Early to Late suspension swap
#16
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Thread Starter
well - i could do a generic speedline build thread- something like- wirewheel 160 bolts and paint silver, sand and polish outer lips, spray centers and reassemble. Just primered my centers tonite- hope to have them in House of Color silver by this weekend so i can start reassembling. Machinist friend of mine is supposed to be cutting me some center caps out of aluminum.
#19
Geaux Tigers!
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well - i could do a generic speedline build thread- something like- wirewheel 160 bolts and paint silver, sand and polish outer lips, spray centers and reassemble. Just primered my centers tonite- hope to have them in House of Color silver by this weekend so i can start reassembling. Machinist friend of mine is supposed to be cutting me some center caps out of aluminum.
What are you using to seal the 3 pieces with?
Does your bolts have an outer head that's strange looking? Did you need a special tool to get them off?
Was there a center oring around the rim?
What are you using as your torque settings? Going around twice or once?
Which thread locker on the bolts?
#21
Rennlist Member
well - i could do a generic speedline build thread- something like- wirewheel 160 bolts and paint silver, sand and polish outer lips, spray centers and reassemble. Just primered my centers tonite- hope to have them in House of Color silver by this weekend so i can start reassembling. Machinist friend of mine is supposed to be cutting me some center caps out of aluminum.
#22
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Thread Starter
- i know the rear arms are the same but i could either replace the entire arm w/ new bearings, proper stub axels and hubs, or press mine apart, buy new bearings and press these apart and install the new hubs and stubs into my old arms...so i figured this would be easier.
The wheels have a rubber ring that goes around the center, but i'll also be sealing them with silicone afterwards.
The bolts are probl. only torqued to about 12-15lbs max but i have to research that.
I'll get a new tube of blue loctite when i install them-yeah you need a small inverted torx bit to remove them
=heres a pic of what i did tonite although you cant tell how good they turned out- house of color Shimron silver met.
The wheels have a rubber ring that goes around the center, but i'll also be sealing them with silicone afterwards.
The bolts are probl. only torqued to about 12-15lbs max but i have to research that.
I'll get a new tube of blue loctite when i install them-yeah you need a small inverted torx bit to remove them
=heres a pic of what i did tonite although you cant tell how good they turned out- house of color Shimron silver met.
#23
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: North Of Chicago
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Nice work Dan!
I suggest break in of the Hawks at dusk. Have someone ride behind and get a picture of the spark shower! This is what I got to witness when Damon (M3) was breaking in his pads before Mid-O last year. Just did not get a picture.
I suggest break in of the Hawks at dusk. Have someone ride behind and get a picture of the spark shower! This is what I got to witness when Damon (M3) was breaking in his pads before Mid-O last year. Just did not get a picture.
#25
ELLSSUU -- You need to contact Jim Dorciak and ask him how to get them off. Jim is a good friend. If you look thru my past posts about my Speedlines you will find him contact info.
Good luck..
Good luck..
#26
- i know the rear arms are the same but i could either replace the entire arm w/ new bearings, proper stub axels and hubs, or press mine apart, buy new bearings and press these apart and install the new hubs and stubs into my old arms...so i figured this would be easier.
The wheels have a rubber ring that goes around the center, but i'll also be sealing them with silicone afterwards.
The bolts are probl. only torqued to about 12-15lbs max but i have to research that.
I'll get a new tube of blue loctite when i install them-yeah you need a small inverted torx bit to remove them
=heres a pic of what i did tonite although you cant tell how good they turned out- house of color Shimron silver met.
The wheels have a rubber ring that goes around the center, but i'll also be sealing them with silicone afterwards.
The bolts are probl. only torqued to about 12-15lbs max but i have to research that.
I'll get a new tube of blue loctite when i install them-yeah you need a small inverted torx bit to remove them
=heres a pic of what i did tonite although you cant tell how good they turned out- house of color Shimron silver met.
#28
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
t-bars deleted about two years now. 525lb rear springs, 450 fronts
still have some suspension stuff fs left over
-1" front slip on-or bolt on- spacers w/ longer studs- $100
-rear trailing arms, stubs and hubs
-front rotors
-front hubs
inner early tie rods
still have some suspension stuff fs left over
-1" front slip on-or bolt on- spacers w/ longer studs- $100
-rear trailing arms, stubs and hubs
-front rotors
-front hubs
inner early tie rods
#29
Rennlist Member
Dan, im thinking about doing this as well. I have an 87' 951 parts car and 86' 951 daily driver. I was thinking of removing the whole suspension from the 87', rebuilding it and then installing it in my 86'. was the removal and install difficult?