Camber plates info thread
02-21-2009, 05:42 PM
#1
The Impaler
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Camber plates info thread
There are about 1000 different manufacturers of camber plates for our cars it seems. Mookeeh, kokeln, racers edge, weltmeister, ground control, lindsey racing and more.
There are top mount, bottom mount, extended types and some the look like they have more adjustment than others. Some seem to use different bearing designs, some have proprietary spring hats etc.
Post up the info about what you are running, how you like it, and observable differences with the different brands...
There are top mount, bottom mount, extended types and some the look like they have more adjustment than others. Some seem to use different bearing designs, some have proprietary spring hats etc.
Post up the info about what you are running, how you like it, and observable differences with the different brands...
02-21-2009, 06:05 PM
#2
The Impaler
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Here are some different products and their cost/info
Ground control bottom mount: $299 LINK
Ground control top mount: $439 LINK
Kokeln raised mount: $750 LINK
Mookeeh camber plates: $250 LINK
Racers Edge camber plates: $499 LINK
Weltmeister camber plates:$689 LINK
Lindsey Racing camber plates: $429 LINK
Tarett camber plates: $429 LINK
Dynatech camber plates: NLA
Ground control bottom mount: $299 LINK
Ground control top mount: $439 LINK
Kokeln raised mount: $750 LINK
Mookeeh camber plates: $250 LINK
Racers Edge camber plates: $499 LINK
Weltmeister camber plates:$689 LINK
Lindsey Racing camber plates: $429 LINK
Tarett camber plates: $429 LINK
Dynatech camber plates: NLA
Last edited by Lorax; 02-23-2009 at 08:50 PM.
02-21-2009, 06:09 PM
#3
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I can add that I just got my GC top mount type, they are a very very well made piece and have the added benefit of easy caster adjustment.
02-21-2009, 06:43 PM
#4
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Last set of racer's edge camber plates we ordered, the camber plates were wrapped with paper/tape that said weltmeister all over it. I thought they were awfully similar.
02-21-2009, 07:15 PM
#7
The Impaler
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02-21-2009, 07:16 PM
#8
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Top mount plates mount above the body and cannot be used with strut braces. Bottom mount is how the factory strut mounts are installed, so you can use a strut brace in conjunction with the camber plates.
I am running the Lindsey Racing plates and absolutely hate them. The design is sweet if you have coilovers as the 2.5'' spring hat is part of the plate and has a thrust bearing so the weight of the car sets on the actual plate, not the small bearing inside.
The negatives about the LR plates is that the hardware was as cheap as it can get(I replaced all the bolts and nuts), There is no room for a lock nut or a lock washer for the top strut bolt, because there is not enough room for adequate thread clearance.
The spherical bearing inside the plate has soo much play in it that I can see it moving and when I told Dave Lindsey about it, he told me that the whole bearing is loose in the plate and he would send me some shims to fix it. After ruining my struts to remove the plates to "shim" the bearings, the bearing were NOT loose in the plate, the bearing had play inside of it...so I was right from the beginning.
The bearing that the strut is fastened to has soo much play in it that I physically see it moving inside of the outer race. Everytime I hit any bump at all, there is an enormous clunking noises from the camber plates. Suspension components should not have ANY play in them, especially components that are supposed to be used for racing.
I would advocate the Racer's Edge, bottom mount Cround Control, and the Weltmeister plates. I would also recommend a coilover conversion if you are thinking about installing camber plates, so you have adjustable ride height as well as an adjustable alignment. I have personally seen Racer's Edge ones and they are really really NICE!...just kinda expensive, but what isn't on these cars.
I am running the Lindsey Racing plates and absolutely hate them. The design is sweet if you have coilovers as the 2.5'' spring hat is part of the plate and has a thrust bearing so the weight of the car sets on the actual plate, not the small bearing inside.
The negatives about the LR plates is that the hardware was as cheap as it can get(I replaced all the bolts and nuts), There is no room for a lock nut or a lock washer for the top strut bolt, because there is not enough room for adequate thread clearance.
The spherical bearing inside the plate has soo much play in it that I can see it moving and when I told Dave Lindsey about it, he told me that the whole bearing is loose in the plate and he would send me some shims to fix it. After ruining my struts to remove the plates to "shim" the bearings, the bearing were NOT loose in the plate, the bearing had play inside of it...so I was right from the beginning.
The bearing that the strut is fastened to has soo much play in it that I physically see it moving inside of the outer race. Everytime I hit any bump at all, there is an enormous clunking noises from the camber plates. Suspension components should not have ANY play in them, especially components that are supposed to be used for racing.
I would advocate the Racer's Edge, bottom mount Cround Control, and the Weltmeister plates. I would also recommend a coilover conversion if you are thinking about installing camber plates, so you have adjustable ride height as well as an adjustable alignment. I have personally seen Racer's Edge ones and they are really really NICE!...just kinda expensive, but what isn't on these cars.
02-21-2009, 07:17 PM
#9
The Impaler
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As for the mookeehs, I've never used em. They look pretty cheaply made honestly, but then again they are pretty cheap.
02-21-2009, 07:19 PM
#10
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Top mount plates mount above the body and cannot be used with strut braces. Bottom mount is how the factory strut mounts are installed, so you can use a strut brace in conjunction with the camber plates.
I am running the Lindsey Racing plates and absolutely hate them. The design is sweet if you have coilovers as the 2.5'' spring hat is part of the plate and has a thrust bearing so the weight of the car sets on the actual plate, not the small bearing inside.
The negatives about the LR plates is that the hardware was as cheap as it can get(I replaced all the bolts and nuts), There is no room for a lock nut or a lock washer for the top strut bolt, because there is not enough room for adequate thread clearance.
The spherical bearing inside the plate has soo much play in it that I can see it moving and when I told Dave Lindsey about it, he told me that the whole bearing is loose in the plate and he would send me some shims to fix it. After ruining my struts to remove the plates to "shim" the bearings, the bearing were NOT loose in the plate, the bearing had play inside of it...so I was right from the beginning.
The bearing that the strut is fastened to has soo much play in it that I physically see it moving inside of the outer race. Everytime I hit any bump at all, there is an enormous clunking noises from the camber plates. Suspension components should not have ANY play in them, especially components that are supposed to be used for racing.
I would advocate the Racer's Edge, bottom mount Cround Control, and the Weltmeister plates. I would also recommend a coilover conversion if you are thinking about installing camber plates, so you have adjustable ride height as well as an adjustable alignment. I have personally seen Racer's Edge ones and they are really really NICE!...just kinda expensive, but what isn't on these cars.
I am running the Lindsey Racing plates and absolutely hate them. The design is sweet if you have coilovers as the 2.5'' spring hat is part of the plate and has a thrust bearing so the weight of the car sets on the actual plate, not the small bearing inside.
The negatives about the LR plates is that the hardware was as cheap as it can get(I replaced all the bolts and nuts), There is no room for a lock nut or a lock washer for the top strut bolt, because there is not enough room for adequate thread clearance.
The spherical bearing inside the plate has soo much play in it that I can see it moving and when I told Dave Lindsey about it, he told me that the whole bearing is loose in the plate and he would send me some shims to fix it. After ruining my struts to remove the plates to "shim" the bearings, the bearing were NOT loose in the plate, the bearing had play inside of it...so I was right from the beginning.
The bearing that the strut is fastened to has soo much play in it that I physically see it moving inside of the outer race. Everytime I hit any bump at all, there is an enormous clunking noises from the camber plates. Suspension components should not have ANY play in them, especially components that are supposed to be used for racing.
I would advocate the Racer's Edge, bottom mount Cround Control, and the Weltmeister plates. I would also recommend a coilover conversion if you are thinking about installing camber plates, so you have adjustable ride height as well as an adjustable alignment. I have personally seen Racer's Edge ones and they are really really NICE!...just kinda expensive, but what isn't on these cars.
02-21-2009, 07:30 PM
#11
Race Director
Ground control bottom mount here, no complaints...good piece at a fair price.
Tarett Engineering offers a set as well: http://www.tarett.com/items/944-seri...amp-detail.htm
Tarett Engineering offers a set as well: http://www.tarett.com/items/944-seri...amp-detail.htm
02-21-2009, 07:32 PM
#12
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Ground control bottom mount here, no complaints...good piece at a fair price.
Tarett Engineering offers a set as well: http://www.tarett.com/items/944-seri...amp-detail.htm
Tarett Engineering offers a set as well: http://www.tarett.com/items/944-seri...amp-detail.htm
02-21-2009, 07:34 PM
#13
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top mounts are just more of a hassle in my mind. The way the top mount supports itself seems like an accident waiting to happen if any mount bolts come loose.
If you have the plate installed underneath, the weight of the car is supported more securely without worries. The plates installed underneath will raise the ride height like you said, however, with coilovers, it is much easier to adjust the height on the coilovers than it is to have to screw around with top mounted plates. I understand your point about having a very low car and maybe it is the best thing for you, but I guess it is just a matter of opinion. I had a KLA strut brace on my car before upgrading to camber plates, so it was much easier to reuse the strut brace, than to buy a proprietary strut bar.
If you have the plate installed underneath, the weight of the car is supported more securely without worries. The plates installed underneath will raise the ride height like you said, however, with coilovers, it is much easier to adjust the height on the coilovers than it is to have to screw around with top mounted plates. I understand your point about having a very low car and maybe it is the best thing for you, but I guess it is just a matter of opinion. I had a KLA strut brace on my car before upgrading to camber plates, so it was much easier to reuse the strut brace, than to buy a proprietary strut bar.
02-21-2009, 07:40 PM
#14
The Impaler
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Just thought I'd add that.
02-21-2009, 08:04 PM
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