Lorax

Noted. thanks for the info.

Techno Duck

Anyone have pictures of the Ground Control specific stressbar?

I am heavily debating going with or without camber plates. I do track my car, but i am not one to bother making adjustments to the camber between track and street duty. I mainly do not like the compromise of having to adjust camber and the effect it has on the toe. I was using the KLA monoball mounts on my n/a and liked them also, only $220 for the pair also.

Lorax

Stock only gives you what... 2.0-3.0 degrees of adjustment? Not very much at all. Plus you get the solid mount which is nice.

jlturpin

schwank

I purchased my camber plates from an ebay seller in August of 07. They were brand new unused. Yes they are garishly pink anodized. They are labeled Guru Racing but they most closely resemble the Racer's Edge bottom mount. They have a bit of additional slotting in the bottom plate but otherwise look identical.

Best part was nobody else was bidding on them, maybe because of the color, and I picked them up for CHEAP. I still need a strut tower brace... planning to have my fabricator whip one up for me later this spring.

Rich Sandor

lol@gururacing! Thats oldskool 944 shizza.

Ya'll forgot the Dynatech camber plates (i'm rockin a set!)

MPD47

Kokeln are $750 FYI.

I have Kokeln's (in a box somewhere) and a set of ground control's on the car.

Lorax

Thanks, I know those are NLA, but do you have a link to a picture or something?

Thanks for the info mike.

LS1Porch

I have the Mookeh, i picked them up for $150 on thebay. They're fine, no complaints...they've taken a beating too.

Lorax

Could you post up some pics of how they are mounted?

Mike Lindsey

Chris 951.

I'll address your comments...

The negatives about the LR plates is that the hardware was as cheap as it can get(I replaced all the bolts and nuts), There is no room for a lock nut or a lock washer for the top strut bolt, because there is not enough room for adequate thread clearance.

There is noting cheap about the bolts we supply. They are equal to or better then what everybody else supplies if they even supply bolts. It seems the real issue here is they didn't accommodate your strut brace in length for it's thickness. A simple phone call could get you longer bolts as we have some 30mm versions. Some strut braces, like the ones we sell use those bolts and don't require anything longer. You are using something that does.

The spherical bearing inside the plate has so much play in it that I can see it moving and when I told Dave Lindsey about it, he told me that the whole bearing is loose in the plate and he would send me some shims to fix it. After ruining my struts to remove the plates to "shim" the bearings, the bearing were NOT loose in the plate, the bearing had play inside of it...so I was right from the beginning.

You were probably asked if the bearing race was moving up or down and we were told yes or think so. So we sent shims. The bearings
were varying in width.

For quite some time, we couldn't seem to find a quality bearing with a real snug bearing fit. I had our bearing supplier get me 4 different manufacturers versions of the same part and they all seemed to be the same. They said that was the best they could do. They ranged from $18 to $35 per bearing. The $35 bearings seemed just like the $18 bearings only different in brand. Wasn't really sure where to go or how to correct the issue other then live with the clicking if you have a problem. Not all did.

We switched to a 3/4" bearing on our camber plates about a year ago. They were previously 5/8" inch which is what everybody else still uses. This 3/4" bearing is over kill since we never had a problem with a 5/8 failing, but we did it anyway. One reason was to see if we could get lucky and get a better quality (more surface area) in that size since the 5/8" seemed to be all the same. They didn't seem any different, only larger and stronger. We like the larger bearing since we have more clearance for the nut on the top. We still use a two
bearing system which most don't. Those relying on a single bearing
to support the weight of the car should be using a 3/4" in our
opinion.

A few weeks ago we finally found a bearing company that would make a custom tolerance bearing at a affordable price. We ordered in a pile of bearings and switched them out on all the camber plates kits we had in stock. We have enough for anybody who has purchased a set with the 3/4" bearing can get some and swap them if they want to. That's the question... do you need to? The answer is no, but for someone using them on a street car or dual purpose can way want to if they head any noise, they can.

The bearing that the strut is fastened to has so much play in it that I physically see it moving inside of the outer race. Everytime I hit any bump at all, there is an enormous clunking noises from the camber plates. Suspension components should not have ANY play in them, especially components that are supposed to be used for racing.

The new bearing is so stiff, it's hard to move using your hands. We are really happy with the new bearing. It seems that this problem didn't exist until about two years ago. The first few years of selling plates we don't recall a issue or any complaints. Not sure why the bearings seemed to get sloppier while using the same bearings from the same company. Doesn't really matter now since it's been addressed and the product is further improved which we always do when given the opportunity.

The camber plates Tarrett sells are ours. Their stock includes our 3/4" bearing model with the new snug fit bearings.

jmj951

I run the Ground Control bottom-mount plates, but I purchased them with the GC front struts, which are shorter than stock, so lowering the car is not an issue at all if you buy them as a combo. I've lowered the front as much as I can without dropping it lower than the rear, and I almost never hit bump stops on the street (and I never hit them on the track). The rear is fairly low, I'm using a modified eccentric bolt from GC that allows the rear to drop much lower. Camber adjustment is very easy.

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=696/CA=159

theedge

I have DynaTechs and theyre awsome, well worth it if you can get a set. The only thing im a bit unhappy about is I have yet to find a socket that can fit in there to tighten the nut really tight.

tconn

Dynatech mount.

Lorax

Thanks! I'll add that to the list shortly