About to build an engine - I could use some advice
07-19-2009, 04:31 AM
#46
Drifting
That is one of the best posts ive seen on rennlist for a while. well said.
There is no reason to elaborate, that's partially my point. Nearly everything has been said. And more. There are a ton of opinions, the original poster needs to decide for himself. I don't want him to make judgments that will make or break his wallet depending on what a few people on an online forum tell him. There are other opinions to gather, more valuable sources to consider. Go back through this thread and every post is contradicting the previous. How can you possibly make sense of it? Everyone is an expert these days. Instead of pretending to be an expert I simply point out the fact that these are merely opinions and not truth. There is more information to be had. There are many people on this board that have suffered serious money loss due to some inexperienced ignorant advice given. I want to keep that number to a minimum, that's all. Although, as much bad advice there is on this forum, there's good to go with it as well. You see my post as a useless shot at everyone in the thread but it's really just a reminder to keep things in perspective. Let me post my 'opinion' just so it doesn't make me look 'all talk'.
lol
07-20-2009, 11:58 AM
#49
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07-24-2009, 05:47 AM
#50
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LOL, thanks for the insight! I'll be sure to only listen to the advice that is not wrong.
I really am sick and tired of heavy/stiff clutches. I want to have the lightest clutch feel possible, and that is probably one of the bigger reasons for not going for more than 350hp. I heard that the stock setup can handle up to 350... I've done a 944 clutch job at least 5 times so I know what it would mean to install an inadequate kit, and I'd really prefer to see if I can get by with a light clutch.
If by Fremont you mean Hayward, then that would be Parts Heaven, and yes they are ridiculously overpriced. I mean, I literally laugh when I hear their prices. The place I go is called EASY in Emeryville. The main guy there told me he'd never use a cast rod in a turbo engine, but nevertheless he gets racers of turbos coming in and buying sets of cast rods.
I feel somewhat inclined to just build it stock and see how long it lasts!
I really am sick and tired of heavy/stiff clutches. I want to have the lightest clutch feel possible, and that is probably one of the bigger reasons for not going for more than 350hp. I heard that the stock setup can handle up to 350... I've done a 944 clutch job at least 5 times so I know what it would mean to install an inadequate kit, and I'd really prefer to see if I can get by with a light clutch.
If by Fremont you mean Hayward, then that would be Parts Heaven, and yes they are ridiculously overpriced. I mean, I literally laugh when I hear their prices. The place I go is called EASY in Emeryville. The main guy there told me he'd never use a cast rod in a turbo engine, but nevertheless he gets racers of turbos coming in and buying sets of cast rods.
I feel somewhat inclined to just build it stock and see how long it lasts!
07-24-2009, 06:29 AM
#51
Drifting
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A good 100% stock engine is very reliable at 350hp with typical bolt ons. Anything beyond that is optional.
Tuning is just as important as any engine parts. Many of the bent or broken rods I have seen come from poor tuning, not from a poor rebuild.
btw, I have been averaging ~1200 miles/week on my car over the past 2 months and has been daily driver most days it's not a heavy rain or snowing. My sig is up to date and the oil pan has never been off the engine. I don't know many stock engines that can be pushed this hard and still be reliable for everyday driving.
Make sure everything is within spec when you assemble the engine then tune it right and you won't have any problems.
Tuning is just as important as any engine parts. Many of the bent or broken rods I have seen come from poor tuning, not from a poor rebuild.
btw, I have been averaging ~1200 miles/week on my car over the past 2 months and has been daily driver most days it's not a heavy rain or snowing. My sig is up to date and the oil pan has never been off the engine. I don't know many stock engines that can be pushed this hard and still be reliable for everyday driving.
Make sure everything is within spec when you assemble the engine then tune it right and you won't have any problems.
07-24-2009, 11:08 AM
#52
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+951 on the DDP post.
Arash: You are a smart guy for a man of tender years. You will do fine on this build. I have weighed stock forged and cast rods and they are virtually identical in weight IIRC, about 560 grams ea. DOnt know what the fascination with cast rods is?
Eniac: Congrats on your pending fatherhood! and I LOVE that avatar.
Arash: You are a smart guy for a man of tender years. You will do fine on this build. I have weighed stock forged and cast rods and they are virtually identical in weight IIRC, about 560 grams ea. DOnt know what the fascination with cast rods is?
Eniac: Congrats on your pending fatherhood! and I LOVE that avatar.
07-25-2009, 01:32 AM
#53
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07-26-2009, 06:52 PM
#55
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Stephen, congrats to you and ur wife on starting a family! And that's a great point you bring up. I haven't given much thought to tuning, but I do know how utterly important it is. I guess I just figured I would be ok but I really need to figure out what I need and how to get there. I assume if I end up building it with a stock block/head and easy bolt-ons, I can just buy the right chip that goes with my turbo kit... but what if I mess with the block like we've been discussing?
Is Russell Berry still around making that 951max kit? I thought I would buy an AFR gauge and a wideband 02 sensor, and tune it myself.... how wrong am I?
Matt, thanks. I try to benefit from the experience of those who came before me, and to the gracious helpful people here I am hugely grateful. If my engine runs, I know it's because I got help here. And the more I think about it, I'm starting to think I shouldn't bite off more than I can chew for my first complete rebuild. I wanted to make something really awesome and not have to revisit it again, but maybe it's better if I keep it basic for now.
I still really want to:
get the rotating mass balanced
replace the head studs with OEM (leaning towards it, but still thinking)
check the block top for straightness (only if I decide to replace the studs)
I'm going to decide against:
cylinder reinforcement (deck plate, pegs)
o-rings
knife-edging the crank
I still don't know enough about:
cross-drilling the crank (what are the pros and cons?)
OE or cometic headgasket
Is Russell Berry still around making that 951max kit? I thought I would buy an AFR gauge and a wideband 02 sensor, and tune it myself.... how wrong am I?
Matt, thanks. I try to benefit from the experience of those who came before me, and to the gracious helpful people here I am hugely grateful. If my engine runs, I know it's because I got help here. And the more I think about it, I'm starting to think I shouldn't bite off more than I can chew for my first complete rebuild. I wanted to make something really awesome and not have to revisit it again, but maybe it's better if I keep it basic for now.
I still really want to:
get the rotating mass balanced
replace the head studs with OEM (leaning towards it, but still thinking)
check the block top for straightness (only if I decide to replace the studs)
I'm going to decide against:
cylinder reinforcement (deck plate, pegs)
o-rings
knife-edging the crank
I still don't know enough about:
cross-drilling the crank (what are the pros and cons?)
OE or cometic headgasket
07-26-2009, 07:01 PM
#57
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Then there's always Pick n' Pull. I love their standardized pricing. I scored a set of black early leather sport seats for $15 each. They were in great condition too. Ah... I will NEVER score like that again.
07-26-2009, 07:07 PM
#58
Rainman
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Luckily one can usually find anything they need on RL for a great price.
Then there's always Pick n' Pull. I love their standardized pricing. I scored a set of black early leather sport seats for $15 each. They were in great condition too. Ah... I will NEVER score like that again.
Then there's always Pick n' Pull. I love their standardized pricing. I scored a set of black early leather sport seats for $15 each. They were in great condition too. Ah... I will NEVER score like that again.
08-16-2009, 01:01 PM
#59
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There are pick n' pulls across the country. There are 5 in the bay area; I'm sure there are a few in socal.
Right now where I'm at is I only want to get the bottom end balanced. What is involved in this? Do I just take the crank, rods, pistons to a machinist and say "balance it" or what? I don't have the pistons I want to use yet - can just a crankshaft alone be balanced? What about a crank with just rods? And how much should I budget for this?
The only other thing I'm thinking about is cross drilling. About how much should I budget for this?
I can't wait to start putting parts together! But I think I need to keep things apart until I figure out what needs to be done machining-wise.
Right now where I'm at is I only want to get the bottom end balanced. What is involved in this? Do I just take the crank, rods, pistons to a machinist and say "balance it" or what? I don't have the pistons I want to use yet - can just a crankshaft alone be balanced? What about a crank with just rods? And how much should I budget for this?
The only other thing I'm thinking about is cross drilling. About how much should I budget for this?
I can't wait to start putting parts together! But I think I need to keep things apart until I figure out what needs to be done machining-wise.
08-16-2009, 01:31 PM
#60
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You can balance all the parts separately (actually you have to balance them separately!)
Balancing is fairly inexpensive. – budget $200 for everything and you will be OK.
Unless you are obsessive (I’m guilty of that) you can skip the rods – factory sets are pretty close. Pistons should be close too. The crank, flywheel and pressure plates are the critical balance items. I have seen some pretty bad flywheels – and since they are the largest diameter items they can have the worst out of balance effect.
Balancing is fairly inexpensive. – budget $200 for everything and you will be OK.
Unless you are obsessive (I’m guilty of that) you can skip the rods – factory sets are pretty close. Pistons should be close too. The crank, flywheel and pressure plates are the critical balance items. I have seen some pretty bad flywheels – and since they are the largest diameter items they can have the worst out of balance effect.