ISV replace without pulling intake?
#2
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Never tried it, but I don't know how you could loosen the ISV bracket w/o having the intake off. It would probably make the job take longer than just removing the intake, IMO.
#3
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Pulling the intake is so easy ... c'mon
Leave the fuel rail attached to it and just undo the bolts to the cam tower. Along with all other attachment I can usually have it off (actually folded over the cam tower) in 5 minutes.
Leave the fuel rail attached to it and just undo the bolts to the cam tower. Along with all other attachment I can usually have it off (actually folded over the cam tower) in 5 minutes.
#4
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My new mechanic fixed the wiring problem but he also said if the intake get's pulled off again then 'all bets are off'
#5
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Maybe if you use a cutting torch....
If your mechanic has a problem with removing the intake manifold then you should have a problem with your mechanic...
If your mechanic has a problem with removing the intake manifold then you should have a problem with your mechanic...
#6
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What Chris said in regards to your "mechanic". It is less than a 5 minute job to get it off. I have had mine off several times with and without the fuel rail.
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#8
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****! sorry i was wrong i just went to check the invoice.... it was 6.5 hrs for changing belts, rollars, water pump, thermostat,all seals. It was 2 hrs for fixing oil leak at turbo, remove intake.
#9
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Hmmm. My ISV isn't full-on attached/bolted down to anything. The ISV itself has a bracket wrapped around it, and the bracket has these little rubber nubs on one side. Then, bolted to the block, is another bracket, also with rubber nubs on it. When the ISV is "in place", the two rubber nubs line up. From what I can tell, these separate nubs were never one nub at some point in time, they look like they're meant to be this way. The only thing that keeps the ISV in position is the ISV hoses themselves (sorta like the heater control valve.)
So at least on my car, if I pull/tug on the hoses, I can get the ISV out from under the intake manifold towards the front of the motor.
#10
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Jim: After more looking it appears that mine is in there "loose' also; just attached by hoses and not bolted down.
Hey Blown: well, I did not think about pulling with fuel rail still attached. that would make it a much easier job.
Hey Blown: well, I did not think about pulling with fuel rail still attached. that would make it a much easier job.
#11
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OmniGLH,
You're partially correct. The "nub" that you're referring to is a solid piece of rubber with studs on each end. If yours line up, it's because the rubber is broken. I don't have the part number in front of me, but they're about $5/ea from pelicanparts. Not that it will negatively affect the longevity of the ISV, but if you're in there it's worth the $10.
You're partially correct. The "nub" that you're referring to is a solid piece of rubber with studs on each end. If yours line up, it's because the rubber is broken. I don't have the part number in front of me, but they're about $5/ea from pelicanparts. Not that it will negatively affect the longevity of the ISV, but if you're in there it's worth the $10.
#12
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OmniGLH,
You're partially correct. The "nub" that you're referring to is a solid piece of rubber with studs on each end. If yours line up, it's because the rubber is broken. I don't have the part number in front of me, but they're about $5/ea from pelicanparts. Not that it will negatively affect the longevity of the ISV, but if you're in there it's worth the $10.
You're partially correct. The "nub" that you're referring to is a solid piece of rubber with studs on each end. If yours line up, it's because the rubber is broken. I don't have the part number in front of me, but they're about $5/ea from pelicanparts. Not that it will negatively affect the longevity of the ISV, but if you're in there it's worth the $10.
The nubs on both brackets look like they were intended to be separate. I mean, they're perfectly smooth, with perfect edges. It doesn't at all look like it's failed and just worn smooth.
I'm gonna have a look at the fiche diagrams... now I'm intrugued.
#14
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They're called: Bonded Rubber Mounting (Idle Stabilizer) x2 928 110 191 10
The only reason I know that they are one piece: They were so burned up from the engine fire that I had to research WHAT they were to figure out how to replace them.
The only reason I know that they are one piece: They were so burned up from the engine fire that I had to research WHAT they were to figure out how to replace them.