Wash, sand, polish, sand some more, polish, wax
#32
Drifting
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Paltz, NY
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
john i know a few really good retailers. You would be surprised what they can do without wet sanding first. Its a art. be prepared to spend a boatload on someone that knows what there doing.
#33
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
MOST "detailers" will not wet sand, as it takes less time and is more time efficient than buffing, they get paid by the hour, and rarely will pre-quote, My last shop pre-quoted, and we NEVER went over a quote... My wife did all the Quoting, and ALWAYS high sided every quote, never had an unhappy customer...
Funny story, mid 90s, product called "touch free car finish" or something like that was being direct marketed (infomercials), now if you watched closely, you could see why this crap didn't last, but a **** load of people bought it... and put it on their cars... We removed it from so many cars, we had a standard quote for the process... 10 hours @ $150 and hour... we had cars each day for over 6 months in to have this crap removed... basically it was a 2 part epoxy, that you smeared all over your car... went on clear, dried semi-clear.... with streaks,
BBB listed us the removal company for northern VA, and referred ALL complaints to us for removal, the morons selling the crap had to re-pay their "customers" for the removal... God I hated that crap, it was the consistency of 90s cosmolene, but didn't even blink at Amonia (used to remove cosmolene, the coating applied to cars for rail transport before the OEMS started using vinyl sheets) and most users applied the crap to their cars 10 times as thick as Cosmolene ever went on... had to begin with 00 compound, and buff through untill you got to clearcoat or paint... then goto medium polish, fine polish, wax... we heard each and every day "Thats what I wanted my car to look like in the first place, but didn't want to pay for a detail, I thought 29.95 was a good deal, untill I saw how it looked"
We laughed all the way to the bank...
#34
Drifting
Join Date: May 2008
Location: New Paltz, NY
Posts: 2,364
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#35
Monkeys Removed by Request
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm not scared to pay. I do claybar and wax and the paint is hand rubbed and cut. The paintjob on the car is extremely nice looking when properly cared for. I'm looking for someone to get rid of swirl marks and just go the extra nine that I can't do in a 3hour period myself.
I don't see what the big deal is. I used to pay to have it detailed to this degree once a year and a orbital twice a year. I think it was $120.00 bucks. I'd claybar the car and wax it atlest once every three months. Now that im up here where their is salt on the road. I claybar the car and wax it every two-three weeks or so.
I don't see what the big deal is. I used to pay to have it detailed to this degree once a year and a orbital twice a year. I think it was $120.00 bucks. I'd claybar the car and wax it atlest once every three months. Now that im up here where their is salt on the road. I claybar the car and wax it every two-three weeks or so.
#36
Nordschleife Master
Thread Starter
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I'm not scared to pay. I do claybar and wax and the paint is hand rubbed and cut. The paintjob on the car is extremely nice looking when properly cared for. I'm looking for someone to get rid of swirl marks and just go the extra nine that I can't do in a 3hour period myself.
I don't see what the big deal is. I used to pay to have it detailed to this degree once a year and a orbital twice a year. I think it was $120.00 bucks. I'd claybar the car and wax it atlest once every three months. Now that im up here where their is salt on the road. I claybar the car and wax it every two-three weeks or so.
I don't see what the big deal is. I used to pay to have it detailed to this degree once a year and a orbital twice a year. I think it was $120.00 bucks. I'd claybar the car and wax it atlest once every three months. Now that im up here where their is salt on the road. I claybar the car and wax it every two-three weeks or so.
Let me know and the orbital is in the mail...
#37
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: out in the sticks and flat lands of va wondering around for an open field or pavement!!!
Posts: 1,384
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
3M fenessitt II is the sh*t I have used it for years down in the paint shop I used to work at !
#38
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mobile,Al
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
When I said that buffing removes more material than sanding, I was specifically refering to buffing after sanding. Btw,we use 3m Perfect It # 6085 compound. I stopped using Finesse It more than 5 years ago. The 6085 compound is by far the best compound 3m has put out. On a white car I wouldn't expend too much effort or money as you will never see the result you would on a darker color. I would go with clay bar and wax- you could spend twice as much and the car will look about the same. As for swirls, they are dealt with in the polishing/glazing step, not by sanding and buffing.
#39
Race Car
#40
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tulsa Oklahoma
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I wouldn't worry about sanding a car that doesn't have any real paint damage. My car, I may have to, because the repspray on my hood (PO thought I couldn't tell) is such that the orange peel is almost distracting. I plan on spending a day on the front end here soon. Just need to get another buffer and the proper pads. Black paint scares me!
#41
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I have some clear coat blistering on my passenger side door and have been following this thread with great interest. Would you recommend wet sanding to clean it up? I guess one has to do the whole panel, if not the entire car?
#42
Race Car
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
If it has lifted from the base your are pretty much SOL for sand and buff. If it is a top layer imperfection then maybe you can fix it
Hard to tell w/o seeing it
Hard to tell w/o seeing it
#43
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Mobile,Al
Posts: 1,085
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#44
#45
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tulsa Oklahoma
Posts: 1,965
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Here's something I think WE ALL could use for help.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/index.php
I love to read here. Look at some of the stuff these guys do! And there's an online store if you need anything. They also do product reviews etc.
http://www.autopia.org/forum/index.php
I love to read here. Look at some of the stuff these guys do! And there's an online store if you need anything. They also do product reviews etc.