Camber plates info thread
#32
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#34
#35
Nordschleife Master
You can borrow them anytime you are downtown next. just call me.
#36
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I have a 7/8th deep socket that works. You have to use an impact gun and just "shock" it on there, otherwise you can use a 7/8's O2 sensor socket with an open side (which I also have) and stick a 10mm wrench in there to hold the strut top while you turn the socket. (very goofy system)
You can borrow them anytime you are downtown next. just call me.
You can borrow them anytime you are downtown next. just call me.
#40
Rennlist Member
The hardware on the LR camber plates was not too short, the grade of hardware was too low. Allen cap screws need to be class 12.9 not 8.8. The case hardened allen cap screws do not strip like the 8.8 class hardware...in fact, I have never seen allen cap screws that were not black 12.9 class in anything. The 8.8 steel allen cap screws included strip out after the first 2 or 3 uses.
#41
Rennlist Junkie Forever
My .02 cents.
The Kokeln are the way to go for sure.
BUT... only if you have non-stock control arms. This because they allow the entire strut to sit higher in the car, which allows the control arm to move further in its upward arc, which obviously creates a more extreme ball angle at it's full extension than otherwise possible.
So... you can get the car lower with out sacrificing wheel trave (which is why they are designed the way they are). But, you have to have ball joints that can work with the extra travel, and/or redrill the cross member to reposition the A arm higher (upwards) in the control arm.
In any case, these are what I'll be moving to.
TonyG
The Kokeln are the way to go for sure.
BUT... only if you have non-stock control arms. This because they allow the entire strut to sit higher in the car, which allows the control arm to move further in its upward arc, which obviously creates a more extreme ball angle at it's full extension than otherwise possible.
So... you can get the car lower with out sacrificing wheel trave (which is why they are designed the way they are). But, you have to have ball joints that can work with the extra travel, and/or redrill the cross member to reposition the A arm higher (upwards) in the control arm.
In any case, these are what I'll be moving to.
TonyG
#42
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
My .02 cents.
The Kokeln are the way to go for sure.
BUT... only if you have non-stock control arms. This because they allow the entire strut to sit higher in the car, which allows the control arm to move further in its upward arc, which obviously creates a more extreme ball angle at it's full extension than otherwise possible.
So... you can get the car lower with out sacrificing wheel trave (which is why they are designed the way they are). But, you have to have ball joints that can work with the extra travel, and/or redrill the cross member to reposition the A arm higher (upwards) in the control arm.
In any case, these are what I'll be moving to.
TonyG
The Kokeln are the way to go for sure.
BUT... only if you have non-stock control arms. This because they allow the entire strut to sit higher in the car, which allows the control arm to move further in its upward arc, which obviously creates a more extreme ball angle at it's full extension than otherwise possible.
So... you can get the car lower with out sacrificing wheel trave (which is why they are designed the way they are). But, you have to have ball joints that can work with the extra travel, and/or redrill the cross member to reposition the A arm higher (upwards) in the control arm.
In any case, these are what I'll be moving to.
TonyG
#43
Rennlist Junkie Forever
The trick is to redrill the cross member in conjunction with control arms that have ball joints with a greater range of travel.
It's on my never ending list of "to do" items.
TonyG
#44
The Impaler
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#45
Rennlist Junkie Forever
Or use 996/997 spindles.
But that, unfortunately screws up the tie rod angle which really can't be corrected enough for anything other than super stiff track cars.
Or custom struts with the spindle mounting bracket raised (which still needs the same requirements as a raised camber plate).
TonyG
TonyG
Last edited by TonyG; 02-25-2009 at 02:18 AM.