3.0L build documentary
#241
Rennlist Member
Can't go wrong w/ a 3.1L built right from Mr. White. What turbo are you thinking of running this time- I know it's from John but what stage- BB or a combination of?
#242
It's his Stage V. No BB, using a Garrett compressor housing and Turbonetics turbine housing. I had him modify it for quicker spool. Don't really like the on/off switch feel of how the car used to drive.
#244
Alright, more progress! Turbo is out, as well as starter and most heat shields. Exhaust is off the car and I'm pretty much down to start pulling the transmission. Anyone have any tips? I'm jumping feet first!
#245
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Transaxle is easy – just remember to disconnect the shift rod and move it forward. Oh yeah – an allen socket on a universal helps with the coupler!
#248
#249
Rennlist Member
I drop the transmission without dropping the cross-member - but I think it can be done both ways.
For the driveshaft to trans coupler, remove the allen head bolts all the way, then use a large prybar or screw driver to put the coupler rewards towards the transaxle.
Don't forget to unplug the speedo and reverse light wires.
When you undo the CV joints, first scrape the inside of each cheesehead (triple square) bolt with a little screwdriver or pick, then give each one a shot of brake cleaner. Then put your socket bit in. If it doesn't feel like the bit goes all the way in, tap it in with a hammer.
And, you might want to take the axles all the way out and repack all 4 CV joints.
For the driveshaft to trans coupler, remove the allen head bolts all the way, then use a large prybar or screw driver to put the coupler rewards towards the transaxle.
Don't forget to unplug the speedo and reverse light wires.
When you undo the CV joints, first scrape the inside of each cheesehead (triple square) bolt with a little screwdriver or pick, then give each one a shot of brake cleaner. Then put your socket bit in. If it doesn't feel like the bit goes all the way in, tap it in with a hammer.
And, you might want to take the axles all the way out and repack all 4 CV joints.
#250
I drop the transmission without dropping the cross-member - but I think it can be done both ways.
For the driveshaft to trans coupler, remove the allen head bolts all the way, then use a large prybar or screw driver to put the coupler rewards towards the transaxle.
Don't forget to unplug the speedo and reverse light wires.
When you undo the CV joints, first scrape the inside of each cheesehead (triple square) bolt with a little screwdriver or pick, then give each one a shot of brake cleaner. Then put your socket bit in. If it doesn't feel like the bit goes all the way in, tap it in with a hammer.
And, you might want to take the axles all the way out and repack all 4 CV joints.
For the driveshaft to trans coupler, remove the allen head bolts all the way, then use a large prybar or screw driver to put the coupler rewards towards the transaxle.
Don't forget to unplug the speedo and reverse light wires.
When you undo the CV joints, first scrape the inside of each cheesehead (triple square) bolt with a little screwdriver or pick, then give each one a shot of brake cleaner. Then put your socket bit in. If it doesn't feel like the bit goes all the way in, tap it in with a hammer.
And, you might want to take the axles all the way out and repack all 4 CV joints.
How important is it that the trans coupler be re-installed in the exact same position?
#251
Rocket Scientist
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You'll see when you get in there that there are two reliefs in the splined trans input shaft and TT shaft for the through bolts on the coupler. There is no need to mark it before removal, because it's obvious when you reassemble. If I were you, I wouldn't go through the hassle of removing the transmission "just to clean". Seems a bit ridiculous. It's going to get dirty right away again. I would just swap the axles and be done. And just so you know, the engine comes out with the turbo in place.
#252
Rennlist Member
#254