suspension rebuil options
#1
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I was planning on replacing my coilovers this winter to LEDA's however the current economic climate has made me think twice about my track budget. I have a TS and the previous ovner did some suspension work including
fabcar control arms
weltmister sways
drelin bushings all round
revalved yellows with 600lbs / 700 lbs front rear
the struts are probably 4 years old and have not had anything done to them and I was thinking they are probably due a rebuild. What cost effective options do I have to rebuild them?
while I am at it should I go to solid bushings all round? with this make an incramental noticable difference?
fabcar control arms
weltmister sways
drelin bushings all round
revalved yellows with 600lbs / 700 lbs front rear
the struts are probably 4 years old and have not had anything done to them and I was thinking they are probably due a rebuild. What cost effective options do I have to rebuild them?
while I am at it should I go to solid bushings all round? with this make an incramental noticable difference?
#2
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my advice given in private as I'm trying to sell my rebiult koni yellows over here is that koni yellow cost 60 to 70% of new cost for rebuild. bilstien is the shock for the budget racer .
#4
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Dan, what are you trying to achieve? And what is your budget?
Do you just want to do something for the sake of doing it, or do you really want a noticeable difference?
I'd say that delrin bushings to solid bushings, or koni to bilstein shocks is just incremental, at best. If your shocks are tired, have them rebuilt by koni and call it a day.
If you'd really like to notice a difference in the handling (and spend the money), get JRZs or Motons or something on that level - AND do a full solid suspension.
I think you may be best off with just a simple shock rebuild and leaving some of the budget for trying a new track or something.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Disclaimer: take my advice with a grain of salt... I've decided to do a cup car conversion on my car... Which would probably be better spent on more track events.
Do you just want to do something for the sake of doing it, or do you really want a noticeable difference?
I'd say that delrin bushings to solid bushings, or koni to bilstein shocks is just incremental, at best. If your shocks are tired, have them rebuilt by koni and call it a day.
If you'd really like to notice a difference in the handling (and spend the money), get JRZs or Motons or something on that level - AND do a full solid suspension.
I think you may be best off with just a simple shock rebuild and leaving some of the budget for trying a new track or something.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Disclaimer: take my advice with a grain of salt... I've decided to do a cup car conversion on my car... Which would probably be better spent on more track events.
#5
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my main aim was to freshen up the suspension and make sure it is in A1 cndition (as said the shocks are a little tired now) but like everyone, if this also adds to performance all the better
where can I get them rebuilt? do I have to send them to koni or can a local shop do them?
where can I get them rebuilt? do I have to send them to koni or can a local shop do them?
#6
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Koni NA or TrueChoice Motorsport will rebuild your struts.
It has been a few years so prices may have changed but they each quoted me around $150 per strut for a rebuild and $350 each to build to double adjustable (compression/rebound).
http://www.koni-na.com/
http://www.truechoice.com/default.as...e.com/menu.asp
It has been a few years so prices may have changed but they each quoted me around $150 per strut for a rebuild and $350 each to build to double adjustable (compression/rebound).
http://www.koni-na.com/
http://www.truechoice.com/default.as...e.com/menu.asp
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Well, a bit less than 2 front escort cup struts, with more adjustability, and if he knows exactly what he wants, they can be re-valved at the time.
Dan, you need to talk to Jason, at Paragon Products, about what you want to achieve, and go from there.
Bilsteins won't be adjustable, though I absolutely love them. You are tracking your car, and will likely want a bit more adjustability. You'll weant to get the base numbers right, so that you can adjust from there. If you really put in a lot of seat time, you will, hopefully, out drive the suspension. Then, you'll need to step up to bat for much more money.
On the street, it's much more cut and dried.
Dan, you need to talk to Jason, at Paragon Products, about what you want to achieve, and go from there.
Bilsteins won't be adjustable, though I absolutely love them. You are tracking your car, and will likely want a bit more adjustability. You'll weant to get the base numbers right, so that you can adjust from there. If you really put in a lot of seat time, you will, hopefully, out drive the suspension. Then, you'll need to step up to bat for much more money.
On the street, it's much more cut and dried.
#10
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they are only bump adjustable and only feisable in the front as the rears have to be compressed to ajust .
bilstiens valved to a spring set just HD not escorts are better than koni yellows no matter how many times you turn the top ****. also the bilstein are upside down with the gas in the 40mm upper leg .every time and from all accounts last longer
bilstiens valved to a spring set just HD not escorts are better than koni yellows no matter how many times you turn the top ****. also the bilstein are upside down with the gas in the 40mm upper leg .every time and from all accounts last longer
#12
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the basic Bilstein sport or heavy duty mostly yellow the only diffence with the cups is they are threaded and valving but the regular one can be valved the same . also the casing on the front struts is prety think so they can be wilded and re threaded or my local bilstien guy can do a budget adjustable set up with a captive circlip and 3 or for grooves also mark 1 golf bilteins sports are a perfect fit in the front and the hole strut is shorter giving you an extra inch of upward travel on a lowered car .
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the basic Bilstein sport or heavy duty mostly yellow the only diffence with the cups is they are threaded and valving but the regular one can be valved the same . also the casing on the front struts is prety think so they can be wilded and re threaded or my local bilstien guy can do a budget adjustable set up with a captive circlip and 3 or for grooves also mark 1 golf bilteins sports are a perfect fit in the front and the hole strut is shorter giving you an extra inch of upward travel on a lowered car .
#14
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made sense to me.... bilstien sport or HD's are yellow they have 40mm upper legs. They are almost the same inside as a Bilstein Cup. but have welded spring perches.you can also fit a VW golf mark 1 front bilstein HD strut in the front of your car and gain about 1" of upward suspension travel with out the shock bottoming out
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made sense to me.... bilstien sport or HD's are yellow they have 40mm upper legs. They are almost the same inside as a Bilstein Cup. but have welded spring perches.you can also fit a VW golf mark 1 front bilstein HD strut in the front of your car and gain about 1" of upward suspension travel with out the shock bottoming out
He needs a bit more adjustability. In the U.S., that means he is stuck with bilstein or koni, unless he wants to spend significantly, by that I mean about $1000 U.S., more for adjustability, beyond that provided by Koni. In the U.S. bilstein can retune the struts, but they will not be adjustable once he gets them back. With koni, he will have some adjustability.
If he wants more, he has to go to Leda, KW, Moton or some of the more exotic Koni's.