loctite on oil pan bolts?
#1
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I'm in the middle of the job right now. I tried searching... I found one post a long time ago that suggested loctite (perhaps blue?) on the oil pan bolts to keep them from backing out. Especially because 6 ftlbs isn't enough to stretch the bolts to keep them secure. I don't know, I defer to the RL wisdom. TIA.
Last edited by FRporscheman; 12-19-2008 at 08:19 PM.
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Oil pan bolts dont back out, once the rubber seal ages it hardens/shrinks
you'll have to tighten it up again... but that doesnt mean they loosen on their own.
Ive never used locktite for the oil pan gasket, and ive never have one leak afterwards either.
you'll have to tighten it up again... but that doesnt mean they loosen on their own.
Ive never used locktite for the oil pan gasket, and ive never have one leak afterwards either.
#3
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Thanks Lee, good to know.
Did oil pan gaskets always have the metal spacers? Maybe the loctite tip was pertaining to gaskets without spacers? Because my experience today was that once the bolts squished the gasket down to where it hits the spacer, it was easy to tighten them down and torque them. I went all the way around with my weak hand-held gun with low batteries, then I went around at 3 ftlb, then I went around at 7 ftlb, then again at 7 ftlb. It feels good; I hope it doesn't leak.
Did oil pan gaskets always have the metal spacers? Maybe the loctite tip was pertaining to gaskets without spacers? Because my experience today was that once the bolts squished the gasket down to where it hits the spacer, it was easy to tighten them down and torque them. I went all the way around with my weak hand-held gun with low batteries, then I went around at 3 ftlb, then I went around at 7 ftlb, then again at 7 ftlb. It feels good; I hope it doesn't leak.
#5
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^ +1
The pan bolts torque down against the Al spacers moulded into the gasket. Any change in the rubber will not make a bit of difference. I use a little blue loktite on the pan bolts, only out of an abundance fo caution. They are very lightly torqued, and I want them to stay that way:-)
The only secret to good sealing seems to be very clean, oil free, and completely dry surfaces. There are two schools of thought about silicone sealant for the loop over the rear of the case. Mine had Redline high temp silicone when I opened it, and I used it again on reassembly. Its been dead dry.
FWIW, the pan gasket will fail if the crankcase pressure from worn bores/rings gets too high. There's onlyy one solution for that, and its not a better gasket seal.
The pan bolts torque down against the Al spacers moulded into the gasket. Any change in the rubber will not make a bit of difference. I use a little blue loktite on the pan bolts, only out of an abundance fo caution. They are very lightly torqued, and I want them to stay that way:-)
The only secret to good sealing seems to be very clean, oil free, and completely dry surfaces. There are two schools of thought about silicone sealant for the loop over the rear of the case. Mine had Redline high temp silicone when I opened it, and I used it again on reassembly. Its been dead dry.
FWIW, the pan gasket will fail if the crankcase pressure from worn bores/rings gets too high. There's onlyy one solution for that, and its not a better gasket seal.
#6
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No need to worry about rings, this thing is being rebuilt
. I put a small dot of hondabond on the corners because that's what people told me to do. It didn't help at all and I wish I didn't even do that. What really did help is using zip-ties to hold the gasket to the pan (thanks rob76)!
I hope this damn thing doesn't leak. I never want to do an oil pan gasket again.
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I hope this damn thing doesn't leak. I never want to do an oil pan gasket again.
#7
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hmmm, gotta do this one of these days and was gonna ask about yamabond/hondabond as i've heard really good stories about this stuff.
so a sealant is not a good idea on the 951? anyone use yamabond?
so a sealant is not a good idea on the 951? anyone use yamabond?
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#8
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I used Hondabond on the corners, only because other people said to. Many people here have had huge problems with trying to get the gasket to seal, and they've tried varying amounts of the stuff. One person coated the entire gasket, both sides, with it.
#9
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I read somewhere the metal spacers on the newer replacement gaskets are too long. This causes the gasket to not be pinched tight enough to seal between the block & pan. Does anyone have an old vs. new they can confirm this with? Thanks