I recommend Link systems. Runs with stock triggers and is extremely flexible, powerful and easy to use.

 

Well I work at the shop and he is a certified HKS tuner, and we are a HKS dealer.

 

texas might be a bit of a hike for a tune.. hahah

 

many will run standard trigger but you often cant get sequential or multi coil is why people change the trigger

 

Many? That's a bit exaggerated isn't it
But true that you can't run sequential with stock triggers. But then you can just add a cam sensor and still run the rpm count as stock at the rear!

I don't agree that running sequential is the reason people change trigger since 99% just change to a crank trigger solution (that can only run batch)

 

Easiest way to get sequential ignition (like COP) is to add cam sync and with VEMS you can get rid of the crank home sensor also if you do that. Only the starter ring will be used as rpm and cam sync to reset firing sequence.

 

http://www.linkecu.com/products/engi...ecus/g4-xtreme

 

i am going with the link G3

 

Ok, I was seeing if I could not jump in on this…but I can’t resist!
Picking a standalone management system is not an easy task, there are many out there. It is important to develop an understanding of what you want before you go looking, otherwise you might be enticed by the bell and whistles and not the primary needs.
Most important – Accuracy
To be a little more clear, ignition accuracy. You hear lots of people talking about air/fuel ratios and quoting exact target ratios. In truth the engine will perform quite well if you are within 5% of your goal, sure being right on with the A/F ratio is good but it is nowhere near as important as the ignition timing. Ignition timing needed to be as accurate as possible – if you are off by a degree on a high boost turbo engine you run the risk of detonation and destruction.
How the unit calculates spark timing is important. Many units use the TDC mark (either actual or virtual) to calculate engine speed – if you are only doing that once a revolution then your timing accuracy in a dynamic situation (changing engine speed) can be off by a significant margin. Find out how the systems you are considering calculate the timing. For example – the Electromotive systems use a 60-2 tooth system (which they patented by the way!) that measures engine speed on every tooth and feeds that information to a software based engine model That calculates the engine position. It reacts to changes in engine speed every 6 degrees of crank movement. Some of the systems that use the original triggers are only figuring the engine speed once every 360 degrees – with a chance of a significant error on an engine with a rapid change in engine speed.
SO – first off, look at how the system actually functions before looking at the user features. Having cool bells and whistles on a inaccurate system are like adding more type ‘R’ stickers…..
Fuel curve –
Find out how the fuel needs are calculated, the fuel curve is really important! Most novices are sucked in by a big VE table – lots of cells to plug in numbers. To get real drivability you need a lot more modifiers to get the cold start, acceleration enrichment, air temp, water temp, and many other issues that affect the performance calibrated and included in the calculation. The VE table is the last thing you should play with!
Just as important as the system itself is the vendor that will help you get the most out of it. Customer support is really important for any EMS. In fact I would go with a lesser system with great support over the best system with no support. Hardware is one thing and tuning the software is another – the best hardware in the world is crap without a good program to run.
Lastly – and specifically to do with our cars – don’t reuse any of the stock wiring and electronics. Really. Its 20 years old, used and abused from heat. If you care about accuracy get new sensors, especially anything magnetic or with a resistive trace (TPS).
One more last thing (!) beware of some ‘race quality’ stuff….some of the EMS stuff out there (including one of the best in the business, big $ stuff) is not made for street engines. Look for provisions for cold drivability, idle air adjustment for AC and off throttle response. ‘Real’ race EMS does not care about this stuff (as it shouldn’t) but it is important if you want a good street tune.

 

+1 to what Chris says.

And just for the information. VEMS uses whatever trigger you like and uses ALL of the teeth for rpm information. If you have 132 tooth wheel like 951, then it uses them all, and crank home signal is just that, a sync signal.

 

+2

 

Sounds good logic.

 

Unless you already have the G3, go with the G4. The G4 has the better enclosure now and some better functions that the G3 does not have.
For those that have not heard or seen anything about the new G4 system from Link, take a look.

I just had my Cup engine mapped using one. The ignition timing is rock solid and I really like the way ican cahnge the Air fuel ratio at ther track without having to re map the engine.

 

Chris makes good points, its realtively easy to get a car up a running on a standalone, but getting it to run like a factory ECU takes a long time and sometimes a lot of frustration.

Took me over 6 months to get to work like stock with cold start, hot start, temp compensation, deceleration, air cond idle up etc. (and its still only 95%)

Buy a unit from a vendor that you can get a proven map for matching your config....or be prepared to play and play...

rgds
mike

P.S I have a 4424 from EMS (Aussie crowd)

 

Go with Chris White's setup and call it a day - best support, best service and one of if not the most knowledgable guys out there for these cars.

Now go forth and get it done.