Did the urethane tranny mount trick - pics & thoughts...
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Like the title says, I did the urethane tranny mount trick this morning. I bought the urethane before Lindsey announced they were making the semi-solid and since I had it here I figured what the heck. Plus, my end goal for the car is ~350WHP/TQ, so I'm thinking (hoping) this will suffice. The quart size can (~1/2 quart material) is the perfect amount.
Finally got the tranny dropped & mounting bar cleaned up last night. I made the 'dams' out of an empty milk jug BUT I think I should have been more tight with my tolerances. Thought I did pretty good, as you can see in the pics, but the urethane wound up leaking out thru the dams so I lost some height (bummed). The two things I would recommend if you do this are 1) do a really good job of sealing things up at the sides, & 2) wait a little bit before you pour the urethane. It was ~90F when I started mixing and it's probably approaching 95+ today. Directions say to mix at least 2 minutes and working time is 12-15 minutes. After mixing for ~ 5 minutes I poured. The mixure was still very viscous. I think if I had waited for another 5~10 minutes before puring the leaking wouldn't have been nearly as bad. Plus it seemed to coagulate in a nice linear fashion - I wasn't sure if it was going to solidify quickly at some point. Still happy with how it looks like it'll turn out, just wish it hadn't leaked out the sides as much. If I were to do it again, I'd keep mixing until it started to thicken up a bit and then pour - I think the dams I made would have worked fine if I had done that. Cheers!
Finally got the tranny dropped & mounting bar cleaned up last night. I made the 'dams' out of an empty milk jug BUT I think I should have been more tight with my tolerances. Thought I did pretty good, as you can see in the pics, but the urethane wound up leaking out thru the dams so I lost some height (bummed). The two things I would recommend if you do this are 1) do a really good job of sealing things up at the sides, & 2) wait a little bit before you pour the urethane. It was ~90F when I started mixing and it's probably approaching 95+ today. Directions say to mix at least 2 minutes and working time is 12-15 minutes. After mixing for ~ 5 minutes I poured. The mixure was still very viscous. I think if I had waited for another 5~10 minutes before puring the leaking wouldn't have been nearly as bad. Plus it seemed to coagulate in a nice linear fashion - I wasn't sure if it was going to solidify quickly at some point. Still happy with how it looks like it'll turn out, just wish it hadn't leaked out the sides as much. If I were to do it again, I'd keep mixing until it started to thicken up a bit and then pour - I think the dams I made would have worked fine if I had done that. Cheers!
#4
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I did the procedure above as outlined by Tony Kelly elsewhere on this forum about a year ago. I like this setup much better than the solid mount I have as it is not nearly as noisy. I highly recommend it to anyone who wants to shore up the drivetrain. I did mine when it was about 50 degrees F and let it sit for a few days. No leakage at all and urethane is even with the top of the cross member.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yup, that's what the entire tranny hangs on!!! As far as I know Tony Kelly is the guy who came up with this. Quoted from Tony in one of the other threads on the subject:
"enter 8644K11 into the search box at the McMaster Carr home page" for this urethane.
The 1 lb. kit is the perfect amount. I'm sure there's enough urethane to do the job even with the leakage in my case, I just get **** when I do stuff like this which is why I'm bummed a bit.....
I have my car up on stands I built. It took probably 3~4 hours to get the tranny out, but that was with the playoff games going, family interruptions, and working at a leasurely pace. I can see removing the pass. rear tire would let you just drop the tranny partially and let you pull the bar out that way, but IMHO it's easier to drop the tranny with everything being level. My plan is to replace the fuel injectors while I'm doing this, so I was also thinking it might be easier on my back bending over with the car up like this. BTW, I made the wooden stands out of 2x10's and 2x4's. I made them long enough to put the ramps on top if I wanted to get the car even higher.
I just went and tried to move the mount by hand now and it won't budge.
I'm still going to let it sit for at least a couple days to cure while I do the injectors - the directions said 80-90% hardness in 2 days, full cure in 7 days.
"enter 8644K11 into the search box at the McMaster Carr home page" for this urethane.
The 1 lb. kit is the perfect amount. I'm sure there's enough urethane to do the job even with the leakage in my case, I just get **** when I do stuff like this which is why I'm bummed a bit.....
I have my car up on stands I built. It took probably 3~4 hours to get the tranny out, but that was with the playoff games going, family interruptions, and working at a leasurely pace. I can see removing the pass. rear tire would let you just drop the tranny partially and let you pull the bar out that way, but IMHO it's easier to drop the tranny with everything being level. My plan is to replace the fuel injectors while I'm doing this, so I was also thinking it might be easier on my back bending over with the car up like this. BTW, I made the wooden stands out of 2x10's and 2x4's. I made them long enough to put the ramps on top if I wanted to get the car even higher.
I just went and tried to move the mount by hand now and it won't budge.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Trending Topics
#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yup, jack up each side of the car and slide 'em under. A lot easier (and probably safer) than lugging around cinder blocks. Only problem is they're a tad too high, so I have to put jack stands under the car and then put a 2x12 under the jack to get each side up high enough. A new jack should solve that problem. I also made a 5th block to use for the jack to get the car up high enough to put on ramp type stands if I want to go that high. Charlie944 came up with the concept.
#10
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas / Chicago
Posts: 1,537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#11
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
As an aside I've just had Sean fit a Semi solid tranny mount and some Semi Solid motor mounts. The motor mounts increase the engine reverberation in the cabin and not something I would suggest for a street focused car, but the tranny mount makes the shifting soooo much nicer. It's like a true short shift kit (which I've tried, liked, but ultimately took out due to some negatives) without the grinding gears-especially when car is cold. I think it's definitely a worthwhile upgrade.
#12
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I also did the urethane trans mount. As you said, tape every crack to keep it from leaking. Just two track days with it, but I'm very happy with it. I didn't want to go solid mounts, so this is great. Highly recommend and a nice job.
Last edited by Money Pit 951; 05-24-2009 at 10:42 AM.
#13
Rainman
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
theyre not "solid" per se as in "glorified aluminum bracket" but the design of the early mounts appears to be "more solid", ie a better mounting design. two big ear looking things hanging off each side of the trans that mount straight to the chassis. they wont work on a late car unless you modify the frame a bit.
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
#15
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas / Chicago
Posts: 1,537
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yup, that's what the entire tranny hangs on!!! As far as I know Tony Kelly is the guy who came up with this. Quoted from Tony in one of the other threads on the subject:
"enter 8644K11 into the search box at the McMaster Carr home page" for this urethane.
The 1 lb. kit is the perfect amount. I'm sure there's enough urethane to do the job even with the leakage in my case, I just get **** when I do stuff like this which is why I'm bummed a bit.....
I have my car up on stands I built. It took probably 3~4 hours to get the tranny out, but that was with the playoff games going, family interruptions, and working at a leasurely pace. I can see removing the pass. rear tire would let you just drop the tranny partially and let you pull the bar out that way, but IMHO it's easier to drop the tranny with everything being level. My plan is to replace the fuel injectors while I'm doing this, so I was also thinking it might be easier on my back bending over with the car up like this. BTW, I made the wooden stands out of 2x10's and 2x4's. I made them long enough to put the ramps on top if I wanted to get the car even higher.
I just went and tried to move the mount by hand now and it won't budge.
I'm still going to let it sit for at least a couple days to cure while I do the injectors - the directions said 80-90% hardness in 2 days, full cure in 7 days.
"enter 8644K11 into the search box at the McMaster Carr home page" for this urethane.
The 1 lb. kit is the perfect amount. I'm sure there's enough urethane to do the job even with the leakage in my case, I just get **** when I do stuff like this which is why I'm bummed a bit.....
I have my car up on stands I built. It took probably 3~4 hours to get the tranny out, but that was with the playoff games going, family interruptions, and working at a leasurely pace. I can see removing the pass. rear tire would let you just drop the tranny partially and let you pull the bar out that way, but IMHO it's easier to drop the tranny with everything being level. My plan is to replace the fuel injectors while I'm doing this, so I was also thinking it might be easier on my back bending over with the car up like this. BTW, I made the wooden stands out of 2x10's and 2x4's. I made them long enough to put the ramps on top if I wanted to get the car even higher.
I just went and tried to move the mount by hand now and it won't budge.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
edit: PS how long did you let it sit. Do you think I can get away with 2-3 days and put it back on ?
theyre not "solid" per se as in "glorified aluminum bracket" but the design of the early mounts appears to be "more solid", ie a better mounting design. two big ear looking things hanging off each side of the trans that mount straight to the chassis. they wont work on a late car unless you modify the frame a bit. ![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)