Vinster88

Hello, everyone. I have recently completed me HG replacement. I've noticed a funny hard start problem. I placed an advancing timing light at the timing mark in the cam housing. at Idle I am at 10 degrees advanced. if i dial the light back to zero, I'm one tooth behind the the timing mark.
Did I miss the correct belt position by one tooth? or should I be advanced by 10 degrees at low idle. Thanks, Vince

Ski

There is a notch on the flywheel, which should be right in the middle of the opening in the bell housing. Set that then check your cam timing mark.

Fluidplay

mmm...with the (FW) notch centered in the opening, would the #1 pistion be at TDC, compression stroke? meaning the cam notch would be lined up as well? and all should be where it's should to be?

blown 944

timing is 4.4-4.7 degrees stock at idle on these things (way too low IMO).

Is your TPS adjusted properly?

Double check crank and cam timing, rolling engine over by hand to verify that the belt install is correct.

blown 944

crank turns 2x to every cam rotation so it could be 180 and not show.

If all is right it should be FW mark lined up and cam mark lined up.

Ski

Yes, this is the only way I set timing, for both track and street. However, if the head is milled too many times, there is a recommended increase in HG thickness to maintain timing.

Fluidplay

Could this potentially be my problem with the running rich, rough idle and producing the knock? That being having too much material taken off the head. I know no material was removed from the block. I had the head re-worked at LR and they didn't include a build and/or work sheet on what was done other than a copy of my original order. When I called I was informed "only a clean up pass" was made... now I don't know if that was .005 or .020 is considered clean up. I've been chasing down my A/f mixture that seems to be all over the place. I just ordered a new O2 thinking that at this point the existing O2 sensor is probably pretty fouled up and not giving the DME a good reading and over compensating by delivering more fuel and creating more of a problem.
Definitely going to check the timing marks to make sure the belts are where they should be and eliminate that variable.

fast951

11 deg at idle does not sound right. Make sure the TPS is actually generating the IDLE signal and not PT signal.

Fluidplay

John, I believe the TPS is set up correctly. It clicks just as I start to move the throttle back. How do you test for an IDLE and PT signals?

Ski

Here is a good link to TPS stuff

http://www.arnnworx.com/tps-repair.htm

rlm328

Bret,

Thanks that is an excellent article.

Fluidplay

Replaced the TPS a while ago as part of the search for the problem.
Checked all the timing marks tonight...#1 piston @ TDC, Spec FW was marked when new clutch was installed and as much as I could tell was centered in opening, cam mark was centered in window...so it seems the belt/timing is set correctly.
Things I think could be causing this:
FPR...new adjustable, but could still be bad and need replacing
ISV...removed, cleaned and re-sealed, possible replacement still needed
Chips...Max951
DME...??
Head milled to point where a thicker HG was needed, no way to check unless I remove
Harness...ohm'd out good
MAF...unsure
What else could be causing these symptoms. What's your guess?
Thanks for all the help & support!!!
I'm not giving up