APKhaos

The stock arms are perfectly adequate for street use provided they are maintained reasonably well [pins and bushings].

For track use, there are a few good alternatives:

Fabcar: Got 'em on my car. Easy to refurbish with parts available from OG Racing
Blaszak: Marcus makes a good product, well proven and easily rebuildable http://www.blaszakprecision.com/Control_Arms.html
Racers Edge: Karl's arms are another good choice http://www.racersedge-inc.com/racers...open&id=11.3.5
Charlie Arms are good IF you can get them, and get parts to keep them in good shape.

There are others, but these options all have a good record of use in race applications over many years.

tone3721

Billeted would be nice. If this current rebuild doesnt last, why buy OEM arms, when these arms can be a had for a few extra bucks? I wont have it rebuilt again, it it doesnt hold. Last time I checked, I think OEM, was like 5-600 bucks / arm.

vt951

I think he plans on selling them for somewhere in the neighnorhood of $600 - $700 for the pair, including new ball joints (more for the ones with adjustable links, though). This is well below other aftermarket alternatives (and OEM), except for the early steel arms, which won't hold a candle to these for strength or durability.

tone3721

The ball joints, not being adjustable is also a drawback. Also, billeted/cast, as opposed to welded, seems to make much more sense.

M758

Why would you need to adjust the ball joint? The early joints take lowering just fine and camberplates are ideal for simple camber adjustments.

vt951

He plans on putting the adjustment on the inboard links rather than at the ball joint, to reduce bending and shear load on the threaded joints (roughly half the load inboard vs. at the ball joint).

vt951

Good to know. So, do they have a wider range of motion than the late ball joints? I was designing these new control arms with a 7.5 degree bend in them to compensate for 2" lowering (to correct the ball joint angle). Mayble that's not necessary with the early ball joints then...

M758

I have never seen and early joint fail.

You can test this also by simply bending the steel joint and alum arm one till it stops and compare the angles.

Animus

+1

vt951

Sure, I'll ask my brother in law to do that. He has my car, the late control arms, and the early ball joints, so I'm a bit handicapped at the moment.

tone3721

Ahh. Not well versed with the early joints. Good to know.