MBC or LR Boost Enhancer?
#1
Drifting
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I accidentally broke my MBC and I have to buy a new one, and I've read that the LR boost enhancer is better for the stock wg, so should I just get another MBC or pay a little extra and get the LRBE?
#2
Rocket Scientist
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I don't know why you think the LBE is better for the stock WG?
I would suggest to buy an MBC but if you're stubborn on the LBE you can pick one up used for less then $30 I bet.
I would suggest to buy an MBC but if you're stubborn on the LBE you can pick one up used for less then $30 I bet.
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#4
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Blitz SBC i-color, FTW. If you got the extra cheese it is a very sweet gizmo. User friendly GUI too.
#5
Drifting
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I saw the Turbonetics MBC for $30 shipped on Ebay, but I also read on a thread here that Russ Berry at Max also recommends the LBE over the MBC, which has me question why, I would presume that it would also be staggered boost topping out in the higher gears like the MBC, or not?
#6
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Thanks. But is there a reason behind it? First rule of the internets, especially rennlist, believe only 10% of what you read. To just believe what you've read without explanation is silly. I'm curious what the reasoning was.
LBEs are meant to be used in conjunction with the cycling valve, IIRC. Might as well ditch the cycling valve and run a MBC. Simple, more direct, less crap, more response, etc.
MBCs can be had for cheap and are bulletproof. End of story.
LBEs are meant to be used in conjunction with the cycling valve, IIRC. Might as well ditch the cycling valve and run a MBC. Simple, more direct, less crap, more response, etc.
MBCs can be had for cheap and are bulletproof. End of story.
#7
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I saw the Turbonetics MBC for $30 shipped on Ebay, but I also read on a thread here that Russ Berry at Max also recommends the LBE over the MBC, which has me question why, I would presume that it would also be staggered boost topping out in the higher gears like the MBC, or not?
The increasing of boost per gear isn't something you will notice or should worry about. It's minimal at worst.
What are you running right now? Cycling valve? Chip?
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#8
Drifting
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Thanks, I don't have a cycling valve, I have a K26/8 with a APE MAF with chips, 3 bar fpr, 3" exhaust with Borla X1R, no cat. I'll just buy another MBC from Ebay, but how can I avoid the staggered boost in different gears, WOT- 10 psi in 1st, 12 psi in second, 14 psi in third and finally 15psi in 4th?
#9
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MBCs can be had for cheap and are bulletproof. End of story.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Seriously though, for the stock wastegate you want a ball and spring type controller, not a blead valve. My pick is the Joe P Inline MBC. Simple, cheap, and very accurate even with fluctuating temperatures.
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...213a4d1cf39394
#10
Drifting
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Bulletproof?? If they were bulletproof he wouldn't be looking for a new one
Seriously though, for the stock wastegate you want a ball and spring type controller, not a blead valve. My pick is the Joe P Inline MBC. Simple, cheap, and very accurate even with fluctuating temperatures.
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...213a4d1cf39394
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
Seriously though, for the stock wastegate you want a ball and spring type controller, not a blead valve. My pick is the Joe P Inline MBC. Simple, cheap, and very accurate even with fluctuating temperatures.
http://www.boostcontroller.com/index...213a4d1cf39394
#11
Nordschleife Master
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RPHARRIS speaks the truth. From my personal experience using the black **** with a stock wastegate (was temporary until i put in a dual port) is that accurate boost control was extremely difficult. Boost creep was horrible and it was literally 1 or 2 full turns to go up and down 1 psi.. rather than one 'click' essentially being one 1psi with the dual port.
Get a ball and spring type if your keeping the stock wastegate.
Get a ball and spring type if your keeping the stock wastegate.
#12
Drifting
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RPHARRIS speaks the truth. From my personal experience using the black **** with a stock wastegate (was temporary until i put in a dual port) is that accurate boost control was extremely difficult. Boost creep was horrible and it was literally 1 or 2 full turns to go up and down 1 psi.. rather than one 'click' essentially being one 1psi with the dual port.
Get a ball and spring type if your keeping the stock wastegate.
Get a ball and spring type if your keeping the stock wastegate.
#15
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So.... With the stock WG design, the WG starts to open at very low boost levels based on the pressure at the back of the valve so using a bleed MBC doesn't do you much justice. The ball and spring design keeps the signal air out until a certain boost level is achieved (but can cause some boost spikes). That's why the LBE types are said to be better on a stock WG. When using a LBE, it is not a good idea to bypass the cycling valve.