Techno Duck

Next week the 951 goes up on jackstands and ill start tearing down the top end. I am putting in a 60-1 HiFi and am just trying to figure out what other parts i will need / want to replace while its all apart.

So far this is what i have..

7x 10mm x 1.5 copper nuts (for both ends of downpipe)
4x 10mm x 1.5 studs (for turbo downpipe)
O-Ring - Turbo oil outlet
Turbo mount bolts
Exhaust crush ring - turbo inlet
2x Exhaust crush ring - turbo outlet and downpipe connection
Dipstick o-ring
AOS o-rings

Any other suggestions?

I know a 2pc downpipe should be on the list, but i simply cant afford it . I am also going to put in LR's turbo oil filter to replace the stock oil feed line. I figure a good idea to replace considering the original is 20 years old and the inner plastic line is probably brittle as hell.

Tom M'Guinn

I think the 4 turbo studs are M8's rather than M10's as you show above.
From my turbo R&R list:
O-Ring on top of turbo for oil line: 999 707 043 00

O-Ring below turbo for motor mount flange: 900 174 058 40

O-Ring for dipstick tube: 900174 044 40

O-Ring for fuel injectors: 944 110 901 00

Sealing Washers for turbo oil line banjo bolt (2): N 013 814 8

Crush ring between turbo and down-pipe: 944 111 205 03

Crush ring between down-pipe and cat converter: 944 111 205 03*

Crush ring between turbo and cross-over flange: 944 111 205 04

Intake manifold gaskets (4): 944 110 163 05

Expensive hose/pipe combo: 999 230 365 02 (pipe)

951 106 048 00 (hose)

Cheap turbo water hose/pipe combo: 951 106 055 00 (pipe)

951 106 248 00 (hose)

Darwantae951

You can buy a nice copper gasket for the down pipe to test pipe connection. I'd recommend it. (don't know if you already have one).

Tom seems to have all I can think of, and combined with your list, you should be set.

Techno Duck

I double checked the turbo studs and im pretty sure they are M10, can anyone confirm that?

I might have a copper gasket at the downpipe to catback connection but i will not know for sure until i start disassembly.

Lets all hope for a warm north eastern winter.. im going to be freezing my *** off out there! .

87944turbo

I would add O-Ring - Turbo oil inlet. Is this turbo wet or dry?

Also wanted to add that when I installed my 60-1, I had to do some creative grinding on the mount to allow the mounting holes to line up. Additionally,one of the bolts that secures the compressor housing to the back plate will most likely hit this mount when you have the compressor housing clocked properly. That particular bolt was already ground down on my turbo to compensate for this.



I may be telling you stuff you already know Jon, just want you to be prepared. Hope it all comes apart and goes back together smoothly for you.

gt37vgt

you guys are crazy most6 of that stuff is fine until you mess with it .
yeh M10 by 1.5 but i would recommend one of those 951 exhuast fasteners kits it has brass lock nuts for the entire lot replacement studs and those horrible 2 bolts holding the turbo down .

i think your effort and money would be better spent on changing every fluid tinting your windows or taking
or power coating stuff grey to match your wheels .

gt37vgt

oh the kit is on ebay

Spidey944

I have the full Rennbay turbo/exhaust hardware kit I will not be using if you are interested. LMK.

Tom M'Guinn

Just checked, you are correct -- M10. Sorry about that.

Techno Duck

Ben, thanks for the input. I always like to know what im getting into before hand so the info is much appreciated. The turbo is a wet type. I actually dont need the top oil feed o-ring because the LR turbo oil filter uses a specific flange and paper gasket. BTW, the 60-1 i am putting on has a #8 hotside, also from SFR. It was on Wormhole's track car and who i must thank for giving me first dibs on..not to mention also letting me pay him for it in two installments.. .



gt37, i plan to uses copper fasteners for both ends of the downpipe connection to make life easier if disassembley is ever needed..

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/me...egory_Code=FST

I wont need the hardware kit because other than the copper fasteners and studs, the only other thing i need are the two turbo mounting bolts which im going to just buy through LR. Everything else on my exhaust has been replaced with new hardware when i did my headgasket last year.

87944turbo

Sounds like your in good shape, have fun!

This might help in case you need any motivation [NZ's 60-1 HIFI dyno run (http://vr4.nitor.co.nz/files/dyno%20...che%20boy2.mpg)].

gt37vgt

Please excuse my stupid ranting I had skimmed over it and didn't even read you were changing the turbo out .....doh! my hecklers will be along shortly

gregeast

Don't have the part # but it's a great time to do the AOS seals while you have the turbo & the intake manifold out.

Techno Duck

Greg, i remembered those last night. Thanks for mentioning it though. I think i read somewhere a long time ago there is a trick with drilling a hole in the master cylinder heat shield so the lower AOS bolt can be removed without having to take the entire shield off. Ill have to figure that one out when i actually get it all apart. All in the sake of making life easier in the future.

Sunday is going to be 43* out and monday will be 54*.. so hopefully ill have most of the top end apart by then ready to start on the turbo removal.

Ben, what did NZ's car put down with the 60-1? I am hoping to be in the 300-315whp range at 15psi.

porschefig

:-) Nice and toasty then!
Sunday we're supposed to have a high of -2

(I'm just jealous that you're putting a new turbo on)