stand alone options
#31
for accurate ignition timing you must use crank triggering and for rpm resolution its not as simple as more teeth = more resolution = more better .. the ECU can easily get confused and pick up the wrong crank tooth as they are to close together .. when the ECU see's the sync (cam) trigger it starts sceduling the timing according to the next crank tooth if there is any play in the cambelt and there is . say 5 crank degrees the ECU will pick up the wrong tooth and timing is then 1 tooth out .
and although i've had limited experience with motronic tricking i still say if you don't want bells and whistles i can't see why you would bother with stand alone . i like the stupid extra features and compleate control
and although i've had limited experience with motronic tricking i still say if you don't want bells and whistles i can't see why you would bother with stand alone . i like the stupid extra features and compleate control
#32
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Chris makes good points, its realtively easy to get a car up a running on a standalone, but getting it to run like a factory ECU takes a long time and sometimes a lot of frustration.
Took me over 6 months to get to work like stock with cold start, hot start, temp compensation, deceleration, air cond idle up etc. (and its still only 95%)
Buy a unit from a vendor that you can get a proven map for matching your config....or be prepared to play and play...
rgds
mike
P.S I have a 4424 from EMS (Aussie crowd)
Took me over 6 months to get to work like stock with cold start, hot start, temp compensation, deceleration, air cond idle up etc. (and its still only 95%)
Buy a unit from a vendor that you can get a proven map for matching your config....or be prepared to play and play...
rgds
mike
P.S I have a 4424 from EMS (Aussie crowd)
#33
Ecu with poor CPU computing power only can suffer from this.
for accurate ignition timing you must use crank triggering and for rpm resolution its not as simple as more teeth = more resolution = more better .. the ECU can easily get confused and pick up the wrong crank tooth as they are to close together .. when the ECU see's the sync (cam) trigger it starts sceduling the timing according to the next crank tooth if there is any play in the cambelt and there is . say 5 crank degrees the ECU will pick up the wrong tooth and timing is then 1 tooth out .
and although i've had limited experience with motronic tricking i still say if you don't want bells and whistles i can't see why you would bother with stand alone . i like the stupid extra features and compleate control
and although i've had limited experience with motronic tricking i still say if you don't want bells and whistles i can't see why you would bother with stand alone . i like the stupid extra features and compleate control
#34
na its nothing to do with computing power .the computer assumes the 42nd crank tooth is striat after the cam sync tooth but if the teeth are to small and the cam advances or retards due to its inertia the 41st or 43rd tooth may apear after the sync tooth
#35
I'm thinking about screwing allen heads into my Fidanza to make it a 60-2. The wheel I currently have on my Crank pulley is just too small.
I have to put the sensor so close to the wheel that it sometimes hits the sensor for it to read at cranking speeds.
It was pointed out to me by my tuner that if you look at any 60-2 wheel from the factory, it's almost all off the flywheel. Larger. Better amplitude at Slower starter speeds. I've been trying to figure out this fix for a while now. I would just use the ring gear teeth, but I was told the Motec is not set to read that specific number of teeth. If anyone knows any differently, please let me know.
He also stated that we can make one with less teeth will get the job done just fine.
The current 968 flywheel has 60-2 notches, but it is the ridiculous dual mass one. No thanks.
I have to put the sensor so close to the wheel that it sometimes hits the sensor for it to read at cranking speeds.
It was pointed out to me by my tuner that if you look at any 60-2 wheel from the factory, it's almost all off the flywheel. Larger. Better amplitude at Slower starter speeds. I've been trying to figure out this fix for a while now. I would just use the ring gear teeth, but I was told the Motec is not set to read that specific number of teeth. If anyone knows any differently, please let me know.
He also stated that we can make one with less teeth will get the job done just fine.
The current 968 flywheel has 60-2 notches, but it is the ridiculous dual mass one. No thanks.
#36
Formula One Spin Doctor
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I'm thinking about screwing allen heads into my Fidanza to make it a 60-2. The wheel I currently have on my Crank pulley is just too small.
I have to put the sensor so close to the wheel that it sometimes hits the sensor for it to read at cranking speeds.
It was pointed out to me by my tuner that if you look at any 60-2 wheel from the factory, it's almost all off the flywheel. Larger. Better amplitude at Slower starter speeds. I've been trying to figure out this fix for a while now. I would just use the ring gear teeth, but I was told the Motec is not set to read that specific number of teeth. If anyone knows any differently, please let me know.
He also stated that we can make one with less teeth will get the job done just fine.
The current 968 flywheel has 60-2 notches, but it is the ridiculous dual mass one. No thanks.
I have to put the sensor so close to the wheel that it sometimes hits the sensor for it to read at cranking speeds.
It was pointed out to me by my tuner that if you look at any 60-2 wheel from the factory, it's almost all off the flywheel. Larger. Better amplitude at Slower starter speeds. I've been trying to figure out this fix for a while now. I would just use the ring gear teeth, but I was told the Motec is not set to read that specific number of teeth. If anyone knows any differently, please let me know.
He also stated that we can make one with less teeth will get the job done just fine.
The current 968 flywheel has 60-2 notches, but it is the ridiculous dual mass one. No thanks.
Best route and pin the flywheel , you can use back the stock sensors ........
You can also use a fidanza flywheel for a 968 , uses the same pin count , but I'm not a fan of alloy flywheels.....
Having it on the Flywheel is not the only way , but is the best way helps to avoid engine mis-management !
anyway :
Who let the dogs out , Woof !Woof !Woof !!!
#37
the bolts in the alloy flywheel is an excellent idea and the best bolts are double hex as a Allen style may appear as 2 bolts at some speeds due to the Allen hole in it .Singlr hex bolts may appair sooner or later depenting on the sides of them but you could index them and loctite them .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
#38
Addict
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the bolts in the alloy flywheel is an excellent idea and the best bolts are double hex as a Allen style may appear as 2 bolts at some speeds due to the Allen hole in it .Singlr hex bolts may appair sooner or later depenting on the sides of them but you could index them and loctite them .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
#39
Formula One Spin Doctor
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the bolts in the alloy flywheel is an excellent idea and the best bolts are double hex as a Allen style may appear as 2 bolts at some speeds due to the Allen hole in it .Singlr hex bolts may appair sooner or later depenting on the sides of them but you could index them and loctite them .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the porsceh sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
#40
the bolts in the alloy flywheel is an excellent idea and the best bolts are double hex as a Allen style may appear as 2 bolts at some speeds due to the Allen hole in it .Single hex bolts may appear sooner or later depending on the sides of them but you could index them and loctite them .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the Porsche sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
hey how small has proved too small ?
you may be able to keep the set up you got and change fron the Porsche sensor to the Motec gt101 sensor ?
i have the motec trigger wheel 12 tooth 145mm 5mm square teeth. you only need 8 teeth for reasonable rpm resilotion. so i realy would say no more than 32 .
#41
Best route and pin the flywheel , you can use back the stock sensors ........
You can also use a fidanza flywheel for a 968 , uses the same pin count , but I'm not a fan of alloy flywheels.....
Having it on the Flywheel is not the only way , but is the best way helps to avoid engine mis-management !
anyway :
Who let the dogs out , Woof !Woof !Woof !!!
You can also use a fidanza flywheel for a 968 , uses the same pin count , but I'm not a fan of alloy flywheels.....
Having it on the Flywheel is not the only way , but is the best way helps to avoid engine mis-management !
anyway :
Who let the dogs out , Woof !Woof !Woof !!!
I was thinking about that. The Fidanza 968 Flywheel. BUT. All else is 951 Clutch/belhousing, etc.
Specific question is. .. Is the 968 Aluminum Flywheel interchangable with the 951 Flywheel. Can I just "swap" them out without any consequences?
Damn. the weight difference between the two are HUGE. 8lbs vs 14lbs for the 968 and its thick outer metal 60-2 wheel. I think I would rather install the allen heads.
Do you guys have a pic you can post of what you would screw in? I might just install the Allen heads and Lathe it down to bottom of hole as a solid stud and also ensure a perfect circle with no run-out at the same time.
EDIT: SORRY IAN. I didn't mean to hi-jack, but apparently I did.
Last edited by 95ONE; 01-15-2009 at 09:35 PM.