How to Connect Subwoofer to battery?
#1
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I am in the process of upgrading my stereo and acquired this low profile 8" amplified subwoofer (Soundstorm USS8). It is only 14"L x 10"W x 3" H. Will likely mount it in the rear passenger footwell partially under the passenger seat.
Installation seems relatively straight forward, however I am curious to know how people have connected the subwoofer to the positive terminal on the battery (pictures would be particularly helpful). Search has not provided what I am looking for.
Additionally, the unit has an integrated 15 amp fuse, but installation instructions say the following
"Connect an empty? fuse holder within 18" of the car battery, and run 8 gauge (or heavier) cable from this fuse to amplifier location. Then connect the fuse holder to the "BATT+" connection on the subwoofer rear panel."
This may seem like a dumb question, but should I also be using an inline 15 amp fuse in the holder, which appears to be empty otherwise?
Many thanks
Installation seems relatively straight forward, however I am curious to know how people have connected the subwoofer to the positive terminal on the battery (pictures would be particularly helpful). Search has not provided what I am looking for.
Additionally, the unit has an integrated 15 amp fuse, but installation instructions say the following
"Connect an empty? fuse holder within 18" of the car battery, and run 8 gauge (or heavier) cable from this fuse to amplifier location. Then connect the fuse holder to the "BATT+" connection on the subwoofer rear panel."
This may seem like a dumb question, but should I also be using an inline 15 amp fuse in the holder, which appears to be empty otherwise?
Many thanks
Last edited by fbgh2o; 11-12-2008 at 11:03 PM.
#3
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I used to be in the whole audio scene, so I had a few different subwoofer/amplifier combinations going on. But basically I just connected the main power cable straight to the battery terminal, kept the fuse close to that (I would say 6 inches or less), and then ran the cable through the firewall to a switch under the dash allowing me to shut off the amp if I wanted. Then from there the cable just ran under the carpet to the back area.
#4
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Dan, thanks for the idea. I do have the power seats and IIRC they are on a 30A fuse which would work.
Drift - the question that I have is "how" did you make the connection to the positive terminal? Is it a question of adding a wire to the harness terminal?
Drift - the question that I have is "how" did you make the connection to the positive terminal? Is it a question of adding a wire to the harness terminal?
#5
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Fergus,
Tap it straight to the battery.The circuitry under your seat is most likely not rated for continous duty, only intermittent. Run recommended gauge wire from your battery terminal (get an O-ring crimp fitting for your wire end, remove + terminal nut, slide on O-crimp, re-tighten nut) OR run 2 guage lower if you plan on potentially adding an amp later. This way you only have to do it once. And yes, fuse it...I am running 1/0awg (direct tap) with an inline 100amp fuse to a BATTCAP mounted in the passenger side rearwell to power 3 amps....
Tap it straight to the battery.The circuitry under your seat is most likely not rated for continous duty, only intermittent. Run recommended gauge wire from your battery terminal (get an O-ring crimp fitting for your wire end, remove + terminal nut, slide on O-crimp, re-tighten nut) OR run 2 guage lower if you plan on potentially adding an amp later. This way you only have to do it once. And yes, fuse it...I am running 1/0awg (direct tap) with an inline 100amp fuse to a BATTCAP mounted in the passenger side rearwell to power 3 amps....
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#6
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Agree - run heavy cable (repeat heavy) to the battery. The fuse stays out until AFTER you have everything connected. Check also whether you need a big capacitor across the subwoofer amp. Google subwoofer capacitor, you'll find good info. The capacitor supplies extra current during power surges (loud passages). Usually required on amps of 150 watts or so.
#7
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If you look behind your battery under the windshield hold down block, there is an existing hole in the firewall plugged by a black rubber plug. This exits out above and behind the glovebox. You should be able to get an 8 gauge wire through there.
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#9
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An important note is that the extra (necessary) recommended fuse holder (empty until final connections are made) by the battery is there to protect the positive wire from melting and starting a fire if the insulation wears through and shorts to chassis ground on its way from the battery to the amp/powered subwoofer. That's why the fuse should be as close to the battery as possible- where the wire between the fuse and battery terminal can't short to ground and cause a fire. The 15A fuse in the amp is there to protect the amp, not your car.
#10
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http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm
This site has everything you need to know about choosing the right size wiring, fuses, etc..
This site has everything you need to know about choosing the right size wiring, fuses, etc..