed to hear the negative comments on the SW, albeit experience I respect. The one fellow who uses the SW was the guy that would take three month's. I think he would do a very good job, but he's only willing to use the SW. His price was reasonable too. But if the SW is really not up to task, I just assume pass there.

I certainly get the pick the painter priority above the paint itself, but I would like to have both. It's not likely that the 951 will ever deserve a high dollar paint job, but I appreciate quality just the same. Plus, I can't stand paying for ****ty work and wasting money. If anyone can suggest someone in Atlanta, I'm willing to talk with them.

Racing Porsche

Hey Jim,

I worked at EIS with Keith a few years ago. I currently own a Silver Rose. It is in the shop for a respray. The body shop is in Roswell off Sun valley across for Andretti Speed. He will be done in a few weeks. This would be a great chance to see his work. His name is Bryson the shop is Wagen Werks 404-839-3359. Give this guy a call.
Hope all is well.
Mitch

gt37vgt

plus infinity to Chris's comments the choice of gun hand is much more in portent..
car painting requires commitment to quality time. time time and patience patience patience

lejams

Thanks Mitch, I'll check it out.

CPR

Paint "shrinkage" can often be traced to a poor prep job, where the paint does not take well (underlying wax is one dominant cause).

As for paint PPG or Sikkens is what we have used although I am sure the others are just as well for a SS. I am not sure about these quotes for $1500 in material cost. The paint wholesale is only +/- $400 no matter which manufacturer you choose. Prep materials are a $100 at best (no bodywork). for a complete prep/respray (lights in) you should be in the $1900-$2400 range depending on locale.

You can also remove the lenses/mastic and rear valence (for seperate spray and save maybe a $100-$150......

Keep in mind alot of shops are slow this time of year, and CASH jobs can get you in the $1400-$1500 range all day.

Just a thought...