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Turbo head, 3.0 block ?.

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Old 01-25-2009, 06:58 PM
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blade7
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Question Turbo head, 3.0 block ?.

I searched but didn't find, any pictures of a turbo head that's been welded/modified to fit the 3.0 block ?, something to do with the waterway I think. Cheers.
Old 01-25-2009, 07:36 PM
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Chris White
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I don't have any pics here - but its a common procedure.
Old 01-25-2009, 07:58 PM
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blade7
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Thanks for replying, what's involved exactly ?, I know people use a 2.7 head if they can find one but surely the turbo head with the better exhaust valves and coated ports is a better option.
Old 01-25-2009, 08:04 PM
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gt37vgt
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another option is to block it off and use an electric water pump pumping into the head
Old 01-25-2009, 08:48 PM
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333pg333
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Of the OEM parts the 2.7 head is the best. After that you can spend all manner of $ on making the 2.5L as good or better...and to fit of course.
Old 01-25-2009, 08:58 PM
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Originally Posted by blade7
Thanks for replying, what's involved exactly ?, I know people use a 2.7 head if they can find one but surely the turbo head with the better exhaust valves and coated ports is a better option.
Maybe... but you can easily coat the 2.7L exhaust port and swap in sodium filled exhause valves. You have to wonder what the trade off is for a 2.5L ceramic lined exhaust port is compared to a portable head that has a CC designed for a 104mm bore?
Old 01-25-2009, 09:30 PM
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Weston Dillard
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It's not real scientific. You weld up the coolant passage in the head (upper left in photo), and you weld up the coolant pasage in the block. Then you run a restrictor in the waterpump (basically a thermostat with the center cut out), and Bob's your Uncle. There are much more elegant souutions, but my car has been running like this for 8 years. Don't try to use a Cometic gasket though, they will leak where the coolant passages are mismatched.

West
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:39 PM
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gt37vgt
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sodium filled ?? ever seen a standard 1 pound valve melt ??? if you want it good ones good stainless chev valves are the answer. but its better to make use of what you have if you get the 2 head gaskets in front of you you will understand whats required
Old 01-25-2009, 10:43 PM
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Originally Posted by gt37vgt
sodium filled ?? ever seen a standard 1 pound valve melt ??? if you want it good ones good stainless chev valves are the answer. but its better to make use of what you have if you get the 2 head gaskets in front of you you will understand whats required

Umm, the factory exhaust valves are sodium filled...as well as many of the hi-po chevy valves.
Old 01-25-2009, 11:01 PM
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gt37vgt
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hmmm didn't know it was common in after market . expensive? ex nascar TI valves are my favorite thing at the moment .
but tuning is more important to valve survival
Old 01-25-2009, 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by gt37vgt
hmmm didn't know it was common in after market . expensive? ex nascar TI valves are my favorite thing at the moment .
but tuning is more important to valve survival
Pretty common in both OEM and aftermarket and a stock 951 exhaust valve is about $100 but they're pretty durable so you can find a used set for about $80.
The sodium fill helps take heat away from the valve face and distribute it to the stem. My 951 and ZO6 both have sodium SS valves.

While I'm not sure what the exacture mixture is in a 951, my Z has a 78% potassium and 22% sodium mixture. One thing to be aware of is, as far as the Z goes, the NaK mixture is unstable and may spontaneously combust when exposed to air with 50% or higher humidity which is why you shouldn't open or shorten Z06 exhaust valve stems. In case you ever needed that random info....It may come in handy at a party.
Old 01-25-2009, 11:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Weston Dillard
It's not real scientific. You weld up the coolant passage in the head (upper left in photo), and you weld up the coolant pasage in the block. Then you run a restrictor in the waterpump (basically a thermostat with the center cut out), and Bob's your Uncle. There are much more elegant souutions, but my car has been running like this for 8 years. Don't try to use a Cometic gasket though, they will leak where the coolant passages are mismatched.

West
Hey West. It looks like those intake valve are domed for more compression eh? nice trick.

Seriously though. Weld it up? That passage is not needed?
Old 01-26-2009, 12:07 AM
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DEVCON.......concave for less wight and compression yeh its to recycle the hot water during warm up i think
Old 01-27-2009, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by Weston Dillard
It's not real scientific. You weld up the coolant passage in the head (upper left in photo), and you weld up the coolant pasage in the block. Then you run a restrictor in the waterpump (basically a thermostat with the center cut out), and Bob's your Uncle. There are much more elegant souutions, but my car has been running like this for 8 years. Don't try to use a Cometic gasket though, they will leak where the coolant passages are mismatched.

West
Thank's for the picture, is that all there is to it ?, and what head gasket do you use.
Old 01-27-2009, 11:03 PM
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Weston Dillard
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blade7 - I have run both regular and wide fire.

95ONE, that's my understanding. You can't allow the thermostat to close though, hence the cut out thermostat.

West



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