(Pile on) Tips for making your 944 Turbo reliable at the track.
09-05-2009, 08:25 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
(Pile on) Tips for making your 944 Turbo reliable at the track.
Thought I'd start a thread where everyone could pile on about their best suggestions for keeping a 944 turbo together at the track. There are lots of little suggestions scattered across various threads, but I thought I'd get one going where we could try to smash everything together...
For instance:
Wheel bearings, tighter or looser than the factory's "just able to move with the tip of a finger on a screwdriver"?
Intake hoses: Run T-Bar clamps over hoses with more coverage so you don't blow one off.
Etc.
please pile on.
For instance:
Wheel bearings, tighter or looser than the factory's "just able to move with the tip of a finger on a screwdriver"?
Intake hoses: Run T-Bar clamps over hoses with more coverage so you don't blow one off.
Etc.
please pile on.
09-05-2009, 08:50 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
FWIW, here's a few from my experience/observations:
1. Limit your modifications. These cars are super reliable when tracked in stock form. Adding a modest chip/FPR/reliaboost and a test pipe doesn't seem to have a negative impact on reliability. When you start talking about bigger turbos, MAF or MAPs, etc., you add a lot of variables, a lot of extra HP, a lot of extra heat, and the reliability suffers on the track. Some guys have no problems, but many with highly modified cars just seem to be forever screwing around with them and ending up on the trailer early every weekend. Many who have eventually gone the LS1 route got there this way. Think about whether you really need more than 260hp to have fun before you start modding.
2. Add a KISS oil cooler setup, second stock cooler, or a larger single cooler. My oil pressure at idle is never less than 3 bar after a track session since I put the KISS in, and I never get less than 4 bar of oil pressure under load no matter the RPM, temp, how long I've been out, etc. A 45 minute session in 95 degree heat is no problem.
3. Make sure that the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff. I replaced my radiator and cooling hoses a couple of years ago to be safe, although I have to admit that I didn't see any change in temps from doing this.
4. Replace all of the vacuum hoses and do the venturi delete.
5. If you don't know the age of the fuel filter, distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires, replace them. It goes without saying that you should replace the plugs and air filter every 1-2 years.
6. Send your injectors to be cleaned/balanced at witchhunter.com (or RC engineering, or wherever). It's worth the $100 to know that you aren't starving a cylinder.
7. Replace the caster blocks with 968 blocks. If yours are original, they're shot.
8. The stock headers are going to crack eventually. When they do, replace them with SFR stage 1 headers and move on.
Of all of the above, #1 (however unpopular) and #2 are most important in my experience. Everything else is pretty basic.
1. Limit your modifications. These cars are super reliable when tracked in stock form. Adding a modest chip/FPR/reliaboost and a test pipe doesn't seem to have a negative impact on reliability. When you start talking about bigger turbos, MAF or MAPs, etc., you add a lot of variables, a lot of extra HP, a lot of extra heat, and the reliability suffers on the track. Some guys have no problems, but many with highly modified cars just seem to be forever screwing around with them and ending up on the trailer early every weekend. Many who have eventually gone the LS1 route got there this way. Think about whether you really need more than 260hp to have fun before you start modding.
2. Add a KISS oil cooler setup, second stock cooler, or a larger single cooler. My oil pressure at idle is never less than 3 bar after a track session since I put the KISS in, and I never get less than 4 bar of oil pressure under load no matter the RPM, temp, how long I've been out, etc. A 45 minute session in 95 degree heat is no problem.
3. Make sure that the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff. I replaced my radiator and cooling hoses a couple of years ago to be safe, although I have to admit that I didn't see any change in temps from doing this.
4. Replace all of the vacuum hoses and do the venturi delete.
5. If you don't know the age of the fuel filter, distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires, replace them. It goes without saying that you should replace the plugs and air filter every 1-2 years.
6. Send your injectors to be cleaned/balanced at witchhunter.com (or RC engineering, or wherever). It's worth the $100 to know that you aren't starving a cylinder.
7. Replace the caster blocks with 968 blocks. If yours are original, they're shot.
8. The stock headers are going to crack eventually. When they do, replace them with SFR stage 1 headers and move on.
Of all of the above, #1 (however unpopular) and #2 are most important in my experience. Everything else is pretty basic.
09-05-2009, 08:52 PM
#3
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FWIW, here's a few from my experience/observations:
1. Limit your modifications. These cars are super reliable when tracked in stock form. Adding a modest chip/FPR/reliaboost and a test pipe doesn't seem to have a negative impact on reliability. When you start talking about bigger turbos, MAF or MAPs, etc., you add a lot of variables, a lot of extra HP, a lot of extra heat, and the reliability suffers on the track. Some guys have no problems, but many with highly modified cars just seem to be forever screwing around with them and ending up on the trailer early every weekend. Many who have eventually gone the LS1 route got there this way. Think about whether you really need more than 260hp to have fun before you start modding.
2. Add a KISS oil cooler setup, second stock cooler, or a larger single cooler. My oil pressure at idle is never less than 3 bar after a track session since I put the KISS in, and I never get less than 4 bar of oil pressure under load no matter the RPM, temp, how long I've been out, etc. A 45 minute session in 95 degree heat is no problem.
3. Make sure that the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff. I replaced my radiator and cooling hoses a couple of years ago to be safe, although I have to admit that I didn't see any change in temps from doing this.
4. Replace all of the vacuum hoses and do the venturi delete.
5. If you don't know the age of the fuel filter, distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires, replace them. It goes without saying that you should replace the plugs and air filter every 1-2 years.
6. Send your injectors to be cleaned/balanced at witchhunter.com (or RC engineering, or wherever). It's worth the $100 to know that you aren't starving a cylinder.
7. Replace the caster blocks with 968 blocks. If yours are original, they're shot.
8. The stock headers are going to crack eventually. When they do, replace them with SFR stage 1 headers and move on.
Of all of the above, #1 (however unpopular) and #2 are most important in my experience. Everything else is pretty basic.
1. Limit your modifications. These cars are super reliable when tracked in stock form. Adding a modest chip/FPR/reliaboost and a test pipe doesn't seem to have a negative impact on reliability. When you start talking about bigger turbos, MAF or MAPs, etc., you add a lot of variables, a lot of extra HP, a lot of extra heat, and the reliability suffers on the track. Some guys have no problems, but many with highly modified cars just seem to be forever screwing around with them and ending up on the trailer early every weekend. Many who have eventually gone the LS1 route got there this way. Think about whether you really need more than 260hp to have fun before you start modding.
2. Add a KISS oil cooler setup, second stock cooler, or a larger single cooler. My oil pressure at idle is never less than 3 bar after a track session since I put the KISS in, and I never get less than 4 bar of oil pressure under load no matter the RPM, temp, how long I've been out, etc. A 45 minute session in 95 degree heat is no problem.
3. Make sure that the rest of the cooling system is up to snuff. I replaced my radiator and cooling hoses a couple of years ago to be safe, although I have to admit that I didn't see any change in temps from doing this.
4. Replace all of the vacuum hoses and do the venturi delete.
5. If you don't know the age of the fuel filter, distributor cap/rotor, and plug wires, replace them. It goes without saying that you should replace the plugs and air filter every 1-2 years.
6. Send your injectors to be cleaned/balanced at witchhunter.com (or RC engineering, or wherever). It's worth the $100 to know that you aren't starving a cylinder.
7. Replace the caster blocks with 968 blocks. If yours are original, they're shot.
8. The stock headers are going to crack eventually. When they do, replace them with SFR stage 1 headers and move on.
Of all of the above, #1 (however unpopular) and #2 are most important in my experience. Everything else is pretty basic.
09-05-2009, 11:32 PM
#7
Race Car
Short of having a backup car?
1. Drill and safety wire axle bolts (I think driver's side inner is worst?)
2. Replace con rod bearings frequently, add Accusump, etc.
1. Drill and safety wire axle bolts (I think driver's side inner is worst?)
2. Replace con rod bearings frequently, add Accusump, etc.
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09-06-2009, 10:12 AM
#8
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Oil cooler.
I am supprised that nobody mentioned it - track brake pads. If you go to a faster track the stock type pads will fade. Make sure there isn't any of the evil 'anti-squeal' goop on the pads / calipers.
Bring extra oil - do not be supprised to see it consume 1/2 a quart per session
I am supprised that nobody mentioned it - track brake pads. If you go to a faster track the stock type pads will fade. Make sure there isn't any of the evil 'anti-squeal' goop on the pads / calipers.
Bring extra oil - do not be supprised to see it consume 1/2 a quart per session
09-06-2009, 11:33 AM
#9
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If you modify your car, do it the correct way. A well sorted system, a system designed for the track and tested on the track will be very reliable. Listen to your tuner and follow the instructions to the point. How much boost and the fuel octane recommendations are a must follow. If your choice of mods is simply the $, best not to modify.
Heat is your enemy on the track. You must manage it, so gauges and additional cooling (oil & coolant) are to be investigated.
A AFR meter (a wideband is best) is a must. Make sure your car is running safely, off and on track.
Suspension, brakes, tires and wear components must be in a perfect order.
Obviously, all of the maintenance items must be up to date and checked frequently.
Safety items should be on top of your list.
Heat is your enemy on the track. You must manage it, so gauges and additional cooling (oil & coolant) are to be investigated.
A AFR meter (a wideband is best) is a must. Make sure your car is running safely, off and on track.
Suspension, brakes, tires and wear components must be in a perfect order.
Obviously, all of the maintenance items must be up to date and checked frequently.
Safety items should be on top of your list.
09-06-2009, 02:53 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
+1 Trailer, these cars are 20+ years old, I do not care if it is modded or not something is gonna break. I now have spares for everything that has broken, unfortunately not for the things that haven't broken.
Either take your car to a qualified mechanic or crawl under it yourself and make sure all the bits and pieces underneath are there and in good order. I usually check the torques under the car on a rotating basis hitting everything under the car once every 4 DEs, some items everytime I'm under there.
Either take your car to a qualified mechanic or crawl under it yourself and make sure all the bits and pieces underneath are there and in good order. I usually check the torques under the car on a rotating basis hitting everything under the car once every 4 DEs, some items everytime I'm under there.
Last edited by rlm328; 09-06-2009 at 02:54 PM. Reason: spiling
09-06-2009, 03:13 PM
#11
Nordschleife Master
Gauges are very important. Wide band and oil temp are a must i think.
Other small stuff is carry a basic set of spares with you. Power steering and alternator tensioner rods and the front sway bar end links. These things break and are simple to change.. and it would suck to loose an entire weekend at the track just because one of these broke. I broke an end link on my first run of the day and luckily had a spare with me. Drove up on my friends trailer and swapped it out in about 15 minutes. Saved me an entire day!
Other small stuff is carry a basic set of spares with you. Power steering and alternator tensioner rods and the front sway bar end links. These things break and are simple to change.. and it would suck to loose an entire weekend at the track just because one of these broke. I broke an end link on my first run of the day and luckily had a spare with me. Drove up on my friends trailer and swapped it out in about 15 minutes. Saved me an entire day!
09-06-2009, 04:21 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Let's attack experiences with the oiling failures:
Accusump? (with proper one-way valve installed!)
Drilled Crank?
Enhanced windage tray?
Extra half-quart under track use?
Proper vented air/oil seperator so no oil droplets fly down the #2/3 intake path, causing detonation and hammering on those bearings?
All of the above?
How about the heater bypass modification? Really worthy of helping to save the rear head gasket or?
Accusump? (with proper one-way valve installed!)
Drilled Crank?
Enhanced windage tray?
Extra half-quart under track use?
Proper vented air/oil seperator so no oil droplets fly down the #2/3 intake path, causing detonation and hammering on those bearings?
All of the above?
How about the heater bypass modification? Really worthy of helping to save the rear head gasket or?
09-06-2009, 07:38 PM
#13
Examine and replace any of the wiring harnesses that don't look 100%. If they are showing hard, cracking plastic, then it is time. I second the advice on the 2nd oil cooler and replacing the radiator.
09-06-2009, 07:58 PM
#14
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Oil analysis. I have used Blackstone on every oil change since I refreshed the bottom and top ends about four years ago. This gives some indication of how things are going. So far no water or antifreeze has been detected.
I track my car about 12 days a year and have modified everything for the track but only slightly modded the engine. I have a chip and the boost turned up a bit but the car has been pretty reliable. I have deleted the A/C and installed a 22x8 Setrab oil cooler in its place to keep the oil cool.
The last oil analysis is indicating an increase in the iron that I will be watching closely while reviewing the Regengade Hybrid website.
Tom Breen
I track my car about 12 days a year and have modified everything for the track but only slightly modded the engine. I have a chip and the boost turned up a bit but the car has been pretty reliable. I have deleted the A/C and installed a 22x8 Setrab oil cooler in its place to keep the oil cool.
The last oil analysis is indicating an increase in the iron that I will be watching closely while reviewing the Regengade Hybrid website.
Tom Breen
09-06-2009, 09:16 PM
#15
Drifting
Can we please get some explanation on the Proper AOS routing you talk about Iridium?
Also...the heater bypass mod...are you talking about drilling the back of the head and hooking the line up to it?
Also...the heater bypass mod...are you talking about drilling the back of the head and hooking the line up to it?