944 Aftermarket Control Arms
#16
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The stock arms are perfectly adequate for street use provided they are maintained reasonably well [pins and bushings].
For track use, there are a few good alternatives:
Fabcar: Got 'em on my car. Easy to refurbish with parts available from OG Racing
Blaszak: Marcus makes a good product, well proven and easily rebuildable http://www.blaszakprecision.com/Control_Arms.html
Racers Edge: Karl's arms are another good choice http://www.racersedge-inc.com/racers...open&id=11.3.5
Charlie Arms are good IF you can get them, and get parts to keep them in good shape.
There are others, but these options all have a good record of use in race applications over many years.
For track use, there are a few good alternatives:
Fabcar: Got 'em on my car. Easy to refurbish with parts available from OG Racing
Blaszak: Marcus makes a good product, well proven and easily rebuildable http://www.blaszakprecision.com/Control_Arms.html
Racers Edge: Karl's arms are another good choice http://www.racersedge-inc.com/racers...open&id=11.3.5
Charlie Arms are good IF you can get them, and get parts to keep them in good shape.
There are others, but these options all have a good record of use in race applications over many years.
#17
Drifting
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Here's a thread about another alternative which should be available in the coming months. He plans on offering them with and without camber/caster adjustment links, early and late offset. All will use the early 944 ball joints, for easy and low cost replacement.
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ht=aftermarket
https://rennlist.com/forums/924-931-...ht=aftermarket
#18
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I think he plans on selling them for somewhere in the neighnorhood of $600 - $700 for the pair, including new ball joints (more for the ones with adjustable links, though). This is well below other aftermarket alternatives (and OEM), except for the early steel arms, which won't hold a candle to these for strength or durability.
#19
Drifting
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The ball joints, not being adjustable is also a drawback. Also, billeted/cast, as opposed to welded, seems to make much more sense.
#21
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He plans on putting the adjustment on the inboard links rather than at the ball joint, to reduce bending and shear load on the threaded joints (roughly half the load inboard vs. at the ball joint).
#22
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Good to know. So, do they have a wider range of motion than the late ball joints? I was designing these new control arms with a 7.5 degree bend in them to compensate for 2" lowering (to correct the ball joint angle). Mayble that's not necessary with the early ball joints then...
#25
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Sure, I'll ask my brother in law to do that. He has my car, the late control arms, and the early ball joints, so I'm a bit handicapped at the moment.
#26
Drifting
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Ahh. Not well versed with the early joints. Good to know.