mzman

Hey guys, just got my new lr maf installed and took it for a test drive, i still need a lot of tuning to do and am going to send the file to INURGIRL to help with that but right now I am curious why the car dies when i put the clutch in and come to a stop. I assume its a tuning issue but which would it be too lean on idle or too rich or what?

Thanks

seattle951

I had the same issue with my LR MAF when I first got it. It took us months to get it right. We ended up swapping out 3 or 4 components until we finally came to a configuration that didn't stall the engine at a stoplight. Most of the changes were associated with the diameter of the piping and distance from the turbo. We also ended up upgrading the MAF head to solve an issue with the mixture changing when the headlights were up or down.

We finally got it right and it performs beautifully. However, it was a royal pain in the neck.

Ski

One of the first things, IMHO, that should be purchased when you start modifications is a WBO2 system. It is the single best component for your invested $$; it will help you tune the car and it will save your A$$ and wallett. There are a number of choices, inexpensive to expensive but whether $280 to $800, how much is your engine worth?

Most MAF's, not all, start with the car lean. If you have an AFPR, turn up the fuel pressure a bit and see if that helps.

mzman

I have a UEGO 1000 installed and logging with my mafterburner. I will try zeroing out the table and see how it goes. Right now the car runs ok till it gets warm then goes wicked rich like 9s and runs awful till it dies...

seattle951

Did you retain the stock O2 sensor in addition to the wideband?

Does the MAF sensor also compensate for temperature? In my first LR MAF configuration the system did not compensate for temperature and car would go rich when hot and when the headlights were up. It would go from 14s to 10s. LR sold me a newer MAF head and sensor that helped the problem. We also had a MAF trap built that isolated the incoming air from the engine compartment. Between the upgraded MAF sensor, stock O2 sensor and MAF trap the problem was solved.

The idle issue was resolved by longer and wider piping between the MAF head and the turbo. This played havoc with the MAF trap since the set up was too long. Our solution was a custom MAF trap and and enlarged opening into the fendor well.

As mentioned, the system works absolutely perfectly now, but it was long journey and lot of hours in my mechanic's shop.

FYI - When I went through this with my car I posted on Clark's Garage and another LR MAF owner had the identical problem. He was the one that put us on to the longer piping. If you search Clark's Garage you may find the discussion from the troubleshooting process.

mzman

Yes I still have the stock 02 sensor hooked up with the wideband put in down near the starter.

The MAF should compensate for tempature, it has the intake air temp probe wired in, don't know if there is anything that i need to do other then that...

I got a lot of my rich issue fixed by messing with the tune, I put it way to rich to be on the safe side but ended up causing lots of trouble so i zeroed it out and started slowly adjusting and its getting better. But the car still likes to die when i come to a stop. But now its 1 out of 5 stops instead of every single stop like earlier today.

Thanks for the tips, i will go check out clarks and see what i can find there.

Bri Bro

Don't set the Idle RPMs using the tach, they have a history of reading incorrectly and you wind up setting the idle to low. Are you sure your idle control valve is working?

odb812

^^yeah, do step 3 from the link below and try driving the car around.
http://www.clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/fuel-08.htm

mzman

Alright I will try jumpering it tonight after work and see what it does. I didn't have this problem before the maf so I doubt it is the problem.

I just checked my maf logs and it says the idle stays at 880 90% of the time, only sometimes dipping down to 650-700. Which didn't happen before the maf.