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Help! off throttle rpm dips below 700 shudders or stalls*SOLVED*

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Old 04-02-2009, 07:44 PM
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jasonlp
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Default Help! off throttle rpm dips below 700 shudders or stalls*SOLVED*

**********SOLVED**************
STEALTH MAF SENSOR ORIENTATION *FAIL*
**********SOLVED**************


Coming off throttle car shudders and then comes back to normal idle or on occasion just stalls

With help from vitesse*John and The DareDevil*Derek we have not been able to solve it

zt-2 data capture of the event *attached*

Check list so far with ought a cure:
- Make sure the TPS is giving the IDLE signal - NOT YET
- Make sure your Idle control valve is clean and functioning - DONE
- Of course, double check for vacuum leaks. - DONE
- Reset Idle via Idle Screw on the TB as described in the owner's manual (or clark's garage). - DONE
piggyback-Global Settings ===> Analog ===> Min Fuel" - DONE

PENDING - Check the IDLE switch, make sure it's giving the IDLE signal. Check this at the DME/KLR
PENDING - Eliminate one possibility. Use the shorting plug in place of the PiggyBacK
Attached Files
File Type: zip
shudder_jason.zto.zip (5.1 KB, 4 views)

Last edited by jasonlp; 04-06-2009 at 02:18 AM.
Old 04-02-2009, 08:11 PM
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Luis de Prat
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How did you adjust the idle? You're supposed to disable the ISV on a warm engine and bypass the ISV by jumpering pins B and C in the diagnostic socket to set the idle properly.
Old 04-02-2009, 08:29 PM
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Mike Lindsey
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Try setting the throttle body idle properly including hard stop. Run the factory 02 sensor.
Un-plug the vacuum hose to the bypass valve (cap hose off) and see if it makes a difference in how often
it dies. If it does, get a stiffer spring so the bypass valve is closed other then coming off boost.
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Old 04-02-2009, 08:30 PM
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jasonlp
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Originally Posted by Luis de Prat
How did you adjust the idle? You're supposed to disable the ISV on a warm engine and bypass the ISV by jumpering pins B and C in the diagnostic socket to set the idle properly.
DONE - idle is perfect

Originally Posted by Mike Lindsey
Try setting the throttle body idle properly including hard stop. Run the factory 02 sensor.
Un-plug the vacuum hose to the bypass valve (cap hose off) and see if it makes a difference in how often
it dies. If it does, get a stiffer spring so the bypass valve is closed other then coming off boost.
DONE - mechanically the car is perfect
Old 04-02-2009, 08:50 PM
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When you turn on the key, and the engine is not running, put your fingers on the
idle stabalizer and see if you can feel it vibrating. If not bad TPS, Stabablizer or DME.
Old 04-02-2009, 08:57 PM
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jasonlp
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Originally Posted by Mike Lindsey
When you turn on the key, and the engine is not running, put your fingers on the
idle stabalizer and see if you can feel it vibrating. If not bad TPS, Stabablizer or DME.
TPS perfect minus idle signal verification

if the stabilizer didn't work it would just stall instead of bounce back - vibrating way

DME - possibly but no other problems
Old 04-02-2009, 08:57 PM
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Eliminate one possibility. Use the shorting plug in place of the PiggyBack. Also measure the MAF voltage at the DME #7 and compare it to the voltage on the MAF itself. If the voltage is different, the wiring needs some cleaning up.
We went through this last year when you had the lose wire. You should have the emails!

Check the IDLE switch, make sure it's giving the IDLE signal. Check this at the DME/KLR..
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Old 04-02-2009, 09:03 PM
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jasonlp
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Originally Posted by fast951
Eliminate one possibility. Use the shorting plug in place of the PiggyBack. Also measure the MAF voltage at the DME #7 and compare it to the voltage on the MAF itself. If the voltage is different, the wiring needs some cleaning up.
We went through this last year when you had the lose wire. You should have the emails!

Check the IDLE switch, make sure it's giving the IDLE signal. Check this at the DME/KLR..
DONE - MAF voltage at the DME #7 and compare it to the voltage on the MAF itself

PENDING - Check the IDLE switch, make sure it's giving the IDLE signal. Check this at the DME/KLR

PENDING - Eliminate one possibility. Use the shorting plug in place of the PiggyBacK
Old 04-02-2009, 09:45 PM
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Keithr726
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I had a similar problem when returning to idle it would dip then jump back up. For me it was just resetting the idle control valve using the factory procedure jumping the wires at the testport.
Old 04-02-2009, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Keithr726
I had a similar problem when returning to idle it would dip then jump back up. For me it was just resetting the idle control valve using the factory procedure jumping the wires at the testport.

long story short, I decided to play with idle screw, no longer dips while idling BUT off load it still happens.... Which was the case in previous history

Last edited by jasonlp; 04-03-2009 at 03:11 AM.
Old 04-03-2009, 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by fast951
We went through this last year when you had the lose wire. You should have the emails!
It wasn't lose it was shredded and grounding out. I discovered it while leaning on the airbox for a second while working on idle via idle screw made the car almost stall by pushing down on the airbox making it run super rich was how i discovered it.

Worst part was that the signal at the maf when i checked it was normal
Old 04-05-2009, 11:21 PM
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jasonlp
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**********SOLVED**************
STEALTH MAF SENSOR ORIENTATION *FAIL*
**********SOLVED**************

I was heading to check voltage to MAF and found the problem.

Thanks everyone for your input much appreciated!

Last edited by jasonlp; 04-06-2009 at 02:35 AM.
Old 04-06-2009, 10:06 AM
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Originally Posted by jasonlp
**********SOLVED**************
STEALTH MAF SENSOR ORIENTATION *FAIL*
**********SOLVED**************

I was heading to check voltage to MAF and found the problem.

Thanks everyone for your input much appreciated!

Installing the MAF with the wrong orientation NEVER works. Just be glad you did not cause any damage. Looking at your data log, I knew you were way off and something was wrong.
Old 04-06-2009, 01:11 PM
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:22 PM
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wrong orientation? what is the proper orientation?


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