MBC or LR Boost Enhancer?
03-17-2009, 05:52 PM
#31
Nordschleife Master
In 1st there is just not enough load on the engine to get full boost with the controller set to 15psi (or whatever you want to run) on a manual boost controller. The gear is so short it really doesent matter anyhow. 2nd is the same story, i get about 12psi with the same higher gear setting. There is nothing you can do about this short of going with an electronic boost controller with gear selectable boost settings. Again, i feel like thats a nice feature and all, but not as useful as you think because the gear is so short, and i have problems as is keeping the tires from spinning (even with 275 street slicks) that any more boost would just compound the problem.
03-17-2009, 06:00 PM
#32
Drifting
Thread Starter
Are you using the Tial in dual port or single port mode? I bet single port.
I dont get any boost creep at all with the black **** and a dual port wastegate. I said this a few times?
In 1st there is just not enough load on the engine to get full boost with the controller set to 15psi (or whatever you want to run) on a manual boost controller. The gear is so short it really doesent matter anyhow. 2nd is the same story, i get about 12psi with the same higher gear setting. There is nothing you can do about this short of going with an electronic boost controller with gear selectable boost settings. Again, i feel like thats a nice feature and all, but not as useful as you think because the gear is so short, and i have problems as is keeping the tires from spinning (even with 275 street slicks) that any more boost would just compound the problem.
I dont get any boost creep at all with the black **** and a dual port wastegate. I said this a few times?
In 1st there is just not enough load on the engine to get full boost with the controller set to 15psi (or whatever you want to run) on a manual boost controller. The gear is so short it really doesent matter anyhow. 2nd is the same story, i get about 12psi with the same higher gear setting. There is nothing you can do about this short of going with an electronic boost controller with gear selectable boost settings. Again, i feel like thats a nice feature and all, but not as useful as you think because the gear is so short, and i have problems as is keeping the tires from spinning (even with 275 street slicks) that any more boost would just compound the problem.
03-17-2009, 10:26 PM
#33
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My experience......
Here's my 2 bits....On my car i'm running a stock WG shimeed 4mm. When i recently did a head job, i thought, what the hell, lets try the manual boost controller(black ****). So I dug out the cycling valve, took off my LBE and plumber it in. My set up sounds similar to yours, APE MAF&chips, Mild head port, stock WG/4mm, 3''catback.
When i went out for the test drive, boost was all over the place and it was difficult to get it dialed in anywhere close. It had the same staggering everyone else has mentioned already and spiked a LOT if i didn't constantly keep and eye on it.
I was VERY unhappy with this situation so, off came the black ****, back in with a new cycling valve(old one was original and weak), re-installed the LBE, set at the factory setting, and Yahoo, the car was fun again. 16 psi boost everytime in 2nd through 5th, consistant, steady and stable, i couldn't ask for better.
The other folks here have given accurate info on the differences between how the single and dual port WG's work and what seems to work best with what. It sounds to me like you would be more happy staying with the LBE, or the accuboost(they both work on the same principal) than the black **** with your stock WG. I hope that this helps some.
marco
When i went out for the test drive, boost was all over the place and it was difficult to get it dialed in anywhere close. It had the same staggering everyone else has mentioned already and spiked a LOT if i didn't constantly keep and eye on it.
I was VERY unhappy with this situation so, off came the black ****, back in with a new cycling valve(old one was original and weak), re-installed the LBE, set at the factory setting, and Yahoo, the car was fun again. 16 psi boost everytime in 2nd through 5th, consistant, steady and stable, i couldn't ask for better.
The other folks here have given accurate info on the differences between how the single and dual port WG's work and what seems to work best with what. It sounds to me like you would be more happy staying with the LBE, or the accuboost(they both work on the same principal) than the black **** with your stock WG. I hope that this helps some.
marco
03-17-2009, 10:54 PM
#34
Drifting
Thread Starter
Here's my 2 bits....On my car i'm running a stock WG shimeed 4mm. When i recently did a head job, i thought, what the hell, lets try the manual boost controller(black ****). So I dug out the cycling valve, took off my LBE and plumber it in. My set up sounds similar to yours, APE MAF&chips, Mild head port, stock WG/4mm, 3''catback.
When i went out for the test drive, boost was all over the place and it was difficult to get it dialed in anywhere close. It had the same staggering everyone else has mentioned already and spiked a LOT if i didn't constantly keep and eye on it.
I was VERY unhappy with this situation so, off came the black ****, back in with a new cycling valve(old one was original and weak), re-installed the LBE, set at the factory setting, and Yahoo, the car was fun again. 16 psi boost everytime in 2nd through 5th, consistant, steady and stable, i couldn't ask for better.
The other folks here have given accurate info on the differences between how the single and dual port WG's work and what seems to work best with what. It sounds to me like you would be more happy staying with the LBE, or the accuboost(they both work on the same principal) than the black **** with your stock WG. I hope that this helps some.
marco
When i went out for the test drive, boost was all over the place and it was difficult to get it dialed in anywhere close. It had the same staggering everyone else has mentioned already and spiked a LOT if i didn't constantly keep and eye on it.
I was VERY unhappy with this situation so, off came the black ****, back in with a new cycling valve(old one was original and weak), re-installed the LBE, set at the factory setting, and Yahoo, the car was fun again. 16 psi boost everytime in 2nd through 5th, consistant, steady and stable, i couldn't ask for better.
The other folks here have given accurate info on the differences between how the single and dual port WG's work and what seems to work best with what. It sounds to me like you would be more happy staying with the LBE, or the accuboost(they both work on the same principal) than the black **** with your stock WG. I hope that this helps some.
marco
03-17-2009, 11:13 PM
#35
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Let's get something straight; can we agree that creep is when the boost continues to rise past the set level (abeit at a slowed rate)?
With a ball and spring this will not be an issue with the stock gate. If boost pressure increases, the spring is compressed, more pressure reaches the wastegate diaphragm, and more exhaust is bypassed.
Things are a little more difficult to predict with a bleed valve. They are designed to maintain a pressure diiferential or ratio between the manifold and the wg diaphragm. They do this by bleeding off air through an adjustable sized orifice. For example, at a certain setting, if boost pressure is 10lbs, then 5lbs will be sent to the wastegate. If Boost is 20lbs, then 10 pounds will be sent to the wg. The net result is that the wastegate begins to open sooner but doesn't open as quickly. Bleeds have more inherent delay than ball and spring devices, which can cause a noticeable oscillation in boost pressure. Ball and spring devices, especially well designed ones can avoid oscillation because the spring can be partially compressed, allowing near instantaneous feedback between boost pressure and diaphragm pressure. I hope this makes some sense. Try out the bleed, see if it works for you. If it isn't to your liking then either get a ball and spring device or get a dual port wastegate.
With a ball and spring this will not be an issue with the stock gate. If boost pressure increases, the spring is compressed, more pressure reaches the wastegate diaphragm, and more exhaust is bypassed.
Things are a little more difficult to predict with a bleed valve. They are designed to maintain a pressure diiferential or ratio between the manifold and the wg diaphragm. They do this by bleeding off air through an adjustable sized orifice. For example, at a certain setting, if boost pressure is 10lbs, then 5lbs will be sent to the wastegate. If Boost is 20lbs, then 10 pounds will be sent to the wg. The net result is that the wastegate begins to open sooner but doesn't open as quickly. Bleeds have more inherent delay than ball and spring devices, which can cause a noticeable oscillation in boost pressure. Ball and spring devices, especially well designed ones can avoid oscillation because the spring can be partially compressed, allowing near instantaneous feedback between boost pressure and diaphragm pressure. I hope this makes some sense. Try out the bleed, see if it works for you. If it isn't to your liking then either get a ball and spring device or get a dual port wastegate.
03-17-2009, 11:24 PM
#36
Drifting
Thread Starter
Ok, let me make this simple, with my black ****, I floor it in any gear and it jumps to 3 psi and then pics up, my question is, with the ball and spring, will there be more of a kick once I floor it from the delay as opposed to the slow build up from the black ****? If otherwise, they will still be the same in terms of different boost levels in differents gears (staggered). My point is that there has to be some significant difference that is felt, for me to drop the black **** and get the Accuboost...
03-17-2009, 11:41 PM
#37
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0-full boost should be noticeably quicker compared to the black **** IMHO it's worth it but to each his own.
Staggered boost is not a good thing. I've never had an issue with it though. I think technoduck's boost gauge may have some built in delay because I can easily hit 18 pounds in the first two gears (I think we have the same turbo too).
Take a look at this. The yellow line on the top chart is boost. Same exact pressure in every gear. This is a Joe P inline on a Tial F41 in single port mode (like a stock wg but with a little more spring pressure).
Staggered boost is not a good thing. I've never had an issue with it though. I think technoduck's boost gauge may have some built in delay because I can easily hit 18 pounds in the first two gears (I think we have the same turbo too).
Take a look at this. The yellow line on the top chart is boost. Same exact pressure in every gear. This is a Joe P inline on a Tial F41 in single port mode (like a stock wg but with a little more spring pressure).
03-17-2009, 11:52 PM
#38
Drifting
Thread Starter
If that's the case, then it would make sense for me to get the ball and spring, now should I go with the Joe P Inline (which looks more simple) or the Accuboost? There is a $20 difference, I wonder if it's worth it...
03-18-2009, 01:12 AM
#39
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i had a LBE.
Decided to get accuboost
it didn't work, wouldn't hold boost and erratic
called the supplier and they told me take out it apart, clean it, put it back together, and try it again.
didn't work.
Not sure if i threw it away or it's in a box somewhere, but i put on the LBE and decided, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I WOULD HAVE MUCH PREFERED THE SUPPLIER TO TAKE BACK A MALFUNTIONING PRODUCT AND NOT HAVE ME TRY TO FIX IT.
I can state that i would recommend LBE and never recommend accuboost due to my experience.
Hey, maybe i'm one in a hundred, but they did not seem interested in fixing my problem.
03-18-2009, 08:22 AM
#40
Drifting
Thread Starter
i had a LBE.
Decided to get accuboost
it didn't work, wouldn't hold boost and erratic
called the supplier and they told me take out it apart, clean it, put it back together, and try it again.
didn't work.
Not sure if i threw it away or it's in a box somewhere, but i put on the LBE and decided, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I WOULD HAVE MUCH PREFERED THE SUPPLIER TO TAKE BACK A MALFUNTIONING PRODUCT AND NOT HAVE ME TRY TO FIX IT.
I can state that i would recommend LBE and never recommend accuboost due to my experience.
Hey, maybe i'm one in a hundred, but they did not seem interested in fixing my problem.
Decided to get accuboost
it didn't work, wouldn't hold boost and erratic
called the supplier and they told me take out it apart, clean it, put it back together, and try it again.
didn't work.
Not sure if i threw it away or it's in a box somewhere, but i put on the LBE and decided, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".
I WOULD HAVE MUCH PREFERED THE SUPPLIER TO TAKE BACK A MALFUNTIONING PRODUCT AND NOT HAVE ME TRY TO FIX IT.
I can state that i would recommend LBE and never recommend accuboost due to my experience.
Hey, maybe i'm one in a hundred, but they did not seem interested in fixing my problem.
Last edited by LFA951; 03-18-2009 at 11:52 PM.
03-18-2009, 11:09 PM
#41
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yep....
yep I'm down here too, a little south of WPB. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with the Lindsay BE. the part is verywell made, fits well looks cool, and best of all, the people and support at Lindsey-Racing is/are awesome!!! Dave Lindsey has been very helpfull and i can't recommend you at least checking it out!!!
marco
marco
03-18-2009, 11:53 PM
#42
Drifting
Thread Starter
yep I'm down here too, a little south of WPB. In my opinion, you can't go wrong with the Lindsay BE. the part is verywell made, fits well looks cool, and best of all, the people and support at Lindsey-Racing is/are awesome!!! Dave Lindsey has been very helpfull and i can't recommend you at least checking it out!!!
marco
marco
