svtlrtls

Hi Guys and Gals,

I'm replacing my cam housing gasket and I'm having a hard time with the 8mm allen bolts on the cam housing (the 6 along the top, not the 6mm ones close to the exhaust).

I've done the "waking up" as posted on Clark's Garage and I've applied WD40 and let them sit for 2 days.

I've applied about 40+- ft-lbs of torque and I'm afraid that I'll strip the heads if I push too much harder as the allen head is wedging very securely in the bolt.

I've been known to be ham-fisted and I don't want to repeat that debacle.

What else should I try?

Cheers

rlm328

They may be like a teenager and are hard to wake up. Try waking them up again with a lttle more gusto. Also you may want to use a penetrating fluid such as PB Blaster instead of WD-40.

KuHL 951

I always take my impact wrench (1/4" drive impact allen socket, long extension) on the softest setting and just let it tap for awhile. I then use a standard ratchet and they are always easy to move. I don't even have to soak them and have never broken one yet. 40 ft-lbs is crazy tight for the cam tower unless someone used Loc-Tite.

Techno Duck

Those can be a real pain to get off and in my opinion are one of the worse parts of needing to do a headgasket job. The first time I removed those on my n/a and 951 they broke loose after some major force with a very loud snap. The best advice I can give is to use a high quality, non ball head Allen socket. I have used Allen keys with vice grips on the end before but much easier with a proper socket. Make sure you loosen in a typical torqe sequence, doing the outsides first and working your way in. Loosen each a little bit until all are broken loose or the cam tower binds making removal much more difficult.

alxdgr8

I've never had a problem (done it on two cars) by using a non-ball allen and a small 1ft pipe on the short end (or a 10mm deep socket and 6" extension).

Tom M'Guinn

Yes, use a straight bit, not a ball head. Also, if often helps to use a 1/2" wrench, rather than 3/8" since you have so much more control that way. Keep the bit centered/straight and fully seated with one hand while you pull the wrench with the other. The bolts generally won't strip unless the bit is not fully seated, or unless you pull the bit to an angle as you try to loosen the bolt (which is why a bigger wrench can help, so you have more control). If they've been on for a while, they will often break loose with a loud cracking sound . Other than using controlled force, not sure there is any way around it.

Chris White

If you are having trouble with the aluminum plugs just wait until you get to the bolts....
40 ft lbs it not a big deal - you won't strip anything when loosening - if you do then the threads were seized and needed fixing anyway.

svtlrtls

Thanks for the input guys. I got the plugs out.
Now, as Chris points out, on to the housing bolts themselves. I do have a ball head allen key that I won't use.

Cheers

Chris White

It helps to tap the allen key in to the bolt with a hammer - just to make sure its well seated. The breakaway toruque is very high on these bolts....the crack you hear when they come loose will make you think something jsut broke!

clangjr

I had that same CRACK sound when loosening the bolts on my intake manifold. Scares the crap out of you the first time and you start wondering how you're going to get that broken bolt out, only to realize that it's fine.
Chuck

CurtP

It is always recommended replacing those bolts, but OEM ones are very expensive.

I'm going to ARP 12-point bolts on my car. The bolt specs are grade 8.8, M8x1.25, 35mm under head length. The same bolts are used on the intake too.