AMF relocation project
#1
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AMF relocation project
I had some free time over the holidays. I made the AFM to turbo adapter(J-boot replacement) and a friend made the intercooler pipe and AFM to air filter pipe.
I do not know how much it has changed my HP/TQ but it does spin the tires more in second gear.
I do not know how much it has changed my HP/TQ but it does spin the tires more in second gear.
#3
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The intercooler to throttle body piece is just some mild steel tubes welded together. I wanted aluminum but my buddy did not have the right stock on hand. My friend bead rolled the big tube(2.5" OD) and machined the two smaller tubes(3/4" and 1"OD) on a lathe. He then welded them up and sandblasted them. I painted it with aluminum look paint mainly to keep it from rusting. I found a 2 3/4" to 2 1/2" 45 degree silicone elbow for the pipe to throttle body connection and 2 1/2 inch silicone straight tube for the intercooler to pipe connection. The stock intercooler pipe is only 2" OD so I've got some extra room to breath through mine.
The Filter to AFM is just 3" OD aluminum tube bent to about 45 degrees and bead rolled on each end.
The AFM to turbo piece was the hardest to figure out. I looked at having a custom piece made and didn't because of the cost. I'm glad I didn't because I was going to offset the intake from the exit by about 3/4 of an inch to line up with the AFM a bit better(or so I thought).
I ended up going with two pieces of exhaust adapter tubing. One going from 3" OD down to 2.5" OD and another from 2.5" OD down to 2" OD. I connected those together, drilled the two holes for the smaller ports, I cut down a hose barb at a slight angle for the blow off valve connection(it's 3/4" OD and I wish I would have done 1 inch). Welded it all up, filed and sanded the inside as much as possible for smooth airflow and painted it to match.
I built a custom bracket to support the AFM but it does not seem to need it. The silicone hoses between the pieces are so short that they are holding the AFM a fraction of an inch over the bracket. At least it's there if the AFM tries to move around when I hit a bump in the road.
The Filter to AFM is just 3" OD aluminum tube bent to about 45 degrees and bead rolled on each end.
The AFM to turbo piece was the hardest to figure out. I looked at having a custom piece made and didn't because of the cost. I'm glad I didn't because I was going to offset the intake from the exit by about 3/4 of an inch to line up with the AFM a bit better(or so I thought).
I ended up going with two pieces of exhaust adapter tubing. One going from 3" OD down to 2.5" OD and another from 2.5" OD down to 2" OD. I connected those together, drilled the two holes for the smaller ports, I cut down a hose barb at a slight angle for the blow off valve connection(it's 3/4" OD and I wish I would have done 1 inch). Welded it all up, filed and sanded the inside as much as possible for smooth airflow and painted it to match.
I built a custom bracket to support the AFM but it does not seem to need it. The silicone hoses between the pieces are so short that they are holding the AFM a fraction of an inch over the bracket. At least it's there if the AFM tries to move around when I hit a bump in the road.
#6
nice one keep going .. put the strait tube in now from the turbo to the inter cooler just use a hose tail loose that banjo junk . and make a little wall up from the rail to keep the hot air out of the air filter ..
#7
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I've had someone express interest in a set of these pipes. Is anyone else interested and what would you pay for a set. Just the pipes, no connectors, hose clamps, etc.
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
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#8
I've had someone express interest in a set of these pipes. Is anyone else interested and what would you pay for a set. Just the pipes, no connectors, hose clamps, etc.
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
#10
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Just so everyone understands the factory IC to TB pipe will no longer fit if you move the AFM and the new IC to TB pipe will not fit if you leave the AFM in it's factory location. Stated another way(for full disclosure), if you move the AFM, you need a new IC to TB pipe. And if you want just the IC to TB pipe, you need to move the AFM or replace it with a MAF.
I have not tested it to be sure but I think any of the other hardpipes(SFR, Lindsey, etc) will work if you just relocate the AFM.
I also believe that the new IC to TB will work if you have a MAF.
I have not tested it to be sure but I think any of the other hardpipes(SFR, Lindsey, etc) will work if you just relocate the AFM.
I also believe that the new IC to TB will work if you have a MAF.
#11
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NICE! I was just trying to think how to run the Rocks AFM to the 3" inlet on the turbo for awhile until he gets a maf and stuff. Sucks you have to change the IC line though.
#12
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I've had someone express interest in a set of these pipes. Is anyone else interested and what would you pay for a set. Just the pipes, no connectors, hose clamps, etc.
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
I could do up a whole kit with the filter, connectors, etc but that would be a bunch more.
The j-boot replacement pipe has NO provision for the AOS hose so you would need an AOS catch can of some sort. you could do some kind of a "T" connector and do both the diverter valve(blow off valve) and the AOS though the "T" into the j-boot replacement tube but I honestly have NO idea what that would do to you system or even your engine. I think it could be a VERY bad idea. Having boosted air trying to force it's way down the AOS tube into your engine could be harmful(at least I would think the potential for harm is there).
Other points to consider is that you would have to trim off a lot of the bracket on the back of your headlight and trim some of the support bracket that holds the headlight moving mechanism. I spent some time with a hack saw and a file to make this fit. It does not effect the function of your headlights. If you look closely at the headlight bracket and support in the last picture, you can see what I did. I'm getting some minor contact with the headlight bracket and the filter so I will be trimming it some more.
So anyway, is there any interest?
If you run a catch can without a return to the turbo inlet you might be asking for trouble elsewhere.
https://rennlist.com/forums/3457108-post36.html
Last edited by markl951; 01-16-2010 at 02:31 PM.
#14
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I did not include a port for the AOS line because there isn't enough room to do so. The entire adapter can only be three inches long total from the AFM to the turbo. It could be longer if you remove the headlights.
The space where this 3" long adapter sits is surrounded by the alternator, turbo water lines and turbo water pump.
I am debating the small tube that connects to the fuel vapor purge system. What do you guys think? Should I keep it or is it unnecessary?