So I was doing my master, slave and slave to master hose assembly today.

Everything has gone smoothly, minus losing a washer on the master mounting bolts, who needs washers? (They add weight).

The real PITA has been the little clamp that holds the slave-to-master hardline near the torque tube. Is that clamp necessary? I can't see why it's critical to operation...

BTW, good thing I was doing this master/slave change today, when I inspected the clutch fork pin, it was backing itself out. Apparently someone didn't securely tighten the screw which holds that fork pin in place.

All is good now... Except for satan's little clamp...

 

That was your 944th post.

 

Wow, Nick. Good find on the fork pivot bolt!!

I bet you can get away without Satan's little clamp... Because the drive train (and hence the slave) is isolated from the body, and can vibrate, Satan wanted to keep the hard line fixed and just let the rubber part bend - to reduce stress on the slave's fitting. But I bet the risk isn't that great - call it another weight savings!

 

Nice!, next it's my 951st post.

They should have just tac welded the bolt to the mounting flange, as it is, you've got to push the bolt through three individual holes while keeping the clamp compressed to get the nut started. Of course, when it was originally installed it took 10 seconds since the engine was out of the car...

I think I'll just wrap that section with a piece of old rubber hose and nylon wire-tie that dirty bastard to the flange.

As a side note, you've really got to be careful that the clutch pedal pre-tensioner doesn't engage when you're under the dash. This happened to me and it almost really whollopped my hand.

Next stop; wheel bearings...

 

I wouldn't skip that clamp. I did and it made the hose rub thru against the speed sensor. I came out one morning to all my clutch fluid on the ground. That clamp positions the hose so it doesn't rub on anything.

 

951 Tom,

After purchasing a nice set of 1/4" drive extensions, sockets and a universal joint I was able to re-attach that hose clamp no problem.

I could see pretty clearly that it would eventually cause a problem.

 

How difficult is it to replace the master and slave cylinders? I am looking at doing this project as the boot on the master cylinder is wet looking. I have done this on other cars and I know that you need to replace both master and slave cylinders at the same time.

 

They are not hard to replace. Removing the driver's seat makes it a lot easier to reach the top of the pedal. See Clark's Garage for a diy on them.

 

Thanks, I just ordered the flex hose from the master to the slave, both cylinders, the gasket, and the hose from the brake reservoir from paragon.

 

Hey chris, might help you instead of crawling under the dash, pull your relay panel up and you can do all the work from the top. Once i was told that and did some looking i couldnt believe it.

Mark

 

Thanks for the great advice! My parts should be on Tuesday, so I will pull the relay panel up. I am a little concerned that all the wiring will be brittle if I take that panel out.

 

well, I replaced all that crap and the removal and installation of the hoses, and cylinders was fairly easy...until I started to bleed the system. It took forever to get fluid from the reservoir to the cylinders and then the air seemed to never want to come out. Is there an easy way to bleed the clutch? Did you remove the starter for the slave cyl?