Failed California emission badly
#1
Failed California emission badly
Test results attached. I did screw up and leave the the Throttle Position sensor unplugged. I had just finished the venturi delete and missed it. That shouldnt have effected the emission (I guess).
Vacuum lines are new.
Venturi Delete - new.
O2 sensor is new.
ICV is new.
Fuel Pressure Regulator new.
Fuel Pressure Damper new.
Timed valve new.
Turbo cut off valve new.
Soooooo What to do now? Where do I start looking?
Results
Vacuum lines are new.
Venturi Delete - new.
O2 sensor is new.
ICV is new.
Fuel Pressure Regulator new.
Fuel Pressure Damper new.
Timed valve new.
Turbo cut off valve new.
Soooooo What to do now? Where do I start looking?
Results
#2
Plug your TPS back in or you will never pass. Is your AFM flapper door closing all the way? Last July my 951 looked like yours even after a new cat and O2 sensor. Then I found my AFM door was sticking about 1/4"-1/2" from closing and the spring tension was all shot. It tricks the computer into thinking the car is running lean and dumps fuel to compensate for it causing a super rich condition. The AFM door should virtually snap shut against the stop. Good thing that yours was a pre-test, if that 'gross polluter' comes up on the real test you have to go to a 'test only' facility for the rest of the life of the car.
Good Luck
Good Luck
#3
Go to the muffler shop and put the biggest NEW "real" cat on it. Make sure you get the car hot before testing by driving at least 30 minutes preferably on the freeway. Don't turn the car off when you get to the test station, leave it running until they start the test. Make sure the air filter is clean and the oil has been changed. You don't want to be branded a gross polluter by the smog *****.
#4
AFM - I'll check this afternoon.
NEW CAT? ARRRGGGGGG! Man, I dont want to lay that kind of cash out! But if it comes to that...
I did just changed the oil and used Brad Penn Oil.
Also just changed the plugs. New Bosch.
NEW CAT? ARRRGGGGGG! Man, I dont want to lay that kind of cash out! But if it comes to that...
I did just changed the oil and used Brad Penn Oil.
Also just changed the plugs. New Bosch.
#5
Is the car chipped? If it is swap the OE chip back in the DME. Is this the first time you have smogged it since you bought it? Try this: When you start it cold the first thing in the morning place a clean white paper towel over the exhaust and see if it gets black quick and blowing raw fuel; even a good cat can't overcome a bad fuel map or failed injector. You might just have a leaky injector or two. Were all the old plugs evenly beige or were they black and sooty? You don't say what mods are on the car so it's hard to say what it might be at this point. If you do go with a new cat I had a properly sized MagnaFlo cat installed by a good shop in EG for $225. Do not buy a cheap junker cat. If you still have the huge trashcan style OE cat on there now it's toast at 150K especially if you have been running rich for very long.
Last edited by KuHL 951; 10-10-2009 at 09:46 PM.
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#8
Is the car chipped? If it is swap the OE chip back in the DME. Is this the first time you have smogged it since you bought it? Try this: When you start it cold the first thing in the morning place a clean white paper towel over the exhaust and see if it gets black quick and blowing raw fuel; even a good cat can't overcome a bad fuel map or failed injector. You might just have a leaky injector or two. Were all the old plugs evenly beige or were they black and sooty? You don't say what mods are on the car so it's hard to say what it might be at this point. If you do go with a new cat I had a properly sized MagnaFlo cat installed by a good shop in EG for $225. Do not buy a cheap junker cat. If you still have the huge trashcan style OE cat on there now it's toast at 150K especially if you have been running rich for very long.
The plugs were nasty black but I attributed that to the gap being way off - too close.
The car had the cat removed when I got it. I just put a used factory one on there that had around 60k on it.
I had let the car sit after doing the venturi delete. When it was all put back together, I did notice that there was black stuff on the garage floor at the tail pipe. I thought it was just condensation from the cat. so that is a sign of bad injectors?
#9
This is the first time I have tried to smog it. It wasnt really running when I bought it. It is bone stock, no mods.
The plugs were nasty black but I attributed that to the gap being way off - too close.
The car had the cat removed when I got it. I just put a used factory one on there that had around 60k on it.
I had let the car sit after doing the venturi delete. When it was all put back together, I did notice that there was black stuff on the garage floor at the tail pipe. I thought it was just condensation from the cat. so that is a sign of bad injectors?
The plugs were nasty black but I attributed that to the gap being way off - too close.
The car had the cat removed when I got it. I just put a used factory one on there that had around 60k on it.
I had let the car sit after doing the venturi delete. When it was all put back together, I did notice that there was black stuff on the garage floor at the tail pipe. I thought it was just condensation from the cat. so that is a sign of bad injectors?
#11
The black crap spitting onto the ground from the tailpipe is unburnt fuel and your smog test confirms you are running very, very rich. You've replaced the FPR (hopefully with a 2.5 bar and not a 3.0 bar) if you are stock. If the car has sat for awhile it's very possible the injectors are fouled and need servicing. Witchhunter is a great place to send funky injectors if that is the problem. Does the car run well otherwise? Does it smoke under hard boost, backfire, or smell like a gas tanker crashed when you idle? How does it run with the TPS connected?
It runs pretty good now. It had vacuum leaks like crazy. The odor of the exhaust is not quite like a tanker crash but it certainly is not right. It sort of smells like my 1970 Mustang with a 351.
I have not notice it smoking (however I will verify this tomorrow), no backfire at all. Runs better with the TPS connected.
#12
The FPR is P/N 944-110-198-03-M14. I think it is right. The car sat for a long long long time before I ever got it.
It runs pretty good now. It had vacuum leaks like crazy. The odor of the exhaust is not quite like a tanker crash but it certainly is not right. It sort of smells like my 1970 Mustang with a 351.
I have not notice it smoking (however I will verify this tomorrow), no backfire at all. Runs better with the TPS connected.
It runs pretty good now. It had vacuum leaks like crazy. The odor of the exhaust is not quite like a tanker crash but it certainly is not right. It sort of smells like my 1970 Mustang with a 351.
I have not notice it smoking (however I will verify this tomorrow), no backfire at all. Runs better with the TPS connected.
#13
Personally I would try another pre-test again with the TPS connected and see how close you are to passing before throwing new parts at it. The Mustang comment is funny though...nothing like a big Holley to stink the place up Again, injectors that have been sitting for a long time with bad gas can cause all sorts of issues with AF ratios. If your DME temp sensor is bad it can also act like the car is always under a cold start/rich scenario but they usually aren't a normal cause of running rich. Your failing numbers are very similar to mine before I found my AFM problem...it was driving me nuts!
Does witchhunter rebuild the injectors? From the website it looks like they just clean and test. I found these guys that sell rebuilds for $29.99 http://www.fuelinjector.citymaker.co...INJECTORS.html .
If the injectors on my car are dumping too much fuel, it doesnt seem that a good cleaning would improve the situation. Or am I missing something?
I got to get this figured out soon. My temp registration runs out on the 30th.
#14
Personally I would try another pre-test again with the TPS connected and see how close you are to passing before throwing new parts at it. The Mustang comment is funny though...nothing like a big Holley to stink the place up Again, injectors that have been sitting for a long time with bad gas can cause all sorts of issues with AF ratios. If your DME temp sensor is bad it can also act like the car is always under a cold start/rich scenario but they usually aren't a normal cause of running rich. Your failing numbers are very similar to mine before I found my AFM problem...it was driving me nuts!
http://www.clarks-garage.com/pdf-manual/elect-22.pdf
I would do these things, then start looking for parts to buy... just replacing pieces can get very expensive quickly...
#15
I had the same issues. I put a couple of bottles of "Seafoam" through it and went with a magnaflo cat. Passed with fying colors. The Seafoam makes a big difference. I find that it is the best injector cleaner out there.